I’m getting ready to make a new plane out of cocobolo and would like to hear from someone who has experience at gluing this oily wood up with success.
I’ve Goggled info for a few days and everyone has different suggestions, but few have had any real experience that I could tell anyway. One site, for luthier’s, was no different. Some swore you had to wash down the glue surfaces with acetone prior to glue up. Others used isopropyl alcohol while others used nothing at all.
Any suggestions or comments will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Phillip
Replies
Dalbergia's tend to be oily, so it is recommended that you wash the mating surfaces with either l/thinner or acetone just prior to gluing as to remove any oily residue. glue with epoxy, but i wouldn't apply epoxy to any joints, so as they can be taken apart at a later date if any repairs are ever required. If you epoxy joints then consider that the object is a throw away if ever damaged
ron
Thanks, Ron.
I forgot to note the glue(s) that I intended to use for glue up. Going back to my research, I saw that some folks use plain old yellow glue, to Gorilla glue and others did use epoxy as you noted. My choice was going to be Gorilla glue, but I have fresh epoxy as well.
I do not want this plane to come apart on me.
Thanks again for your help.
Phillip
your welcome. I am not a great fan of epoxy, but there are places where it does a superior job
ron
Glue for cocobolo
Phillip, I took a class at WoodCraft 3 or 4 years ago and we made hand planes out of cocobolo. The cocobolo was cleaned with acetone and Gorilla Glue applied prior to assembly. It was a pain to clean up but worked well. If you decide to use Gorilla Glue, keep plenty of acetone handy.
Steve Pippins
Great news!
Steve,
Thanks so much for your post. Just the info I was searching for: Cocobolo, Gorilla glue and wooden planes. Life is good.
To be bloody honest here, I have had this cocobolo laying around my shop for years. I got a 'deal' when I bought it and thought I could use it in some of my boxes, but soon realized that it was a pain to work with. I developed no rashes or anything of that nature, I just felt it was not that special. It is knock-out 'purty', but compared to other wood I have been lucky enough to work with, it just didn't cut it for me. I'm off topic, I know.
Anyway, I thought it would make a righteous 10" plane. I recently purchased an A2 steel 2" plane iron from David Finck and thought the wood and the iron would be a good combination for my new plane. It would also give the cocobolo a good purpose for being in my shop. Ha.
Do you have any photos of your plane or the class you took at WoodCraft? If so, I'd like to see them.
I sincerely appreciate your post.
Phillip
Pictures
Phillip, I do not have any pictures of the plane but can take some and post them next week. I am out of town over the holiday weekend. It seems that the plane is 9" long with 2" Hock blade but will have to check to make sure. We did not take pictures during construction.
Steve Pippins
Cocobolo plane - Gorilla Glue
Phillip, here are the photos of the cocobolo plane. The iron is an 1 3/4" Hock A2.
Steve
Awesome plane!
Steve,
Sorry for the delay in responding to your post. I've spent a few days harvesting some fallen trees in our area. The recent storms have unfortunately toppled some very beautiful trees, but that's Mother Nature for you.
Back on topic: Steve, that is one sweet plane. I can almost feel it in my hands as it 'swooshes' along taking those .001" gossamer slices. Nice indeed. The cocobolo you used is very nice as well. My cocobolo is not that nice, IMO.
That button at the back - you press it to open the trunk? Kidding, of course.
Did you add an insert ahead of the throat in the sole? Perhaps cocobolo is dense enough that this is not necessary. I always do this because for me at least, it makes fabrication a lot easier because I know I can tune up the throat as precisely as I want after the body is glued up.
Thanks for the photos. Now, if only I could do as well ...
Take care and thanks for showing us you wonderful plane.
Phillip
Cocobolo plane
Phillip, the mouth is not adjustable on this plane. This was a beginning plane making project and we did not even discuss the subject of adding the ability to adjust. I suppose that the instructor thought that it was too complex for a beginners project.
I would have preferred a wooden strike button but the instructor wanted to try the bolt. A wooden button would have been much friendlier on my brass adjusting hammer. If I had it to do again, I would use a hardwood button.
The plane does indeed work great. Thanks for the compliments.
