I’m having trouble gluing up small boxes and need some advice on what I’m doing wrong. The mitered corners look fine when I dry fit the box. When I glue and clamp, I can’t keep the corners aligned. One side slides slightly past the other.
How can I get the mitered corners to line up perfectly?
Any advice would be appreciated,
Scott
Replies
I've never had much luck clamping mitered frames together without some sort of alignment spline or biscuits. A lock miter works well and can be band clamped but Its a difficult joint to make accurately without a shaper and power feed.
When making small mitered boxes, I'll just glue everything together holding it with masking tape until the glue has set then I'll cut in decorative and functional splines after the fact. I use masking tape a lot for clamping. Works good for edge banding too, if you don't have an edgebander. Shrink wrap tape also works good for small mitered boxes.
I once made a clamping table using air powered cylinders for gluing up mitered cabinet doors which worked pretty well but was a lot of work to build.
Keep experimenting, you'll figure something out.
Bret
Thanks ....
at least I now know that its not just me. By the time I get done trying to adjust the clamps, the glue (Titebond yellow) has set up and I can't move the sides at all, even though its only been a few minutes.
I'll try tape on the next one I make.
Scott
For small boxes, laying a strip of tape, adhesive side up, on the work surface, and then carefully placing the box components on the tape prior to applying the glue, can help. Then, after applying the glue, you just "roll" up the box and add a band clamp or two, set up in advance to have the right size of loop. The wrinkles are that the tape needs to be perpendicular to the work pieces, and placement on the tape needs to be precise. An assembly jig might help - a flat piece of material with an alignment edge, against which the pieces can be butted, and guide lines marked for tape placement.
Alternatively, you could try one of the various corner clamping accessories, like the Mini Clamp-It assembly braces:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11156&filter=Mini%20Clamp-It
Also, consider doing the glue-up in two stages: glue and clamp the sides in pairs, then join the pairs as the second step. That makes it easier to stay within the open time of the glue.
just finished 6 box glue ups for gifts and ralphbarker's tape method worked great on all boxes. No slippage and tight miters. Use the widest tape you can find. try it,,,you'll like it!
taping boxes
Ralph, I do the same thing but I use two pieces of 2" tape for each corner, I don't use a continuos piece that wraps around the entire box. Being careful lay your joints tight, I've never had a problem with alignment.
don
Need help on box glue up
Scott,
The advice on usining tape is really effective. Much stornger than you would think and, done carefully, alligns the edges perfectly and keeps them alligned. Something else that's recommended is to use Elmer's white glue instead of yellow glue. I am told that it's plenty strong enough with the advantage that it drys enough more slowly than yellow glue that you have time to get all of your parts alligned and taped and rubber banded into place before the glue starts to set up. Use a small brush apply the glue to both surfaces at each joint - don't use too much - the aim is to just wet both surfaces with a THIN film of glue so that you get a super bond with just a little squeeze out.
Mike D
I have heard of using coarse salt to keep glue ups from slipping, not for corners though, The idea is that a few grains of salt will prevent slipping during clamp up and then dissolve into the glue. I've never tried this 'cause I don't like the idea of salt being left in a joint. When I do glue ups like this I use an artist's brush. I find it less sloppy than a flux brush. If I forget to clean it, even waterproof Titebond III comes off if you soak the brush in warm soap water for a couple of hours.
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