Replies

1. 
   blewcrowe | Apr 13, 2007 05:58pm | #1

   I have seen catalogs list a hollow drill type bit that drills around the shank of the screw, creating a cylinder or tube of wood that can be extracted then replugged with a dowel. Follow me?

1. 
   billballeza | Apr 13, 2007 06:02pm | #2

   Yes, I follow you. Fortunately I had drilled a 3/8 countersink so I have access to the shank already. I'm going to attempt breaking off the screw inside the countersink with a needlenose pliers.. then fill with a plug. I still have about a sixteenth showing on the opposite end which I may have to attempt the same maneuver.
   Thanks very much.Bill

1. 
   blewcrowe | Apr 13, 2007 06:09pm | #3

   Another idea is to use a dremel with a tiny grinder on it.

1. 
   billballeza | Apr 13, 2007 06:12pm | #4

   That is a great idea. I'll try that. Thank you.Bill

1. 
   mike4244 | Apr 13, 2007 06:28pm | #5

   I second the dremel,make the slot deep and with the thicker cutoff wheel.There are two thicknesses of cutoff wheels.The thinner wheel is only about 1/32" thick,the other wheel is about 1/16" thick.If you have a brace and a screwdriver bit use it instead of a regular screwdriver.You get more torque.Don't use a drill until the screw backs out easily.

   mike

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Apr 13, 2007 07:59pm | #6

   You might want to do a search on this topic. This is one of those topics that comes up so often that there ought to be a FAQ on it. I usually recommend getting a split pin from the hardware store just smaller than the screw shank. Open one end up a bit so it'll go over the shank. Chuck the other, non-expanded end into a drill. (Depending on how deep the screw is, you may want to first file one edge of the split into a tooth that will cut going counterclockwise.) Center the opening of the pin over the screw and drill in reverse. The pin will grab the screw and extract it. Patch as necessary, but should be pretty minimal.

   After re-reading your OP, you can do this from the sharp end of the screw as well -- you'll just need a smaller pin.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

   
   

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   Edited 4/13/2007 1:01 pm ET by MikeHennessy

1. 
   billballeza | Apr 13, 2007 10:59pm | #7

   Thanks to all for the advice. I used the dremel and ground the screw well into the countersink.. then drilled a hole the diameter of the screw into a dowel.. and glued it in.

   On the other end I simply ground the screw flat to the wood where it is now hidden by the cross brace between the legs which accepts the stretcher.

   The project is now completed.. with the only noticeable flaw being that there are two dowel plugs on one of the legs... one right above the other. That flaw of course has determined what the front side of the sofa table is.

   And, thank you, Richard Jones, for not pointing out that all this could have been avoided had I mortised the cross braces into the legs instead of (gasp!) using screws.

   Truthfully, I didn't even consider the stretcher until the table was assembled and I noticed it was a bit wobbly (dimensions 31 inches high by 14 inches wide by 52 inches long).

   Thanks again all.. I really panicked there for awhile.

   Bill

3. 
   TomHigby | Apr 13, 2007 11:30pm | #8

   There are such things as "screw extractors".  They can be had from metal working suppliers.  One has to bore a hole into the end of the broken screw large enough to fit the tip of the extractor, which is a hardened steel bit with coarse reversed threads, and a top that will fit a standard wrench.  The damagedscrew is then backed out of its hole.

   Tom

1. 
   billballeza | Apr 13, 2007 11:52pm | #9

   Thanks, Tom.

   As it happens, I have one of those.. but the screw head and shank broke off just above the threads.  I was left with nothing to bite into. Thank God for that 20 buck dremel type tool I picked up at Costco.

   Bill

4. 
   BruceS | Apr 14, 2007 03:01am | #10

   I know hind sight is 20/20 .   But Just a reminder.  I always use a pilot drill and screw lube(akum pucky,beeswax,soap,candle wax).  I've had far too many broken screws in the past to do otherwise anymore ;-)

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   billballeza | Apr 14, 2007 04:43am | #11

   Good advice. Here was my mistake. The drill bit I used for the pilot hole was too small for the 2 1/2 inch screws I was using. As I drove the screw home it began torquing really bad.. trying to express it's discomfort through the noise it was making.

   Then it broke. For the remaining screws I stepped the bit up one size and I toned down the torque on that monster 18v DeWalt drill/driver.

   I will also begin using lube as you suggest.. especially when driving through wood like Jarrah as I was today. Jarrah is used for fine furniture but also for railroad ties and phone polls in it's native Australia.

   Thanks,

   Bill