Replies

1. 
   Pondfish | Aug 03, 2005 09:55pm | #1

   Can't say I know much about "electric" nailers, unless you mean something like a Paslode cordless nailer (which is great!).  They tend to be expensive, but if you have money to convert into convenience, they're a great gun.

   By all means, do get a brad nailer.  A #16 that does 1/2"-2" should be adequate; I wouldn't go with a #18 for holding up cedar panels above your head.

   Finally, beadboard porch ceilings are traditionally painted robin's egg blue, in case you're interested...

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
1. 
   Yogi | Aug 03, 2005 10:16pm | #2

   Thanks, Paul-  I'm gleaning that brad nailers are not normally plugged into an electrical outlet?  And so, should I decide to skip a mortgage payment and buy a cordless one, I should think in terms of air?  Okay-

   The #16 you mention-  Is that finish nails it shoots?  Other kinds?  From our conversation you'd never guess I don't know anything about brad nailers, what?  I'm hoping to buy one that will serve various purposes, different projects-  A #16 would be good for a variety of applications?

   I won't be putting panels on the ceiling, but rather like 4" strips-  Does this make a difference in the model#? (#16)

   As for traditions, I view a lot of them (certainly not all) as old habits, arbitrary in nature and potentially problematic as time marches on, which it inevitably does-  In terms of painting the ceiling (or anything else), I always try to avoid having to paint a second or third coat, which pretty much precludes a first coat-

   Much obliged for your thoughts and your time-  It's a help-  Dave

1. 
   Pondfish | Aug 03, 2005 10:32pm | #3

   Dave -

   two good FWW articles on nailers are Jan/Feb 2001 "Nail Guns for Cabinetry" which talks about the differences between finish, brad, and pin nailers, plus staple guns.  The other is in Jan/Feb 2004 "Brad nailers" which compares several #18 nailers.

   Basically, a finish nailer drives finish nails that are used for carcase construction and larger work (they come in #15 and #16 sizes).  For what I think you want to do, this is probably more than needed.

   A brad nailer--which is what I think you need, if you are just putting up 4" strips of this cedar--shoots #18 brads and is best for attaching moldings, cabinet backs, bead board and other details.

   A pin nailer shoots #23 pins and is used for really fine work, like thin strips to hold in glass panes, and thin moldings. This is too small for your job.

    

   Most nailers are air powered, so you'll need a small compressor.  If you are growing a shop, get a compressor a bit larger than you need now (and try to find one that's quiet).

   I recently picked up a #18 nailer on sale from Grizzly for a mere $29.  It works fine for non-precise work, and I would suggest you do the same as an easy entry into the world of nailers.  Just one thing to consider is that the nailer you get shoots brads long enough to hold your trim panels into the ceiling.  You'll want something three times the thickness of your panel.

   nB: if you don't have access to old FWW issues, you can buy these articles on-line from the FWW site.  It helps support the magazine and boards like this one.

    Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005

1. 
   Yogi | Aug 04, 2005 07:36am | #4

   Paul-  Thanks, I'll look at the Grizzly gun-  But I think I'll need finish nails for this stuff?Looked to be about 1/2" thick-  No?

1. 
   Pondfish | Aug 04, 2005 03:16pm | #5

   I guess it's a question of whether you are doing some trim carpentry and attaching thin decorative molding, or putting up something more like sheathing.  What are you attaching the 1/2x4 strips to?  If studs, then I guess I would go with #16 finish nails.  But if it is to plywood, I would use a construction adhesive and tack it into place with 1-1/2" #18 brads every 8-12".  I'd be a little worried about the cedar splitting, which it has a tendency to do (so be sure not to shoot a nail too close to an edge). 

   Maybe the discussion group over at the FHB site would give you some more responses from better qualified carpenters.  Good luck, and I still recommend the FWW articles to get started with shopping for a nailer.Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005

2. 
   woodworker418 | Aug 04, 2005 05:58pm | #6

   I am in a similar situation and trying to determine which air compressor to purchase.  I would like to get one of the twin tank 2.hp compressors as this would allow to me do some spray finishing down the road in addition to the nailing i need to undertake currently.  i've looked into the roll air and the hitachi 2hp twin tank machines and both of these look good.  Does anyone have any experience with either of these or have any recommendations for other brands in this category?  thx much, t.

3. 
   Yogi | Aug 04, 2005 06:43pm | #8

   Tony- All I can contribute is I have a 3hp 30 gal Craftsman-  Don't get one of those-

4. 
   Yogi | Aug 04, 2005 06:40pm | #7

   Paul-  Thank you for your time & thoughts-  Much obliged-  Dave

2. 
   mudman | Aug 05, 2005 05:47pm | #9

   If it uses 16 ga. nails it is called a finish nailer. 18 ga. is a brad nailer.

   Mikeplease excuse my spelling.

1. 
   Pondfish | Aug 05, 2005 06:27pm | #11

   Got it.  And #23 nailers are pin nailers.

