I want to make a chisel rack for some Stanley 750s. Similar to the Lie-Nielsen chisels.
My concept is a board like a shelf, holes drilled through it. Then, maybe a slot cut from the front to the hole.
Is there an easy way to taper the hole? Cone shaped hole? Wider at the top, narrow at the bottom — like a funnel?
Thoughts, ideas, links?
Thanks,
Alan – planesaw
Edited 4/27/2007 10:19 pm ET by Planesaw
Replies
I recently made one out of nominal 1" pine from HD. It is about 3" wide, and is about 36 inches long. I planed the board in the back only to create a raised ip abut 1/8 inch high, then bored out the holes and cut back from the front. The result fit chisels pretty well, but was structurally weak, so I took a 3/4 " scrap of birch ply and glued it vertically, angling it at each end. Finished the whole thing with amber shellac -- a pain beause of all the edges.
It hangs across a window that is over one of my benches. It holds about 24 chisels nicely, includng some butt, several bench and firmer, and four old socket mortising chisels (old Buck and New Haven). The only thing I don't like is that the narrowest chisels tend to cant a bit instead of hangng straight. Still, the depth of the wood and the lip hold them on the rack without trouble.
I did another shorter, deeper rack for my braces and yankee screwdrivers. In that case I wanted the slots to curve in so I made a template out of folded shirt cardboard and used it to trace identical lines for curved cuts leading into each bore hole.
BTW, because of their design, the socket chisels all hang straight in the holes
Joe
Edited 4/28/2007 12:04 am ET by Joe Sullivan
Planesaw,
About a month I replaced my chisel racks, I tried to copy a picture I saw on here a few months ago. In other words, I was guessing at the dimensions. In the pics the chisel racks overlapped in the box doors...that was the key feature I was after.
I used 5/4 stock that I drilled about 3/4 through with a 7/8" Fosner and then a 1/2" bit the rest of the way. The bandsaw was used to finish the key-hole shape. All the chisels sit up nicely and are easy to retrieve...except the 1 1/2" 750 it gets a bit sticky. Perhaps thinner stock (1") would be better for the 750.
BG,
Any chance you have a good photo or two? I have experimented using the bandsaw to cut the final part of the keyhole. The problem I have found is that by the time I cut the slot out wide enough for the chisel to go through then the hole is almost too big.
Ideas?
Alan - planesaw
Here is one from Popular Woodworking that I am about to build:
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/printable.asp?id=1305.
dherzig,
I love that holder, reminds me of my 'dart' throwing days. I need to see the blades on the chisels, however, I'm mixing Stanleys, Bucks, Japanesse, and a couple of other brands with bench and firmer types.
Interesting thought: what about using lucite for the front piece. I may try that. Thanks.
Planesaw,
I'm sorry, I don't have a camera. The last picture(link) that FSN posted is very close to what I copied. I left off the fancy attachment feet and screwed through a couple of the chisel holders to attach the strip, I needed to save space.
I dont have the problem you mentioned. Perhaps its because the stock is thicker? In general, the opening (width)made by the bandsaw will be darn close to the diameter of the circle..in my case about 1/2".
Alan
Here is a recent picture of my chisel storage. Unfortunately (!) it seems to frequently need updating as more chisels are adopted.
The left side are Japanese chisels: bench, mortice, parers and dovetail. They are in three banks, each one set back a stage deeper to create more space between them (easier to remove). Each section is just screwed to the case - I know I will have to re-do it at some stage.
The right side contain my re-handled Berg paring chisels. I like long handles for these. The second tier up are Oval Bolstered Mortice chisels. At the top are my carving chisels.
View Image
I still lack room for my dovetail parers, the ones I made from Berg steel and the birthday set of Blue Spruce, plus Witherbys .... They are elsewhere in boxes, rolls and freestanding racks. I guess I am a bit obsessional about chisels?
This is what I mean. An old picture with the Bergs pre-mods. It is useful to keep around when working away from the main bench. I think that incorporating a removable rack is the ideal solution.
View Image
Regards from Perth
Derek
Derek,
Thanks for the photos. Photos can be better than a thousand words. You raise a good point. Whatever chisel rack I build today will need to be modified sooner probably rather than later.
Thanks again,
Alan - planesaw
A very nice collection indeed! I was curious about the planes seen to the left in the 1st photo. They look like Veritas low angle smoother and jack planes. Is this correct? How do you like these compared to other planes you have owned. Have you used the different angled blades?
I would love to hear what you think about them.
