Replies

1. 
   BertJ | Jul 17, 2003 11:56pm | #1

   Ken,

   I would edge-joint 2-1/2" X 1/2" walnut pieces to the sides and use 1/2" finger joints for the corners.

   BJ

1. 
   kenewald | Jul 18, 2003 12:16am | #2

   See attached.  Is this what you're thinking?

   
1. 
   BertJ | Jul 18, 2003 02:14am | #4

   No, Ken, as has been posted already this would probably be too thin. My idea is to rip the walnut to about 2-1/2 inches wide and plane it to the same thickness as the sides--1/2 inch. Cut pieces that are slightly longer than the height of the sides and edge glue them to the sides. Then make your corner joints by routing 1/2-inch fingers. Dovetails would be elegant, but probably too much work for the project at hand.

   BJ

1. 
   kenewald | Jul 18, 2003 02:35pm | #7

   Sorry Bert.  I get it now.  Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures and explain it.  

   The only problem I can see is that the grain is running the wrong way for finger or dovetail joints.  I should have included that information on my original msg.  Sorry.

   -Ken

2. 
   BertJ | Jul 18, 2003 02:22am | #5

   Ken,

   Here is a finger-jointed corner.

   BJ

   
2. 
   ron61 | Jul 18, 2003 12:52am | #3

    Just my thinking using 1/2 thick stock doing a tongue and grove corner that's getting pretty thin isn't it?

   You know the old through Dovetail joint would be the strongest and end  grain will contrast really well if you plan to stain the Ash  .

   It would be very strong and easy wipe down.

   I love the look of Dovetails
3. 
   jackiechan | Jul 18, 2003 05:57am | #6

   Ken,

   You could try a solid wood corner block like the graphic I've enclosed.  This can be done so that the curve is flush with the sides for a smooth transition, or, the cuts can be made deeper to create a small reveal.

   If you have any questions, please feel free to ask!

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

   
1. 
   kenewald | Jul 18, 2003 02:38pm | #8

   Dan, I really like this idea. 

   Any ideas on how to make the rounded portion?  1" round-over?

1. 
   ian | Jul 18, 2003 04:28pm | #9

   Ken

   block plane or a belt sander clamped to your bench.

2. 
   AlanTurner | Jul 18, 2003 05:21pm | #10

   Try a drawknife to oversize, and fimish with a spokeshave.  Should take about 5 min. per corner.  A very quiet approach.

   Alan

1. 
   kenewald | Jul 18, 2003 06:01pm | #11

   Ian and Alan,

   Thanks for the ideas. 

   I have a wood plane and I'm perty good at shaping things convex...  don't know why I didn't think of the quiet approach.

   -Ken

3. 
   jackiechan | Jul 19, 2003 03:55am | #12

   Ken,

   A 1" round over would work fine.  This can also be achieved by using a well sharpened bench plane.  I've made this type of corners with radius' as large as 4" using a table saw with the blade set at 45 degrees to hog off a large portion of the corner.  From the table saw, I moved onto a bench plane followed by a curved cabinet scraper.  The longer sole of the bench plane helps you avoid creating irregularities over the length of the corner (top to bottom).  This corner, especially one made with a contrasting wood, needs to have a smooth and consistent curve and surface for the optimum visual effect. 

   Map out the locations of the cuts and waste stock on the end of the piece (see enclosed graphic).  This will give you a constant reference to work from.

   If you have any other questions (about this project or otherwise), please feel free to ask!

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

   Edited 7/18/2003 8:57:23 PM ET by Jackie Chan