Replies

1. 
   BDuck11 | Oct 28, 2003 04:01pm | #1

   It sounds as though the fence is misaligned, which means it's no longer parallel to the blade, and it's pinching the stock on the outfeed side as you rip. That sort of problem is dangerous because it can cause kickback. It's fairly easy to fix. Check your owner's manual for advice on how to go about it.

2. 
   4DThinker | Oct 28, 2003 05:07pm | #2

   I'll second the thought about the fence no longer parallel to the blade.  Some saws let you adjust the motor/blade mount.  Some let you adjust the fence.  My guess is that one or the other got kicked slightly off parallel with the other.

   And since the in-side of the blade has been burning, it's probably getting a bit of pitch/sap build-up on that side.  Once you get things parallel be sure you clean the blade.  Oven cleaner works for us.

   4DThinker

3. 
   Len | Oct 28, 2003 05:18pm | #3

   I agree. You should be able to adjust the fence. I was taught to set the fence not exactly parallel but so there was about 1/64th or less away from the blade at the back end of the fence.

   Uh oh.... I'm sure I'm going to get spanked for this....(lol)

   Len

4. 
   IMERC | Oct 28, 2003 05:32pm | #4

   Check blade parrell to the miter slot and then the fence to the blade and miter slot. Consult your owners manuel for the how to.

    

   Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....

5. 
   scooter1 | Oct 28, 2003 06:15pm | #5

   The cheap way to do this is to simply put an adjustable square on the miter slot and measure. Raise the blade. Measure at the front, and adjust the square to the blade body, not the tips. Compare this to the back of the blade. I am not familiar with the Rigid saw, but presumably one has to loosen the trunions below the table to make this adjustment. Once you have your blade parallel to the slots, then adjust the fence.

   Rigid is a very very low end saw, and you are lucky you got two years before this went out of alignment. You should be checking the saw for square, called a tune up about once a year or every 6 months or so.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

1. 
   mudman | Oct 31, 2003 05:44am | #10

   Ridgid is not a very low end saw!! It is one of the best contractor saws on the market. The trunions are relatively beefy, the table is flat, and the fence is as good as any other contractor saw. Now, it does not compare to a powermatic or unisaw, but it costs 1/4 either of them.

   mike

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 31, 2003 06:29am | #11

   I was always underwhelmed by the Rigid TS, but just got a look at the new one that's part of this recent flock of new Rigid tools -- much, much better!  Very tempting (if I didn't already have a saw -- whew!).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   scooter1 | Oct 31, 2003 09:43pm | #12

   Thats your opinion. I used one on a job site 2-3 years ago, and found it noisy, out of whack, and even when we trued the trunions, didn't stay in line for more than a week. The arbor diameter was too thick, making the use of Dados or changing blades impossible, and we had to take a thousandth or so off that arbor with emery cloth, and then the nut rattled. The switch was funky, and pulley's weren't aligned either. Maybe it was just a bad apple, but in my opinion, Rigid saws are junk, like everything else Rigid makes. I have never seen a decent tool that the Company makes that has more than 2 moving parts. For an extra $150-200 you can get a Delta and enjoy their customer service.

   But you you like yours, thats all that matters.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

1. 
   mbiker1999 | Nov 02, 2003 08:39pm | #14

   I'm not sure you can generalize about Ridgid tools like that.  I've got a 13" portable planer that I like very much.  I've run a full 13" of hard maple through it and it did a nice job.  Plenty of power and no snipe.  I guess it's like everything else,  you'll find lemons in all manufactures lines of tools.

   just my 2 cents.

   -Bill

1. 
   scooter1 | Nov 03, 2003 07:56pm | #15

   If Rigid is not the worst in bunch, what is? What are the real stinkers out there? Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

   Edited 11/3/2003 12:29:48 PM ET by Boris Yeltsin

2. 
   forestgirl | Nov 03, 2003 08:14pm | #16

   BY:  You need to proof your sentence.  It doesn't make any sense.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 04, 2003 04:52am | #17

   Boris

      I bought the newer Ridgid 1550 DP after researching almost every drill press on the market for a month. My neighbor has a Ridgid thickness planer he has run tens of 1000's of linear feet through over a 3 year period. He builds out-door funiture for a living. At this point we are both totally satisfied with the machines and there comparison to others.

