Replies

1. 
   bilyo | Jan 01, 2022 12:14am | #1

   I think that it is probably a good idea. All of the old furniture that I've seen (and some newer) with veneered tops also had veneer on the other side as well. But, for what it may be worth (probably not much) I built a chest of cherry 10-15 years ago with cherry veneer on the front only. No problems so far. I'm not recommending that you do it too.

2. 
   esch5995 | Jan 01, 2022 01:18am | #2

   Absolutely. You are asking for trouble with only one side veneered. You could get lucky that every drawer front is perfectly stable and unstressed and your drawer is assembled in a way that it is capable of resisting the forces the imbalance the single layer of veneer causes, but I personally would not take the chance.

3. 
   rob_ss | Jan 01, 2022 04:00am | #3

   I too have often wondered this and cannot see how a balance veneer would do anything.
   What, functionally, is the difference between what you describe and 3/4 inch solid stock? If it was a bent lamination there would be no talk of a balance veneer after all.
   I know what is said on this matter, and everyone has horror stories, but then those also happen with balance veneer or in solid timber. Perhaps the warpage sans balance veneer is a post hoc ergo propter hoc fallacy?
   What bothers me is the lack of real evidence. Of opinion there is much, of anecdote plenty, but actual trials-not so much.
   For me, I would apply balance veneer if the substrate were thin or low quality but otherwise not. We fix false fronts to drawers after all...

1. 
   john_c2 | Jan 01, 2022 07:20am | #5

   I'd love to see an actual study, rather than anecdote. Galileo, rather than Aristotle.

4. 
   jake_w | Jan 01, 2022 07:01am | #4

   If the grain direction on the veneer is the same as the substrate, you don't need a balancing veneer. I never use a balancing veneer on solid drawer fronts and I haven't had a problem. I suspect the dovetails aid in keeping things flat if it does have a tendency to warp. Steve Latta did the same on his federal-style table.

   A balancing veneer is needed on thin plywood and MDF for sure, every time I have tried to save myself some time and money, I have been burned with warping. For thicker plywood and MDF, I use it more out of fear that it will warp and I will waste more money/time.

   Good luck on your project

5. 
   john_c2 | Jan 01, 2022 07:22am | #6

   I've never done a single layer of veneer -- I don't veneer much. But I laminate two layers of wood often, with no warping issues. Pine and pine, pine to cherry, etc. Never any issues.

6. 
   anwoodworks | Jan 02, 2022 05:20pm | #7

   It may not be necessary, but it is definitely best practice to veneer both sides with the same thickness veneer with grain going in the same direction on each face. Do both sides at the same time if possible, or as close together as possible. I've seen many antiques that have fared okay veneered on only one side, but plenty that have warped substantially. It's a pain to veneer both sides, but it's much more of a pain to work with badly warped stock.

   In my experience it has less to do with the veneer itself and much more to do with the glue swelling the substrate and then shrinking as it dries. A balancing veneer isn't necessary with epoxy or contact cement because they don't add water to the substrate or shrink as they dry. Generally veneering both sides is necessary with water based glues.

1. 
   rob_ss | Jan 02, 2022 10:03pm | #10

   I too have seen this said. What about simply keeping the workpiece in clamps until dry (say 2-3 days?) - If it is ok once dry, will it move? any insight welcome...

1. 
   anwoodworks | Jan 03, 2022 09:51am | #13

   I’ve not tried leaving it clamped until it totally dries, but it is best to keep it in clamps until you are able to veneer the back side.

7. 
   gulfstar | Jan 02, 2022 06:38pm | #8

   18th and 19th century veneered furniture did not have plywood or mdf substrate so to answer the OP’s question, now that I know what OP means, I went to my reference book to look at how they built or reproduced high end furniture in Europe of the Louis 15 and later styles. They in fact veneered both sides of the solid wood core. I then taught of my other reference, James Krenov and in the chapter ‘’ Real ‘’ veneer of his impractical cabinetmaker book, found that he also veneered both sides of the solid wood core he made. I would do the same.

1. 
   rob_ss | Jan 02, 2022 10:09pm | #11

   It is indeed hard not to do what the old masters did.
   In medicine there was a time when Galen's anatomy ruled and students would be in trouble if they said the old master was wrong because Galen literally wrote the only book on human anatomy. Based on studies of animals, mostly...
   I would love to see a quality study on this subject - perhaps FWW could do this. I'd even be happy to sponsor it a bit, just out of curiosity.
   @Ben Strano - interested?
   I watch a LOT of antique restoration youtube and don't often see inside veneer, but then it is not often something needing repair!

8. 
   jfsksa | Jan 02, 2022 07:20pm | #9

   I think we are in a situation here that comes up fairly often. There's a "this is the best way to do it" rule and then there is the "but wait, my situation is different" situation. One camp says to always follow the general rule and the other camp says use your judgement and bend the rules if your situation allows it. Are your drawer fronts dovetailed or have other methods of mechanical fastening? If so, I'd omit the veneer backing, but I'm a contrarian.

9. 
   jharveyb | Jan 02, 2022 11:20pm | #12

   ANWoodworks is right about not using water based glue. Years ago I glued 1/8" curly maple on 3/4" plain maple on one side only using Titebond yellow glue, and got immediate cupping, that didn't go away after the moisture evened out.

   It seems to me that gluing cherry veneer to solid cherry makes a piece just like solid wood. A lot of the antiques, they are using core wood that is cheaper (often softer like poplar). To make it work well, they often glued thick veneer cross grain or diagonal grain before putting on the face veneer. But the veneer and core stock were very different woods. In this situation, balancing the front and back were important, if not essential.
   The other thing to think about is how your cherry core stock is cut. If it is very flat sawn, or with heartwood and sapwood, it may cup whether you put a veneer on it or not. If it does and you've only veneered one side, it will be hard not to blame the lack of a back veneer, tho that might not have caused it. For stability, rift sawn or quarter sawn core stock will work much better. Let us know how you do.

10. 
    fridayrack | Jan 03, 2022 11:46pm | #14

    I've never done a solitary layer of facade - - I don't facade much. Yet, I cover two layers of wood regularly, with no distorting issues. Pine and pine, pine to cherry, and so on Never any issues.

11. 
    Pali | Jan 04, 2022 08:28am | #15

    Thanks, everyone, for weighing in with great observations and advice. So. . . .I've decided to not add balancing veneer theorizing that removing 1/16" from the core cherry and then replacing it with 1/16" balancing veneer from the very same board, contributes little, especially since dovetailing should help stabilize the fronts. A couple of the panels are flat sawn so I will keep my fingers crossed for twenty years and then update you as part of a longitudinal study!