Need help setting planer blades
Well – I purchased a used Foley Belsaw 12″ planer at an auction, cleaned it up, had the blades sharpened and thought I was ready to go. BUT, I’m having trouble setting the blades. I am using a dial indicator on a magnetic stand to adjust the blades and have managed to get 2 of them set pretty close – within a couple three thousanths from end to end and each other. The last blade is giving me trouble. One end consistantly want to raise up over 10 thousanths when I tighten the gibs. I have tried tightening the small center gib first but it only helps a little – it keeps the blade from raising only 10-12 thousanths instead of 15 or more.
Can anyone point me in a direction to solving this troublesome problem? Any pointer out there??
Thanks
Charlie
Replies
You need a different tool to set the blades.
Charlie,
The blades on a planer are positioned with a tool that actually sits on the cylidrical surface of the cutting head, the blades can't be set up properly with a dial indicator attached to a base sitting on some other part of the machine. You can try to locate whatever setting tool was originally supplied with the machine or you can buy aftermarket planer blade setting tools from a few sources, Planer Pals are one brand.
The problem with the blades shifting is usually caused by burrs on the locking screws and gibs. Using a file to cleaning up the screw heads which are typically slightly rounded, and the gib surfaces they bear on, will usually solve the problem. In addition, a touch of grease or wax on the screw head where it bears on the gib will help.
Well - my thickness planer is an old belsaw machine. It doesn't have the screw system my jointer has where the screw press sideways against the blade. It has aluminum blocks with screws that protrude out the bottom and force the gib blocks up - the blocks being a wedge shape and the channel in the armiture being a wedge shape create the lateral force to hold the blades in place. I have adjusted the blades to the correct height using the adjustment screws and light gib pressure. I have the blades +/- .001 in that respect but when I tighten the gib screws the gibs rise away from the center axis and wedge the blade in place - when I tighten this one particular gib the blade travels with it and ends up being over .010" higher than the rest of the blades.
I guess I'll spend some more time looking for burs etc.
I don't have a Belsaw planer, so I can't help you with your paticular knife-setting problem. I can, however, try to point you in the right direction.
If you don't already have a copy of the manual, try looking for it on the Old Woodworking Machines website-owwwm.com. There is also a good video on setting planer knives on the WIKI section of that site-http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-986589700074242027&hl=en#. If that doesn't answer your questions, then try searching the OWWM.org website.
I wopuld like to comment on Mr. White's response. I think that an editor of a major woodworking magazine should know more about the question he's trying to answer.I found his answer seriously incomplete. The advise he gave, to check for burrs , was Ok as far as it went, but stating that the knives could not be set off a stationary surface on the planer was wrong. Yes, they can, on that planer,if you use the bed as a reference.Mr. White also advised him to get the original setting device or a device like Planer Pals.That doesn't address the problem. Most original setting jigs are not as accurate as they could be, and the poster is setting them the most accurate way, with a dial indicator.He stated that he could get the knives set in the proper position, but they moved when he tried to tighten them. The problem was not setting them in the proper position, but keeping them from slipping when he tightened them. That's what neither Mr White, nor I, have an answer for.
What is really needed is for someone to say " I have a Belsaw planer, and I had that problem too". Sadly, however, that type of answer is all too rare in the pages of Fine Woodworking, and here on the forum as well. It's the reason I no longer subscribe to the magazine.Much of the information in the magazine, and here on the forum, lacks the voice of experience which states "I've done that, and here's what I found"....
Anyway, I hope some one who has actual experience with Belsaw planers will come along and post. Until then, don't take a hammer to it, no matter how frustrating it gets!
Rick W
Thanks Rick - you really hit the nail on the head and squarely I might add.
I have been through this great site and have gained most of my knowledge from it but the problem I have does need to come from someone who has dealt with it. The only advice I have gotten so far from research is to tighten the center - molder gib first to help prevent it but so far that hasn't done more than HELP. I am trying real hard to be patient with this machine. I baught it last fall - parked it in the barn - started cleaning it up this winter - had the blades sharpened, honed them and have been tinkering with it for the last two months when i get a chance. I am hesitant to remove the main shaft as the best I can tell it is within a couple thousanths of being true to the bed. Although it was rather rusty when I got it - only the exterior exposed portion of the shaft was rusty and the gib channels had no significant deterioration. This telling me not to mess with it unless I have to.You know the old saying - dont fix what ain't broke.
I guess my next step is to do a test to see if a light coat of oil, a dry steel condition or a combination would help. I do think that will take me a couple three hours to complete. If there is anyone out there who has any experience with this type of blade setting experience I would love to hear from them.
Rising Planer Blades
I have an old 12" Foley Belsaw planer with the exact problem you've stated. It leaves ripples in the planed surface if the blades aren't set exactly even. I've done two things to mitigate the problem first I bought an aftermarket magnetic blade positioner. It holds the blades in the exact position you want. Next I do make sure there are no burrs on the blade side of the gibs. To do this I lay the blade side of the gib on a sheet of crocus cloth with the cloth being on the very flat surface like the feed deck of the planer or ground surface of a good table saw. Use a circuler motion and polish the blade side of the gib. You willl see if any burrs exist and are removed. Next use a bar of cheap soap and rub it against the blade side of the gib and gib side of the blade. This will allow the gib to slide past the blade. Next position the magnetic blade positioners over the blades with the height set. Next gently snug up the center gib.Next while applying a downward force with your free hand on the positioner snug up the other two gibs. Go back and forth between the outer gibs until tight. It's not perfect but it will get you alot closer. Foley made gear sets to increase the feed rate to get more lumber through the planer If you have a planer with this faster feedrate your problem will be exaserbated. If you need a better finish I do my "rough" planing with the Foley then run the piece through a small Ryobi which runs alot faster( more cuts per revolution). The Ryobi has a bullet proof bladse setting jig built into the machine.
Hopoe this helps.
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