Replies

1. 
   MrSQL | Feb 05, 2005 07:56am | #1

   Hello,

   I would recommend a film finish if you are into low maintenance; no stain (except "spot" stain sap wood).  I've used brushed on laquer, but it didn't build up enough thickness and wore out in a few years.  I've also used brushed on water based polyeurethane; that worked pretty well.  Cherry will darken by sunlight, under laquer.  In my experience it did not darken much under the poly. 

   If you don't mind maintaining the finish, an oil finish would look great (tung oil or linseed oil).  Fanz Klause had a nice FWW article some years back on kitchen cabinets that were oiled.  They looked great.

    

   Roger <><

    

2. 
   BArnold | Feb 05, 2005 11:47am | #2

   Dave,

   I've done quite a fair amount of work with cherry -- furniture for our house and family.  For finishing, I start with boiled linseed oil and naphtha in a 1/1 mix.  Being in Florida, I usually do this in the Sun for two reasons: it heats the wood and the oil; it starts the coloring process of the cherry.  The oil will soak in and then leach out a bit depending on the density of the wood in different areas of the board.  I wipe over it every few minutes with a clean rag to keep the surface even.

   I then hand rub a couple of coats of blo/naphtha/polyurethane in a 1/1/1 mix to seal the wood and work a bit more oil into it.  After that, if it's a piece that a drink might placed on, I'll top coat it with polyurethane for protection; otherwise, I'll build up more coats of the hand rubbed mixture to get the appearance I want.

   Polyurethane will not keep the cherry from developing its natural patina.  Some film finishes might slow down the process a bit due to UV blockers, but the cherry will eventually develop regardless.

   Regards,

   Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
   Click Here if you're interested in a good,inexpensive website host.

   ---

   Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.

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3. 
   Paul_Snyder | Feb 05, 2005 05:39pm | #3

   Dave,

   For kitchen and bath cabinets it's best to use a fairly durable finish that will hold up well.  If you plan to spray the finish, what are you open to using if not lacquer? For example, how about a durable water-base finish? If you're planning to apply the finish by hand (e.g., brush or wipe), then a varnish (including polyurethane) is a good choice.

   For a natural look, don't use a stain.  Glaze can be an option, but stain changes the wood too much. There are a number of options based on whether you're spraying or applying by hand as well as the look you want.  Take a look at the finishes at this link and see if it gives you a better idea of what you're after - http://www.furniturefinishwizard.com/cherry.htm - and then re-post with how you'll apply the finish.

    

    

   Paul
   Website

1. 
   BigDave1 | Feb 05, 2005 11:09pm | #4

   Paul

   Thanks for the info. I went to the link and read the article and came away with an idea that I want to try: that is to do a wash coat and then some color followed up with varnish(I think). I won't get around to trying this for a few weeks but will let you know my results. I have tried lacquer before with little success but am afraid of the volatility as I don't have a spray booth.

   Thanks

   BigDave1

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Feb 06, 2005 02:55am | #5

   That's a favorite finish of mine on cherry Dave. I use a couple variations;

   Option 1

   Sand to 150 or 180 and remove the dust.

   Seal the wood with a wiped coat of Waterlox Original sealer.

   Let dry for a day and then sand smooth with 320 grit. Follow with maroon scotchbrite to remove sanding scratches.

   Wipe on a coat of glaze (you can use a thick gel stain like WoodKote or Bartley) and wipe off the excess. A little goes a long way.

   Let the glaze dry at least for a day and then seal with a coat of shellac. Use a grade of shellac that gives you the color you want. Use dewaxed shellac if you'll use polyurethane over it.

   Let the shellac dry for 4 hours and then scuff sand with maroon scotchbrite. Use 400 grit if you have dust nibs.

   Apply 2-3 coats of varnish over the shellac, sanding between coats with 320 or 400 grit to smooth. Use the scotchbrite before the last coat.

   Option 2

   The oil in the Waterlox does a nice job of popping the figure in the wood, but you may not like the mottled appearance. If so, use shellac to seal the wood instead and follow the rest of the steps otherwise.

   Orange or blonde shellac both look good on cherry for both the sealer and the barrier coat after the glaze.

   Paul S
   Website

4. 
   biosf1 | Feb 06, 2005 08:49am | #6

   I'm a selfemployed Furniture builder, and I just finished two end table made of Michigan cherry and wanted a natural look with the grain , without changing the natural color but something that would bring out the grain . I spray ed it with Golden pecan minwax. For my top coat I use a hard finish for table tops from M.L. Campbell Called ( Magnalac ) precatalyzed Lacquer. Find it only at commercial suppliers. I like it cause it dries quick and builds up with only two coats, sand between coats with 220 dry silicon sand paper or 320grit, and cost less than Deft.per gal.

   Good luck !