They look like Veritas low angle smoother and jack planes. Is this correct? How do you like these compared to other planes you have owned. Have you used the different angled blades?
Hi Vincent
Yes, they are the Veritas BU planes, and yes, I have used a variety of cutting angles, especially between 62-65 degrees. These are necessary for most Australian hardwoods.
Here is another picture:
View Image
The left side are mainly HNT Gordon planes (along with a 30" jointer I recently built). To the right are Veritas BU planes - BU Smoother, LA Jack , LA Smoother and BU Jointer.
I also own a number of other BU and BD planes. Notable modern ones include the LN #4 1/2 bronze and a Marcou S15. All the planes work exceptionally well, although the Marcou is the standout and easily the best smoother I have used. What separates the planes is not so much their performance but the "feel" and the ease of use. This is a personal thing and so your mileage may vary.
All these planes are head and shoulders above well tuned Stanley planes on Australian hardwoods and, unless you work with woods with difficult grain, you will likely not find much of a performance difference.
I like the Gordon woodies very much. Their slickness on the wood surface is sensual, and they have excellent performance - not as good as the Veritas BUs in high angle mode, but they are wonderful for their total experience. I prefer the low centre of effort feel of the Veritas BU to the high centre of effort of the LN BD planes. I don't really make use of the BU advantage of using several blades with different bevel angles since I have enough planes to dedicate each to a blade (!). Still, for someone who cannot, this is a real positive. On the other hand, honing a blade for a BD plane is less exacting than for a BU plane, and the edge lasts longer (steel for steel). Were I to own just one plane it would likely be a Veritas BU plane, either the LA Jack (amazing all rounder and my favourite on a shooting board - until I get my Stanley #51/52 restoration completed!) or the LA Smoother (a greatly underrated plane).
Regards from Perth
Derek
I've seen several methods for storing chisels:
1) Rack with a slot that lets the chisel into a hole that has been drilled.
2) A drawer with a cross piece set in that has a groove cut for each chisel.
3) A magnetic bar (frequently with a small shelf below it to support the handle).
4) Rack with rectangular slots cut through for the chisel blade (leave the bottom open so sawdust can fall through).
I've found pictures in some of "how to set up your shop" type books.
Here are a few links on the web:
http://www.runnerduck.com/saw-chisel_rack/saw-chisel_rack.htm
http://mail.friendlycity.net/~krucker/Shop/ChiselRack.htm
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1305
http://forums.taunton.com/n/docs/docDownload.aspx?guid=CB4444E0-83CD-4045-93DA-F47EFDE5578F&webtag=fw-knots
--Whit
FSN,
Hey, thanks for all the links. They are loaded with ideas for me.
Alan - planesaw
Tapered - coned shaped - holes are actually kinda easy. All you need is a brace and an antique spoonbit that is tapered.
Or you could simply drill the holes to the small diameter, and use a rat tail file to widen the tops.
Support our Troops. Bring them home. Now. And pray that at least some of the buildings in the green zone have flat roofs, with a stairway.
Yessem'
Its that "all you need is an antique spoonbit" that puts a damper on things. I checked the local antique store and they are all out.
I haven't checked ebay but any ideas on where else I could find such a tool?
Thanks,
Alan - planesaw
Alan,
You got some good suggestions with photos. They are all quite servicable. They will do the trick. But they lack pizazz. Would Thomas Chippendale have used such plain racks? I think not. I recommend something befitting the collection of tools that you have. Something nicely carved or inlaid. There is no reason that you could not add a mechanism, controlled by a TV remote manipulator, which raised the chisel of choice and tilts it in your direction. If you develop this nicely, I believe that it will be displayed in a future issue of FWW.
Have fun. Dream big! Make masterpieces.
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
Mel,
Well, I hadn't thought about the remote control, and I am a long way from a good carver, but, I was thinking I didn't want something where I can't readily see what size chisel to pick up.
I was thinking about a drawer of chisels that comes out of the chest, is taken to the workbench, a couple legs drop down from underneath the drawer which holds the drawer at an angle for easy viewing and picking up the chisel of my choice.
Some years ago I made a bench top tool chest of about 15 drawers. I was thinking about making a mating piece that would sit on top and have several drawers. A few different drawers for different sets of chisels, or the odds and ends.
Oh well, back to the shop. Thanks for your words of humor and wisdom.
Alan - planesaw
Alan,
Read my response to Joe Sullivan. I think you'll get a kick out of it.
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Mel,
Wow. You reckon you could get Joe to post some photos? Sounds like a great shop.