      What specific problems with these two machines should we expect? Perhaps we missed something in what we felt was pretty through research before we bought them.

   Regards...

   sarge..jt

4. 
   forestgirl | Nov 04, 2003 09:12am | #18

   Sarge, Sarge -- you're my hero :0)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

6. 
   forestgirl | Oct 28, 2003 06:50pm | #6

   Some additional thoughts:

   • Besides the fence being not-parallel to the blade, your splitter could also be out of alignment with the blade.  I've had that produce burning a number of times.  You'd need to check both the alignment with the blade and whether it's 90*s to the table.
   • Rather than setting your fence slight kicked out at the rear, I'd recommend using a "short fence" attached to your main fence when ripping.  It's a great way to help reduce kickback, and doesn't prevent you from swapping the fence to the other side of the blade when you need to.
   • Oven clean is not recommended by our Freud expert (Charles M.) for cleaning carbide-tipped blades.  Simple Green works great and is safe for you and for the blade.  Others use 409 cleaner or kerosene.  Lots of options besides lye.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/28/2003 11:51:28 AM ET by forestgirl

7. 
   jeffreysherow | Oct 28, 2003 07:13pm | #7

   I agree, it sounds like an alignment problem. 

   I own the Rigid saw and know that you can align both the blade and the fence.  First align the blade to the miter slot.  The bolts are 1/2 or 9/16, can't remember off-hand, and there are a couple up front and a couple in back.  Its tedious because of the position of the bolts but take your time and make sure get get as close as possible.  Use the most accurate measure you have (dial gauge would be best).  Also make sure you pick and use a mark on the blade for both the front and rear measurement to prevent variation in the blade from throwing things off.  Second align the fence to the miter slot.  That requires an allen key for four screws that are on the top of the front of the fence.  This part is very quick and easy.

   Good luck.

8. 
   RANGERP75R | Oct 28, 2003 07:17pm | #8

   JPAR12

      After checking blade alignment to slot and fence, try this if you wish. I use the Euro short fence and never get the problem. The rear of fence ends about 1/2" front center of blade creating a "free zone" from blade center on. The stock has been cut when the rear of stock has cleared the 4th or 5th front down teeth, depending on blade size.

     Clamp a temporary square piece of stock on the face of your long fence to the description above. Run a piece of stock through. If no burn, you have pin-pointed the rear of fence as mis-aligned causing a pinch and potential burning and kick-back.

   Good Luck...

   sarge..jt

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/28/2003 12:20:01 PM ET by SARGE

9. 
   jeffreysherow | Oct 30, 2003 08:59pm | #9

   just happened to notice the very good on-line article on how to tune a tablesaw.

   http://www.shopnotes.com/main/article-dialindicator.html

10. 
    beck4000 | Nov 02, 2003 05:03pm | #13

    Check your manual, it  shows you how to set up your Fence properly.. the(fence) must be square...and DON;T use OVEN CLEANER it wrecks the surface on Carbbide

    blades...

    hope this helps you..

    Beck

11. 
    BG | Nov 04, 2003 03:02pm | #19

    Jpar,

    I use the dial indicator to measure the consistancy of fense to miter, blade to miter, etc.  One thing I found was that about 2-4" past the blade the plastic of the fense stuck out about 15-25 thousands....I have a shop fox classic fense on my grizz 1023s.  I took off the sides of the fense and removed quite a bit of saw dust.  I was going to flip/exchange the sides because I thought the problem may be in the un-flatness of the plastic....however, I noticed the plastic has been shimed with tape...it may open up a new can of worms that I don't know how to deal with. It appears to be running cleaner and better.  However, if I have to cut a bunch of slats for an A&C piece I think I'll use a short fense, as Sarge describes, just to make sure things stay clean...