Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Mar 29, 2012 07:08pm | #1

   MDF shelving

   "If I make another one, how would I ensure this doesn't happen again?"

   Use real wood?  ;-)

   In my view, MDF is not particularly fastener-friendly. It doesn't seem to grip fasteners of any kind in the same way real wood does. If you look at commercially-made shelving that uses an MDF base, they typically use metal ring and pin hardware that simply pulls the components together. One side of the hardware typically screws into a threaded insert.

   http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10517&site=ROCKLER

1. 
   roc | Mar 29, 2012 11:30pm | #2

   I can't understand why

   Ralph,

   Is this another nail in the coffin of the FINE Woodworking chat room ?  Perhaps the final frictional cohesive binder has ben driven ( or shot ) home.

   This could be a moment to be recorded and morned when we once a year visit this site just to remember the old days.

   March 29th

   PS:  I am working on a china hutch.  I have saved up some card board from work.  The only thing that is holding me back is I haven't decided whether to use the push through and bend over brass fasteners or get serious and buy a desk stapler and fold it open. I know . . . we are talking serious cash out lay here but I want to do this thing right this time.  I don't want anymore catastrophes.

   Shame about the Lalique collection.

   Any way . . .

   Will I need two stage filters for my respirator while stapling ?  I recently read an article on corrugated cardboard dust that has me positively petrified.

1. 
   RalphBarker | Mar 30, 2012 10:23am | #4

   Chuckle

1. 
   bones | Mar 30, 2012 01:02pm | #5

   chuckle # 2

   I got a kick out of that as well.  

2. 
   hammer1 | Mar 29, 2012 11:35pm | #3

   John, it's more likely the wood around the nail has shrunk. If you used construction lumber and then painted it with a water based paint, the surface of the paint will skin over and trap moisture underneath. Construction lumber and most lumber you might purchase at Home Depot, or similar suppliers, may contain a moisture content greater than 7% - 8%, which is preferable for furniture work. Being inside the wood will slowly dry out and shrink, the nails won't move but filler will get popped out. Starting with low moisture content lumber will limit the range of shrinkage but expansion will still be a problem. The difference is, shrinkage loosens joints and fasteners as pieces pull apart from each other. Unless your wood to MDF joint has come open, the pop will be due to shrinkage.

   You'll have to remove the popped filler, set any nails that aren't deep enough, re-fill and touch up the paint. It's possible that the same thing may happen again. Normal wood movement may squeeze out the filler. Nails and filler isn' the best way to build furniture and cabinetry. Nails aren't a good choice with MDF but if you used glue also, that should do what the nails won't. Most common woodworking glues require clamp pressure, nails won't always provide enough pull. On the next project, you may want to consider alternative construction methods and step up your game a bit.

1. 
   Westchester | Mar 30, 2012 06:40pm | #6

   nail pops

   I believe Hammer has it right  !   I would add that for filling nail holes under painted surface try bondo

   SA

3. 
   DonStephan | Apr 03, 2012 07:17pm | #7

   Brad nailer brads don't have a lot of resistance to withdrawal, likewise MDF.  If you want to continue using MDF, glue coated staples would resist withdrawal better.

4. 
   swannyww | Apr 05, 2012 10:34am | #8

   nails popping

   use longer brads and let the mdf sit for a while in the shop to adjust to inside moisture.  Senco 15 gauge come with adhesive on the nails, brads do not have adhesive, so you have to go deeper to gain the resistance.