I have a 2″ thick slab of birch that I envision as being a really neat Nakashima style end table. Some months ago I downloaded a plan as a pdf file from one of the magazine sites (I think) for just such a table. Unfortunately, the file I downloaded had a problem and the top third of the page was blank.
I’ve searched all over and cannot seem to find that plan. Anyone out there have any idea where it might be?
Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral.
Frank Lloyd Wright
Replies
I built the one pictured here using M&T joinery for the base pieces http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=2251706&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1&PHPSESSID
What sort of base did the plans your in search of use?
Timberwerks,
Gorgeous work! Much larger than what I intend and, undoubtedly, much nicer than I suspect I will finish with (good thing my wife loves me - everything I build is perfect in her eyes).
I've been studying my slab and trying to decide how to deal with some twisting and cupping without loosing too much thickness. I think the course I will follow is to rip it in half, flatten only the top, and rejoin the two halves with a contrasting spline. Does this sound like a workable solution?Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
Is your slab a live edge slab? If at all possible I would leave your slab in one piece and plane it flat, this add's to the beauty and I belive this is how George Nakashima would aproach it. Even if you need to plane down to 1-1/4" it will be enough thickness for a end table, and have great visual effect. The coffee table in the link I provided was in the area of 1-5/8" thick by 5' long 25" wide. The 1-5/8" thickness looked just right for the overall size.
As for the Nakashima book I suggest you order it from Amazon, great price and fast shipping. Also order the Nakashima catalog / design guide, it is $20.00 well spent http://www.nakashimawoodworker.com/index.htm
Keep posted, I really enjoy Nakashima inspired work. I have two more tables I am currently working on and a Bahut cabinet.
Dale
Yes. live edge (if I understand the question correctly) I'll try to post a picture tomorrow. In the mean time, attached is the "plan" I referenced earlier. This is where the idea for the spline came from.Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
I could see using a spline for a book matched top but for a single live edge top I think trying to flatten it as is would be a better choice. How much cup and twist is in the slab?
Let me take some more measurements and a couple of photos tonight - I'll try to post them tomorrow.Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
Timberwerks,
Here are the pictures of the slab as promised. The actual dimensions are 31.5" L x 12.75" W (widest) and 1.75" T. I've tried to show the most severe problems with the slab in the photos.
Your input would be very helpful. Maybe this particular slab is not a good choice for a table?Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
Judging from picture #1 I would cut of the end with the two knots. Then I would let the slab stabalize for a few more weeks and plane it flat. You have plenty of thickness for a nice end table and even with the knot end removed there should be plenty of length as well. Was this air or kiln dried? Do you know what the moisture content is now?
Dale
Air dried, about 2 years old - here in the high desert of Idaho things are really dry. (not uncommon to have less than 5% humidity during the summer) I've not put my meter on it yet, but 2 years in a desert shop is usually sufficient. ;o)
Interesting idea, cutting off the knot end. I'll give this some thought. Thanks.Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
Timberwerks,
Just to bring you up to date - I actually cut about 6" off the narrow end - there was a check at that end and my wife likes the knots. I then built a sled, shimmed it, and ran the whole thing through my planer. This is going to look good when it's done.
One question. I now need to fill some deep cracks within the knots. Most of what I've read says to use epoxy, but there are usually no details on what kind, where to purchase, etc. Can you help? How do you deal with color?
Thanks
RennieRegard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
I just use a quick set epoxy. It tends to dry near clear to having a slight amber tint. You can pick this up at your local hardware store. Post pics when it's done.
Dale
As requested! Here are the pictures. I may still make a change or two, but it's essentially done. I wanted to maintain as much thickness as possible, so the underside is still far from flat. This presented some problems in attaching the legs that were beyond my skill level. So I fashioned a mortise & tenon arrangement that allowed me to wimp out and use pocket screws to pull everything together. The finish is fresh and I will be doing a little more work on it.
I'm disappointed in the overall 'stance' of the table as it seems too tall. I'm thinking about some form of 'outrigger' for the rear leg. As it is, it will be next to a small sofa and not expected to hold anything other than a phone and the occasional single malt.
This was a good learning project for me. First time dealing with slabs and natural edges. I'll try this again someday!Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
I think it turned out very nice. Working with slabs does become addictive, I'm adding to my collection of slabs on a monthly bassis. Thanks for the pic's
Dale
Timberwerks & Ring,
Thank you for the kind words. Yes, there is a possibility of addiction. In fact, I have several smaller slabs from the same tree that my lovely and gracious wife has decided would make shelves that would be very complimentary to the table. They're not as thick, so I thought I would rip them down the middle to give me 1 straight edge to place against the wall. I'd use one of the techniques that allows for "invisible" attachment to the wall.
OK, back to the shop!Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
I think your slab is beautiful, but the important thing is that you've moved into new territory. Be careful, hunting for slabs can become addictive.
DR
I like it...very nice...
You are too kind. Thank youRegard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
If I can be so bold, I believe that a "plan" for such tables is almost sacreligious. Look at the slab you've got, mock up different ideas for the base, draw it from several angles, whatever you need to find "what feels right". The joinery will come afterwards, usually pretty straightforward. If you need some moral support to do it this way, read Nakashima himself, or even Krenov...
DR
Ring,
You are, of course, quite right and I stand appropriately chastised ;o)
I'm a bit of a novice and have tried my hand at 'design-build' with somewhat respectable results. Plan-wise, I was most concerned about methods for attachment of legs and the design thereof. Nakashima seems to have some very unique ideas on leg design.
You make a very good point about going to the master himself for guidance, so, it's of to Barnes & Noble for me at lunch time! Thank you.Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
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