Steve
but soon realized that it was a pain to work with. Is not all wood that way?
Ever have to work with your new bride and maybe a few teenaged children? Maybe.. working with a new cat or dog that chewed up your good 'stuff' and the local neighbor you thought was a BAD guy and you finally became friends?
Wood is not a bad thing.. Like your family and friends,,, they just do strange things at times!
No problems here with a little acetone to wipe edge then good ole titebond..
More good news!
Hello gofigure57!
This is what I meant when I said my research was finding folks who used every type of glue for adhering cocobolo to whatever. The thought that came to me during all of this was, what the heck did woodworker's use to glue-up cocobolo before Gorilla glue was born?? Had to have been Titebond or hide glue or something close to. One thread I read made mention of using hide glue to glue up fret boards one a guitar. I could just see the fret board falling off during a concert. You can tell I know absolutely nothing about any of this.
I'm off to get a fresh can of acetone so I'll be good to go. Thanks for the great info.
Phillip
No problems here with a little acetone to wipe edge then good ole titebond..
Sure glad I haven't gotten to the glue part yet because I would REALLY HATE IT if my plane fell apart on me. Takes too much work to make one of these things correctly only to have it come apart in your hands. My bar tab is high enough as it is. Ha.
Thanks for taking the time to add your comments. I do have epoxy so I think I will use this when I'm ready for glue-up. I have never glued cocobolo to anything. I have only used it for floating box tops.
I appreciate the help.
Phillip Anthony
I use Tite bond three for the glue up of Teak and the good folks at Tite bond told me to use Acetone just before glue up and have had no failures. This is use out doors for my use.
Tony,
I appreciate the info. Seems that just about any good modern wood will glue up this oily stock if it is properly treated with acetone prior to glue up.
Thanks again for your post.
Phillip
Use acetone to clean and Titebond III to glue up the plane
Phillip:
Welcome to the fun world of planemaking. I have made dozens of wooden planes using the Krenov method in all shapes and sizes. I would clean the parts with acetone and glue them together with Titebond III. In tests, Titebond III adheres better than Gorillia glue. You can use Epoxy, but it has no benefit over Titebond III in this application.
Different application, but I tried using Acetone followed by Epoxy to reattach some teak trim pieces on my boat. The repair didn't last through the summer boating season. I cleaned the trim again with Acetone and glued them in place with Titlebond III. that was two seasons ago and the trim is still holding in place (time to knot on wood).
Please post a picture or two of the plane once it's completed.
gdblake
You bring tears to my eyes ...
gdblake,
The mere mention of James Krenov brings both joy and sadness to my heart. The world has lost a giant, but he has left all wood craftsmen with an incredibly rich legacy of knowledge that we will never be able to repay. All we can do is try to pass it on as best we can. He also cost me a fortune because between him and my dear Grandfather, they both inspired me to become a wood worker. Enough said.
In truth, all of my planes are based on his timeless design. I aspired to attend the College of the Redwoods, but life kept me away. Woe is me. However, with the inspiration that Krenov's books instilled in anyone who took the time to read them and - the wonderful and insightful help that is so freely given in these forums from folks such as yourself, a person cannot help but become a better wood worker.
Much obliged for your very helpful post.
Warm Regards,
Phillip Anthony
Phillip:
All I can say is that I only use Cocobolo for archery bowe grips as in the handles and as trim for small boxes I make. I first sand with 100 grit and then 220 grit. I wipe with Acetone until I see no color and let it flash off. I have used Gorilla and tightbond II and III without any failures. I glue up shortly after sanding. I do this for most of the hardwoods I use. Even if not Exotic hardwoods... I love the hardwoods from where I live.. As in the USA.. I love Poplar, Ash and Hickory but I understand Ash is in BIG trouble these days.. My favorite wood is Jatoba...
Even the 'grip' of a bow will flex a bit and a hunting bow will be out in the rain and snow for a few or more hours.. I never had any fail.. All I can say about it... I make bows on a 'whim' and give them away.. I would never kill any animal (yes I do eat meat) .. I'm just not one to sit out in the rain and snow to go hunting....
Will,
Thanks for the info. It is much appreciated.
Phillip
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