Alan - planesaw
A chisel jukebok?
Joe,
That's it: "A chisel jukebox".
Now that would be classy!
I can see that you are not an ordinary woodworker, but a man of vision -- a man who asks not what woodworking can do for you, but what can you do for woodworking -- and "out of the bun" thinker!I visited a guy today who spent a career as a metal worker and a teacher of metal work. Then he got into woodworking. He is 70, and a member of the woodworking guild that I belong to. His workshop is a wonder to behold. Many of his tools, such as his router table, with router attached, is on a hoist, and it normally sits by the ceiling. When he wants it, he presses a switch and it comes down to sit on the bench. His tools are on both sides of panels which pull out from the wall and then turn to either side to let you get at the tools. Seeing it was like seeing Disneyland for the first time. I have seen lots of workshops, but nothing comes close to this one. It is one of a kind. It was designed and build by one guy for his own purposes. He did more to stretch the boundaries of my thinking than all of the volumes of FWW that I have read. Creativity is a wonderful thing.Have fun.
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
This is a helpful post because I'm in the same boat. Over the months I've looked at many examples in the archives. The cabinet was a relatively easy design, a wall rack. The holes/slots took a little more thought. After looking at many designs I've decided on grinding the profile I want from a spade bit. Now I'm waiting for the spade bit to arrive.
pgken,
I think you have drilled down to the core of my problem/question. Building a cabinet, a rack, a whatever to hold the board that holds the chisels is no problem.
The problem is what sort of hole, slot, etc., do I use to hold the various chisels I have. Mine are primarily Stanely 750 socket chisels in design. Because the handle can pop out of them (rarely, but can easily happen) I don't want the handle to be the support. I want the top portion of the socket to be the support. That can mean each hole needs to be a little different.
Can you tell me a little more about how you are going to grind the spade bit? What shape of a profile?
Is there a link to a particular design, with photo, that you like?
Thanks,
Alan - planesaw
In fitting the chisels to the rack, I measured the diameter of the section upon which each chisel would rest (usually they can be grouped into similar sizes), then drilled out spaced holes for these. For some the hole was small enough for the blade to drop through, and the hole is enough. For others the blade is too wide, and for these a slot was cut.
View Image
Regards from Perth
Derek
Alan, the design I mentioned back towards the beginning of the thread is working very well for my socket chisels. The socket is wider that the hole, so the tool is secure.
Joe
Joe,
My chisels run from 1/8" to 2". A hole holds the small ones with no problem. A hole with a slot holds the medium size. Once I get up to an inch and a quarter to 2 inches then a hole that will fit the socket won't work with a slot. The slot has to be wider than the hole to get the chisel through. then the hole is too big.
With all the ideas people have given (that's what is so great about Knots) I know I'll come up with the answer. I always have to determine whether I am too dense to understand what people are saying versus me not explaining the problem adequately.
Alan - planesaw
I'll make the profile based on the widest and thinnest part, of the largest and smallest chisel I have. And the thickness of the rack will be considered to determine the slope. After finding the profile I'll mark the spade bit and grind away. Being careful not to draw the temper out of it, and being careful to keep both sides as symetrical as possible.Another option I was considering was using a taper bit. Decided against it due to the cost plus the angle of the taper wasn't what I wanted. Here is the article that gave me the idea about grinding my own profile:http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDF/011149064.pdfIt's a short article and doesn't really get into grinding in any depth.Hope this helps....
pqken,
Fantastic article. Also showed me a different way to search. I had done searches on "chisel rack" but not "chisel cabinet." Don't know what it'll do but I am going to try it.
The bit is an excellent idea.
Thanks,
Alan - planesaw
You can get these from McMaster-Carr.http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCtlgPage.aspx?ReqTyp=CATALOG&CtlgPgNbr=2383&CtlgEdition=113&fam=metaldrills&ppe=5&ppr=1&psm=3&psl=3&k1=8910A11&t1=PN&k2=8910A12&t2=PN&k3=8910A13&t3=PN&k4=8910A14&t4=PN&k5=8910A15&t5=PN&sesnextrep=792518017436963&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=958#scrollSorry for the long link, but their site uses frames and the web address for the working frame doesn't appear in the bvrowser. Copy and paste the entire link into your address field. If this fails type in http://www.mcmaster.com and use their search field to find sheet metal bits.
"Is there an easy way to taper the hole? Cone shaped hole?"
You might use a sheet metal drill- it is cone shaped, 1/4" at bottom and about 1 inch at top. Good ones are HSS, and mighty useful for all kinds of things: mine has never bitten sheet metal .