   I saw the PC combo packs, but I already have a small pancake (and extremely LOUD) compressor.  A HD Husky POS, I would never recommend it to anyone.  My next compressor will be one big enough to run a conversion HVLP system, and maybe an air sander.Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005

3. 
   mudman | Aug 05, 2005 05:57pm | #10

   Pick up one of those Porter Cable compressor/ gun combo packages at a big box store. hey are good deals, good guns, and good enough compressor. The "electric" units are not worth it. There are a couple that use a battery to run a little built in compressor; these are heavy and akward to use, especially overhead! The Palsodes use a combustable gas to create a small explosion to drive the nail. The system is well tested and works. But it is expensive requires fuel cells that have a shelf life, and once used are not good for reuse a week later. They also require more matinance ( cleaning) than pnumatic guns. They are also bulky and akward. I have never felt it ws all that much trouble to grab a small compressor and hose, for really small jobs I just bring a tank with no compressor.

   Mikeplease excuse my spelling.

2. 
   docotter | Aug 06, 2005 07:42am | #12

   I'd be a little nervous about brads (18 ga., or #18 as some have said) over time. Others have pointed out that you might use construction adhesive, in which case the brads would suffice to hold it up while the adhesive cured. But, standard practice would be finish nails (16 or 15 ga.).

   Having said that, there are other ways to apply nails than a nail gun, especially if you're on a budget, or maybe if you don't think you'll really have much call for that finish nailer in the future. For instance, you could use a hammer. If you do then you might mark the locations for, and start a couple of nails while on the ground, then go overhead. Alternately, if you already have a drill, there is a device called a "nail spinner" which is designed to literally spin a finish nail into the material. These are available at the big boxes, about $6 or $8. The nice thing about the spinner is that it is less likely to split the material, compared with pounding a nail in with a hammer, or even shooting it with a gun. Unfortunately, the spinner will not get the nail all the way in, so if you use a spinner you'll still need a nail set and hammer to finish the job.

   Personally, I've found that I don't use finish nails often enough to justify a gun, especially since I have a spinner. I'm not against nail guns -- I do have a brad nailer and palm nailer -- but for me, I've never been able to justify the expense given the sufficient alternative.

1. 
   Yogi | Aug 06, 2005 08:17am | #13

   Docotter-  Thank you-  All good thoughts-  I've had a few of 'em myself-  But I keep thinking of an 8X28 ceiling in 4" pieces-  It's about my neck and my rotorcuff and my lower back and........ like that-  Money isn't one of those things we have a lot of, but that's a lot of 4" wide pieces and ....... I won't repeat my anatomical wonders, but you probably get the picture-  I think I saw a PC finish nailer for about $90 on Amazon- That doesn't seem undreasonable, does it?

1. 
   papanick | Aug 12, 2005 08:12pm | #14

   Have you looked at the new Dewalt Cordless nailers?http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail_listing.asp?categoryID=1377

   Home Depot and most good tool houses will have them or be able to get them.

   They're pretty good at how they work. They use an internal counterweight system and really bang the nails in. The only ones I've seen are 16ga, which is perfect for your use, and pretty handy all around.

   If you can't justify going to an air-based system it would be the next best option.The older I get, the better I was....

1. 
   Yogi | Aug 12, 2005 09:19pm | #15

   Nope, I haven't seen them, but I'll look them up-  Thank you-

1. 
   pdxmike | Aug 12, 2005 09:32pm | #16

   I got to demo one of the DeWalt cordless finish nailers.  They do a real nice job but are 3 to 4 times as expensive as a PC 16 gauge nailer.  And the batteries never run down on air.

2. 
   Yogi | Aug 13, 2005 01:14am | #18

   Sounds a little out of my league-  I'll just be envious for a while!  Thanks

3. 
   Glaucon | Aug 12, 2005 11:06pm | #17

   I did the same job ~9 years ago on my back porch.  The previous owner had put up sheet rock on this screened in porch, with predictable results.  After I ripped out all the sagging, sodden rock, I put up a T&G western red cedar ceiling.  I used a PC 16g nailer attached to a compressor, leaving a 1" gap between the ceiling and the wall to allow for movement.  I cut a crown molding and coped it to cover the gap.  I also used cedar heating registers to allow for air circulation and permit access to electrical and plumbing fixtures.

   I didn't paint either.  I put on two coats of (?Olympic) clear stain/sealer- it's a ceiling so there is very little direct UV. I haven't touched it since and it looks fine.  The whole job took two weekends with a lot of coffee breraks thrown in...

   Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

   
1. 
   Yogi | Aug 13, 2005 01:19am | #19

   Yes, that looks like it-  So I guess a 16 ga will work for me-  Gunna have to be something from Amazon, I think-  They sell good names at a, sometimes, very reasonable price-  I haven't any electrical or plumbing goodies in that ceiling, but I wonder how necessary the vents might be?

1. 
   Glaucon | Aug 13, 2005 05:31am | #20

   As for the venting- it depends on where you live and what your roof layout is like.  I live in PA and my porch roof buts up against the main house.  I was concerned that if the attic space was not vented it would trap heat (and to a lesser extent moisture) and would create a freeze-thaw cycle that would lead to ice dams on the roof above.  Also, since the sheet rock had already failed in part because of moisture, venting the area made sense from that point of view as well.

   If you live in a more temperate area, ice dams (or ice damns as we used to say in New England) probably won't matter much but moisture could still be a problem.Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

1. 
   Yogi | Aug 13, 2005 09:28am | #21

   I live in No. Idaho-  All good thoughts-  Thanks for sharing-