I have a bedroom set, made by Lane, in 1959. It is walnut veneers, with oak trim. The original finish is basically intact, but has been dissolved by the dirt/oil grunge on some of the edges and drawer faces. The head board has lost almost all of the finish to the grunge. The previous owners seem to have waxed it incessantly and smoked. I have wiped it down with a cloth dampened in a slightly soapy solution and gotten most of the grunge off, and have gone over it with a cloth wetted with mineral spirits, five or six time, and keep getting more wax off. I’m pretty sure there is still more on the surface, because it keeps drying to a haze, that buffs out nicely.
There is enough damage to the finish, that I won’t be able to touch it up. What can I use to strip it for refinishing, that will not lift the veneers, or take the oxidization tone off the oak?
Replies
try denatured alcohol..
Won't lift veneers or leave a mess but if the finish is shellac it will wipe right off..
The finish is almost certainly lacquer. Removing wax may take quite a bit of elbow grease, and copious amounts of mineral spirits. I prefer naptha since it is a lighter material and leaves less oily residue. Application with some steel wool might help cut the wax and grunge.
You can remove the finish with lacquer thinner (it will act similarly to a reamalgamator) or you can use a methylene chloride stripper for faster, more complete stripping. If the oxidation tone on the oak is the natural effect of time on the wood these chemicals won't change it, but if it is part of the finish applied by Lane stripping will remove it. With either stripping material you need gloves and lots of ventilation and/or an organic chemical mask.
If you really want to strip it, try the forementioned solvents.
Chances are it may just need cleaning, in which case it will not take copius amounts of elbow grease or volatile sovent. Use household ammonia and water, the wax will easily be removed.
Expert since 10 am.
The grunge ate through the exisitng finish. After cleaning off the grunge with a cloth dampenend in a very mild soap and water solution, I have some extensive areas on several of the pieces that are bare wood.
The wax/polish/cigarette smoke build up is so thick you can barely see the grain. I've owned other pieces from this series from Lane, and know that the wood grain should be clearly visible. I can keep wiping it down with mineral spirits until I get the wax off, and that should get it to the point the grain is visible again. But I still would have the bare wood areas. The original finish had a slight gold/brown tone from the factory, I think they were trying to get the look of an amber shellac.
I'm color blind so trying to blend up something that will match the existing is impossible for me. Hence, the desire to strip it, and finish it with danish oil, and shellac, which is my "normal" finish. Once it is stripped and ready for finish, I'll consider doing a sprayed laquer in the booth at work. I never felt like the hassles of spraying laquer without a booth, but the new employer has one I can use on nights and weekends, so I might give it a try.
I'm concerend that agressive solvents may effect the glue holding the veneer on. But I have an end table from the same series, that I can experiment on. So I will try it first, and see what happens.
jigsnfixtures,
Alcohol will seldom affect glue while lacquer thinner certainly will.. however lacquer thinner can be wiped on carefully enough that it won't soak thu to the glue usually..
All production furniture from the 40's through the 70's were finished with NC lacquer. Most of which is alcohol resistant. As mentioned Xylene or VM&P Naphtha is the preferred de-waxing/de-greasing solvent. Xylene is slower drying so it will "work" longer and will produce less hazing. Wash with a soaked rag, let set, wipe off with clean rags or paper towels. Repeat several times. As with all solvents ware gloves and a respirator and follow fire safety procedures.
If the lacquer is still hard and not gummy it will clean. If the finish is soft (deteriorated), surface grime is often embedded into the finish itself. Cleaning this will also remove the lacquer with the grime. Getting a "haze" after solvent cleaning is normal with faster evaporating solvents. The quick evaporation causes a cooling effect that produces a condensation of the moisture in the air. Clean until the wipe-off rag has little or no color change. Work on a small section in a bad area to see if it can be cleaned successfully. If your test area cleans well and has a hard finish under the grime the lacquer can be restored. Stripping will not be necessary. If the lacquer is soft its best to remove it and start over.
Some times if faster to just strip it from the start if the finish is super grimy. The time it takes to clean off the gunk and then do the touch-up can be as long or a lot longer than strip and refinish. Its an item by item judgement call. After doing several items each way you will get a better feel on just what to do.
THE
THUMBNAIL TEST
A piece can look good and
need refinishing, or look bad, and a
touch-up & clear-coat will restore it. The
beauty of a finish is the secondary concern
of a Master Finisher. The purpose of a
finish is primarily to protect the wood from moisture
changes that can destroy the piece. To
refinish or touch-up? An easy way to tell
is the thumbnail test. Simply try
scratching the surface finish with your
thumbnail where it won't be noticed (a
corner or edge will do). If the finish is
aged or soft, it will mark, flake or scrape off
easily. Just as you would not paint over
old flaking house paint, a touch-up and
clear coat will not work over an old soft,
or deteriorating finish. Refinishing will
be required to give the wood the protection
it needs and return it to its original
beauty.
Steve Nearman
Fredericksburg, VA
Furniture Restoration Service
Quality restorations and repairs for over 35 years!
(540) 371-5566
http://FurnitureRepair.net/
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