Edited 4/29/2007 9:43 pm by philip
phillip,
I was about to suggest a countersink drill bit after cutting the slots. I have several of different diameters but not to 1" on the outside. Can you tell us more about the sheet metal drill bit?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob,It is basically a two flute drill bit that tapers down from 30mm to 6mm, over a length of 75mm . The cutting end is ground just like a twist drill bit, so it does not need a pilot hole. Made for drilling any size hole between 6 and 30mm in sheet metal- you just stop when the correct diameter is reached-better in a drill press. Since it is high speed steel I use it for counter sinking for rivets etc ,as on the cross pin for my planes, but it does taper holes in wood with very clean edges, since there is little back-off on the flutes.Good foe de-burring small pipes etc and doing a slight chamfer or lead in.
Plumbers use a similar thing for de-burring pipe ends, but it is not self drilling and the taper is much steeper.
Bought in Germany-I know good kit when I see it!Philip Marcou
Edited 4/30/2007 1:53 am by philip
i use a step bit for some work as well. Not as clean as the mentioned bit, but it could work?
http://www.lenoxsaw.com/varibit.htm
All --
Thanks to everyone's input, I think I have discovered part of the answer to my quandry.
---- the thickness of the horizontal board that holds the chisels!!!!
The thicker it is the larger the slot that has to be cut. On my larger chisels the slot becomes too big.
THEREFORE -- I am going to experiment with a 1/2" piece of plywood. I am betting it will work fine. May have to have some support blocks between chisels.
If this ever works out to my satisfaction I 'll post some pics.
Thanks again everyone,
Alan - planesaw
Alan:
You are absolutely right. The rack I just made was with nominal 1" pine from HD, so, say, 3/4 inch before I planed the back to make the retaining lip. I sized my holes to fit most of my chisels well , while not dropping any of them. The socket chisels ride on the sockets very nicely. The bigger the chisel, the higher it rides. If I had framing chisels in that rack, I'd have made some holes larger. The tanged chisels ride on the handle where the tang comes out. The smaller ones may slide the ferrule in; the larger ones; the larger ones just ride on it.
Joe
Picture of drill .Philip Marcou
Philip,
Thanks. Haven't seen a bit like that. Always good to learn something new.
Alan - planesaw
My chisel rack is the same type that you mention...about four feet long, and holds about 25 tools. I keep relocating other tools as I improve my chisel selection. I drilled all the holes 3/4" and then cut a half inch slot in the front of all the holes on the router table sliding it back with a miter gauge. Instead of tapering the holes, I just opened up the top of them with a 1/4" roundover bit on the router table (do this before you cut the slots : ) This system seems to work very well...good access and visibility, and it keeps the edges away from each other.
These are the type of racks I use for my chisels.
http://www.superwoodworks.com/Projects/ToolHolders.htm
They hang on the wall on french cleats until I need them then the rack will sit on the bench when I need them. This method keeps them close at hand and helps to keep the accident damage (rolling or knowcking off of the bench)from happening.
View Image
View Image
http://www.superwoodworks.com
Thanks Garry. Good ideas. And, I like your website. More good ideas for how I can organize some things.
Alan - planesaw
Two ideas.
One- a tapered reamer (used often by instrument makers) will make a nice tapered hole from a straight one. You can ream out the hole a little larger if necessary.
Two- lee valley's rare earth magnets are my chisel holder of choice. one 3/8" magnet per chisel does the job nicely. They have cups and pads for the magnets that make them very easy to install. The one drawback is that your chisels will attract steel wool filings and any other small ferric metal objects... This isn't usually a big problem.
Vincent- sorry to but in here- can you give a picture or link to somewhere where I can see the reamer you describe?Philip Marcou
sure-The particular reamer I saw was an older tool in the shop of a local luthier. I found some new ones though on this page:http://www.dick.biz/cgi-bin/dick.storefront/EN/Product/710730?PID=DWand also:http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5563these would probably be too small for the chisels described in this post (stanley 750)_________I found some more appropriate reamers on Lee Valley's website. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=54865&cat=1,180,42240,53317andhttp://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=54864&cat=1,180,42240,53317__________The magnets that I use are on THIS page:http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42348&cat=1,42363here are some photos
The reamers for small stringed instruments may be too small,but one for a bass or cello might be adequate (20 to 39mm diameter -3/4 to 1.5 inches) I didn't price them, but imagine it will be difficult to compete with the tapered sheetmetal bits unless you desire to build musical instruments too.
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