Replies

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Feb 22, 2009 04:58pm | #1

   Hi Ralph,

   I once made what I call stepped crown molding out of 3/4" pine.  I first sketched a profile that I wanted - using what I had for router bits at the time.  Of course this also provides you with an excuse to buy more bits too!  :-)

   I ripped one board into 3 different widths, i.e. 3", 2" & 1" (not exact widths).

   Using a router table with a roundover bit I ran it through on both sides of one edge to make a bullnose profile; ran the 2" piece through using a cove bit and put an ogee profile on the 1" piece.   When stacked together it created fairly reasonable looking crown molding.

   This worked well as I was able to screw the top 2 layers in and then countersunk finish nails for the bottom (ogee) profile to cover up the screws.

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   jako17 | Feb 23, 2009 01:12am | #2

    Not wishing to rain on your parade but unless the trim is very simple it and you only need a small amount,it may be cheaper and faster to concoct your own style out of a combination of readily available mouldings.Handling long lengths on a router table and maintaining consistancy is quite an undertaking.We make a lot of Victorian custom trim using 3 shapers and power feeds even that is a pill compared to running it on a sticker with multiple heads.

3. 
   MikeHennessy | Feb 23, 2009 03:42pm | #3

   Well, there's "trim", and then there's "trim". What style? Victorian, Modern, Ranch, A&C?

   As another poster pointed out, making complex mouldings with a router can be tough, since a router in a table will work best on, or close to, the edge of the stick. You can at least partially overcome this by using multi-part designs. If you do that, you could combine wide stock you make up with, say, a coved rabbet on one edge, and add a more complex stock (i.e., purchased) piece for the final section. (Like the 3-piece base found in some of the old Victorian-era homes.)

   Another option is to use a moulding head on a TS. This would let you deal with wider profiles.

   Google "moulding profiles" for a plethora of ideas.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

   PS: You might wanna post this Q over at breaktime for some additional insight from the trim carpenters who hang out over there.

    

   
   

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   Edited 2/23/2009 7:43 am ET by MikeHennessy

1. 
   RGomez | Feb 23, 2009 04:38pm | #4

   Thanks for the advice. I see that I am going to have to do some additional research. I always see these profile bits advertised bud didn't know if the are worth the cost etc.
   I am going to have to look more into this.Ralph

1. 
   brad805 | Feb 24, 2009 08:46am | #5

   I'm with Jako and Mike on this one.  I have made about 700ft of cherry trim (thus far) for my home with a shaper and power feeder.  I would say thats the min. for such a task.  Another thing, if you are thinking about staining get ready for a bit of hand sanding.  Been there, done that.  In my case I am using Cherry and in the arts and crafts style so I would have went into the poor house if I had bought it from a moulder co.  At the end of the project I do have some really nice machines, but it is far more time than I expected. 

   Brad

    

1. 
   RGomez | Feb 24, 2009 07:07pm | #6

   Thanks for the advice.Does anyone own a planer/moulder? What are the capabilities of these machines and do they work anything like they advertise etc?Just trying to gather some knowledge---

1. 
   brad805 | Feb 24, 2009 07:54pm | #7

   Lots of people use the woodmaster, Logosol and the W&H.  Keep in mind the shaping is only part of the battle.  Unless you can find blanks (rough shaped timbers) in the size you need, a lot of the work is getting 4/4 stock sized.

   You might want to take a look on the Woodweb or the Sawmill creek site for some more info too.

   Brad