Most articles I’ve read on essential woodworking tools mention the drill press in the list of top five most valuable tools. So far, I haven’t seen the need for one in my shop, am I missing something? I’ve read that a drill press can not only drill holes but also stand-in for a benchtop mortiser and spindle sander. On the other hand, I’ve read that drill presses are not designed well for either of these optional uses and that the significant downward pressure from mortising and the sideways pressure from sanding can easily damage a drill press.
Is the drill press really a many uses tool and if so, is it important to purchase a 3/4 or 1 hp machine to do so?
– Lyptus
Replies
It depends on your needs. Get one when you have the need. Forget trying to mortise with one. Personally I find a horizontal slot mortiser a better way to do mortising than a chisel type mortiser.
Using it occassionally for spindle sanding isn't going to hurt it a bit. 3/4 or 1 hp are so close don't sweat it. 3" quill travel is typical and 100 to 2000 rpm is good for most general uses.
I wouldn't call it "essential", but I'm glad I have one. Mine is used exclusively for drilling holes since I do very few M&T joints and I have an oscillating spindle sander.
Before I got the spindle sander, I used the drill press with the sanding drums. It worked pretty well, but I didn't like cleaning up the sanding marks.
If you get one, I recommend a floor model. I had a couple of bench models over the years and found that they often were more trouble than they were worth. - lol
If you get one, I recommend a floor model. I did that (long ago) and gave away my little bench top one.What a mistake! LOL.. Yes, I did NOT laugh then. The floor model chuck would not hold my smaller drill bits.I had to go get me a new bench model where the chuck closed 'all the way'. Dang!
You only need one when you need it <grin> but they are very handy. Use one for drilling with a Forstner bit (flat-bottom holes), drill non-through holes at a specific depth (e.g., countersinking), perfectly spaced holes (with a series of stops), and any time you need a hole that's perfectly square to the surface, or at a given angle (tilt the table).
Mortising is, IMHO, a bit of a hassle -- you have to convert it over with the various parts and you need a bigger drill press than would suffice if you're just drilling holes. Then, when you need the DP, all the stuff comes off again.
Mine is a 10" model they don't make any longer, smallish motor (1/4 HP ) and it does the things I need it to do just fine. I needed it for a project (lumber rack, 5° holes in 2x4 edges) and didn't have the $$ and couldn't see the need for a big sucker. I know I didn't pay any $130 for it, but don't remember what kind of deal I got. You want to be sure any DP you get doesn't have bad runout, has enough clearance to do what you'd be likely to need, and the table ratchets (the reallllly cheapo small ones don't).
If you have room for a floor model, you might be able to find one on Craig's List at a pretty reasonable price.
"what do you mean by the 'table ratchets'?"
""what do you mean by the 'table ratchets'?"" That the table raises and lowers using a crank handle and a "gear" and doesn't simply unlock and then have to be raised and lowered by hand. My first baby drill press worked that way and it was a royal pain in the bee-hind. As far as I know, only the cheapest, most introductory DPs have (had?) that lovely feature.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Why bother?
Well jigs & fixtures are critical in woodworking; without them you're seriously handicapped.
The components on fixturing substrates are rarely joined; they're fastened with screws. If you can't drill you can't make accurate fixturing (jigs). There are more than 50 drilling operations in this one, nearly all critical.
There are drilling operations essential to woodworking and furniture making; I wouldn't ignore it. Just where do you learn such an art? That is another perplexing matter.
Routers
Edited 10/8/2007 9:46 am ET by Routerman
Hi Lytus
I have had a floor standing drill press for about 10 years. I use it more than the table saw (then again, I use the bandsaw more than the tablesaw).
It is great for accurate drilling, when accuracy is vital.
You can use large forstner bits with ease (mine is 3/4 HP).
I would not consider a mortising attachment (they are trouble), but I do drill out mortices with great accuracy, with an easier set up than a router.
I often chuck in deburring or polishing wheels. These are quick to swap over.
Mine has an Easy Rider adjustment - this does away with the winder, so height adjustment is a simple affair.
The same company market a belt sander attachment that just swings out and clips on. I have this as well.
Great tool.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Derek,What is the name of the company that made your drill press attachments? I couldn't find anything about them via Google.Thanks,
Lyptus
Hi Lyptus
Trace them via this review:
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/easyriser.htm
Regards from Perth
Derek
In practice you might find that the floor model uses less valuable space than the bench model in a small shop. It has a small footprint, and can be pushed into a spare corner. I have mine on wheels, but I find that for most jobs it can stay right where it is. The bench model was always in the way. Jim
L,
What everyone else said.
If you use sanding drums in the drill press, be aware that the sideways pressure can loosen the chuck on its taper. Sometimes it might fall off or it may just put the chuck out of alignment a little (ie you get slight wobble). Check for a wobble after drum sanding, using a dial gauge or similar. Tap it back into alignment with a wooden or rubber hammer.
Le Valley (I think) do sanding drums with a special rotating base that fits into a matching thang locked to the drill press table. This helps stop any side presure on the chuck from dislodging it from its taper, as the drum is then held at both ends.
I use miy drill press all the time. It surprising how often you want to make holes at 90 degrees (or other set angle) in furniture. Typically for dowels, screws and bolts (eg in KD items). Floorcstanding takes up less room than one on your bench. If you want to spend a bit, one with electronic ot other easy speed control would be good (I hate changing the belt on the pulleys).
Last suggestion: a engineer's vise bolted to the table gives you a lot of options for mounting and precisely moving workpieces, using sacrificial tables, mounting tables with fences, etc.. I have a vise that has two cross-wise slideways, movable via screw handles; and lockable. You can position (and move) a workpiece under the drill bit very accurately with one of these.
Lataxe
Lyptus, you might want to take a look at the current Wood Magazine. They have a review of current benchtop drill presses, and the explain about the many improvements that have been made in this type of drill press, the different designs for speed adjustment, depth stop, etc., that are available, and then some testing (Forstner in hard maple??) I haven't read it all the way through, but you could settle in a chair at Barnes and Noble and have a quick read.
For what it's worth I have a simple Delta 11-990 bench top that does all I need to supplement my major shop equipment. It is plenty adequate and I would NOT want to be without it!
I have a spindle sander but before that I used the drill press to do spindle sanding. I made a plywood box with a hole in the top to surround the sanding drum and a hole in the side for the shop vac. Too much dust otherwise.
Also, I bought one of those "drill press table tops" with Tee slots for hold-downs and a fence. IMHO this is a must-have attachment.
Frosty
"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled