Replies

1. 
   Knotscott | Jun 25, 2007 07:47pm | #1

   The MLCS website has some free instructions for setting up a lock miter bit:

   http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/katbt9.htm

2. 
   byhammerandhand | Jun 26, 2007 01:39am | #2

   Another way (if your leg isn't too huge in cross-section) is to buy thicker stock and cut the legs so that an annual ring runs from one corner to the opposite corner.

   With a long grain glue joint, you don't really need a biscuit to add strength. If you don't the the biscuit just right, it will create, not help, alignment problems. That said, most biscuit joiners I've seen have a 45 degree fence or setting.

3. 
   YesMaam27577 | Jun 26, 2007 07:02pm | #3

   Two points:

   A hollow leg will noty be an issue, so far as its strength is concerned.

   And, I've seen hundreds of pieces of craftsman furniture from the original craftsman period. The vast majority of legs (table and other) were milled from a single piece of stock -- so that the rays show on only two faces.

    

    

    

    

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.

4. 
   oldusty | Jun 27, 2007 08:23am | #4

         Hi Velo ,

                Typically a core is made to fill the hollow up . The core is usually a secondary wood , Pine , Alder maybe Poplar . With the hollow being filled and made solid it will make for better joints in corners and for any aprons as well as corner blocks . It's true on end the hollow leg will certainly support the table but would have no guts to it so to speak .

       You can cut the corners on a 45° angle and glue them up without any biscuits or splines .I prefer to rabbet the corners of 2 sides so that maybe only a 1/4" shows . Also you can vee grove each joint and each non joint so they all  look the same .Still make a core to fill the hollow .

          imo the filled hollows will add much structural integrity .

                    good    luck                    dusty

5. 
   Senomozi | Oct 25, 2007 04:45pm | #5

   Hello Velo,

   There are a couple FWW articles relevant here.  One is in the March/April 2003 issue where Scot Gibson presents four ways to achieve what you are after.  In an older article (Nov/Dec 1996) Patrick Nelson shows a method for making Stickley legs using a lock miter bit.

   I personally just completed a mission coffee table and used the veneering method presented by Gibson.  You really cannot see the edge of the veneer and don't have to worry about having a hollow leg where you want to mortise for the aprons.  I can share more details about the the method I used if you want me to.

   Hope this helps

1. 
   velomark | Oct 25, 2007 05:38pm | #6

   Thanks for the info.  I would be very interested in hearing more about the method you used.  I going to start work on the legs sometime next week.

   Thanks

    Cheers,

   Velo

1. 
   Senomozi | Oct 25, 2007 10:01pm | #7

   Hello again Velo,

   Below is the procedure I used to make the legs for my mission coffee table.  For the sake of argument let's assume we're talking about a 2 inch-square leg:

   Mill each leg blank 2" x 1 3/4", an inch or so longer than its final length.  Make sure the ray flecks appear on the faces of the blank that are 1 3/4" wide, not the other way around.

   The next step is to mill 8 veneer strips, roughly 2 1/4" wide by 1/4" thick, with the ray flecks showing on the 2 1/4" wide face.  The length of the strips should be equal or slightly longer than the leg blank, which is already an inch or so longer than the final length.  The strips are oversized in order to make the subsequent glue up and final dimensioning simpler.  I recommend making the strips from the same plank used for the legs so color/grain matches as good as possible.

   The method you use to mill the strips really depends on the tools you have available and the stock you have.  I have a band saw and I think it is the best and safest tool for the job because we're talking about ripping through thick, hard wood.  The important point is to have strips that are perfectly smooth on one of their faces.

   Glue a veneer strip on each side of the leg black.  The 2 1/4" wide face of the veneer strip mates with the 2" wide face of the leg blank, giving you about an eighth of an inch overhang on each side, which will be removed later.  There are two critical things for this glue up to be perfect.  First, make sure the mating faces are free of mill marks.  Second, use cauls and lots of clamps to ensure pressure is applied on the entire face of the veneer strips.  The Dec 2007 issue of FWW has an excellent article on clamping methods.

   After about an hour remove the clamps then plane down to final dimension (2 inches) the veneered faces of the leg blank.  Make sure you plane both sides of the leg fairly equally so you end up with a ~1/8" veneer on both sides.

   Remove the overhang (caused by the fact the strips are 1/4" wider than the legs) using a flush cutting router bit on the router table or using a hand plane.

   Crosscut your leg to final dimension

   Hope this helps

    

          

1. 
   velomark | Oct 25, 2007 11:36pm | #8

   Excellent!  Thanks again. Cheers,

   Velo

2. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 26, 2007 02:28am | #9

   Patrick Nelson shows a method for making Stickley legs using a lock miter bit.SMART guy! That bit is wonderful if set up properly.. Just be sure you have the 'right' side of the wood stick facing out.. OK so you need a good router table and router to 'spin' that bit. You can make the leg hollow and glue in a top and botton 'filler'..Try it you will like it!