Hello, I am new here and this may be a repeat post. I thought I posted yesterday but can’t find it so I will try again. I have a 6” Delta Jointer that is square to the in feed table but not the out feed table. I am concerned that there is not fix for this other than having the fence milled. The jointer is 6 years old or so and has not been used since I moved. I personally moved it so it was not beat up. Is there a fix? Thanks for your help.
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Replies
I had the same problem with a jointer fence years ago. The fence was cast iron. I read somewhere that if you clamped one end in a heavy vice that you could take out minor twist by applying pressure to the other end. I tried this using a 24" pipe wrench and it worked. Care must be taken to apply the pressure slowly until you feel it move slightly. Too much and you could break it. Another fix might be to bolt a piece of 3/4" plywood to the face using shims to make sure it is straight.
Before you start bending anything are the tables co-planer?? it may be as obvious as adjusting one of the tables.As far as adjustment, I have no knowledge of Delta as our machinery is 1940-50 vintage and huge 16" but the tables are adjustable
jako 17
I have not checked if the tables are coplanar. But I dont think this machine has an adjustment for this. There is a steel shim in the dovetail slot that the table rides in.
I think I know how to check for coplanar tables but like all things in life there is probably a really easy way that I have yet to discover.
Can you advise on how to check checeking for coplanar tables
Thanks for your help
I wish I knew an easy approach .I use a metal precision straight edge, a millwrights adjustable level and clock guage with a mag base.Then lots of patience.Most times the mounts for the sliding dovetails are bolted with oversize holes allowing one to adjust them.It is very unlikly that delta assembled this machine then just ground the tables after the fact.There were a couple of members on this site who can probably help Rick L being one so maybe he is still around .Though Don G has left. in the mean time take on board our suggestions and have a good look at the possibilities before embarking on anything radical.Sorry that I cannot be more specific to your machine jako
I agree with the previous comment w/ one addition - make sure the fence is not flat before attempting to bend anything. Remove the fence and sit it face up on a bench. Use a pair of steel rules or "winding sticks" to sight lengthwise to ensure there is or is not a twist in it. This is just like checking a board for twist. You can use a similar technique to see if the tables are parallel.
Thanks guys,
The user side of out feed table is .018” lower that than the fence side of the out feed table. This appears to be consistent along the user side.
I have done some more snooping around on the dovetail slide mechanism. It appears as though the “shims” have set screws to apply pressure and adjust the “slop” in the dovetail slide. If I take some pressure off, I could then insert some thin metal in the bottom of one side of the dovetail mechanism to raise the side in question. Then tighten screws back up. If my thinking is correct (usually is not) this should solve the problem. I’ll let you know when I get around to trying it.
Firstly can you post some pix? Just from my general messing with machines I still feel that there should be another bolt or mounting screw /screws that would allow you to loosen,tap up or down ,and tighten to make the adjustment.What i think you may be looking at are the gib screws .Usually all these do is adjust the slop/ wear in the dovetailed way.Sorry that this is rather general but it is the best I can offer.JWW if you are out there, wade in please Jako
gerketo1,
Try the Oldwoodworkingmachines site (owwm.com). If they don't have the information you need already posted, someone in their forum should be able to help. It's a very interesting and informative site even if you don't need help.
You might be able to make a shim for the ways out of an aluminum can. I assume you've tried adjusting the dovetailed ways to try and raise or lower the outfeed table? If I'm reading your question right, it's the fence that is not square to the outfeed table? I don't think that's a deal breaker as long as both infeed and outfeed are coplaner. You can check this by making a straight edge out of MDF. Cut the MDF to the length of your jointer. Put three screws in the edge of the MDF at the front, middle and rear of the straight edge. Put the board screw head side down on a flat refrence surface like a table saw and fiddle with the screws until they all make contact with the table and there is no rocking. You now have all three screws in the same plane. Put the straight edge across your jointer bed and see if all the screws touch. There is an article on how to do this in the FWW archive. The OWWM site is another wealth of info.
If you contact Delta's customer service dept., they have instructions to do 8-way table alignment available for your jointer. Not sure why, but these instructions are not included with their set-up instructions. I did this with my DJ-20 jointer after wrestling with it for a while, the results were well worth the effort. A word of caution in that this process requires a bit of patience and no distractions; my jointer took about 6 hours to get it dialed in, but like I said the results are well worth the time.
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