This is an area (of many) I know very little about. But, you know the clear, hard, plastic packaging everything comes in now days? Is there any way a small business could custom make their own packages?
For my handles and knobs, obviously. I need a handle pack. a knob pack. and a handle and knob pack. Anyone ever done anything like this? I’m thinking two plastic, mirror image, squares maybe 6″ square that can be spot melted together.
I did do some vacuum formed ABS plastic many years ago for some electric meter cases. Basically just heat lamps, a form, the plastic, and a vacuum pump.
Hmmm, I bet someone on Ebay sells something like that!
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
PlaneWood
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You're looking for information on "blister packs" or "bubble packs" (not to be confused with "bubble packaging/wrapping" which is the flexible sheet of plastic bubbles folks love to pop). Here's a link to get you started. I don't know anything else about it, sorry.
Mike I used to do all kinds of vacuum forming with plastic. It is really a simple process once you understand how it works. All you need is a master of what you want to form. A table built some what like a downdraft table and a heat source to soften the plastic. Your master is going to be a simple one because it is not a complex shape. You can form it so it is all on on the front side of the package and the back can be flat. That way you only need one mold of each handle. The master should be just a little larger than your product and all the corners need to be rounded off as not tear the soft plastic. A table can be a sealed box that is just a slight bigger than the finished handle. One side should have a connection for a shop vac and the top full of holes to allow air to be sucked out of the mold. You don't need much of a vacuum source as you are not trying to get the plastic to conform to a complex shape. As for heating the plastic a frame made out of metal angle stock fastened together in such a way that one face sits on top of the box and the other face hangs down past the side. The plastic will sit on top of this frame and be held in place with some flat metal stock. Once the plastic is in the frame then it is just to place it in the oven on low heat and watch it until the plastic starts to sag in the center. At this time turn on your vacuum and take the frame out of the oven and push it down over you box. Once the vacuum has removed enough air shut it off and wait a few seconds until the plastic cools and you are ready to make another. I have pics of the one I have at home but I will be another week before I get a chance to get any pictures of what I am talking about.
My box has a valve inside to allow me to remove large amounts of air at low pressure with a shop vac and then finish it off with a compressor to apply high amounts of pressure to obtain the detail I needed.
Scott C. Frankland
Was the Newfoundland Wood Worker soon to be the Nova Scotia Wood Worker.
Thanks Scott! Figured that was about all it was. Where do you get the plastic and what thickness should I get?
Could a heat lamp be the heat source?
How many can one make, say, in an hour?
Mike
PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood
With two frames one in the heat and one on the vacuum press you could make quite a few in a hour. It would on how well your setup works. Your heat source may be your limiting factor. Something like a oven is good because it is a contained unit that has a thermostat and is designed to provide a more even heat to the entire surface of the plastic. A heat lamp will work but it will need some tinkering with to get a good even heat. But from what I have seen with your drum sander you shouldn't have to many problems working out the bugs for a good heat source. The only thing you have to remember is that you want a even heat that will soften the plastic enough to get it to sag over its entire surface. If it is not even some areas will sag to much and will not give you a good even temp across the sheet which may cause you problems.
As for the plastic I would look at anything under 10 thousands of a inch. To thin will require a lot more procession than you maybe able to obtain on a home made unit though. I get my plastic supplies from a local distributor. I can get a 4' x 8' sheet for around 10-15 dollars Canadian. Also hobby stores that sell plastic models maybe able to help you find a source. They may even be able to introduce you to someone who has a vacuum press setup.Scott C. Frankland
Was the Newfoundland Wood Worker soon to be the Nova Scotia Wood Worker.
Hi Mike,
Splintie's link to the manufacturer could be what you're looking for. Here's two texan suppliers from a google search:
http://www.clam-shells.com/
http://www.formtex.com/clamshell-packaging.html
As another alternative, have you considered a simple plastic sleeve that you can drop your components into, then 'shrink' the plastic around the components by using a hot air gun or a hair drier. That is, something like an electrician's heatshrink insulation but on a bigger scale?
If so, I 'googled' and found 2000 links using the search terms of 'heatshrink wrapping' or '"heat shrink" wrapping. This was the first one that came up
http://www.rapit.com.au/c_poly.htm
http://www.shrinkwrapsolutions.com
Cheers, eddie.
edit: When I started typing this, there were 3 messages on the thread - looks as though you and Scott figured things out while I was typing away - good luck with this. eddie
Edited 12/14/2002 2:58:13 PM ET by eddie (aust)
I hate stuff thats packaged in that crud! The plastic always is tough as nails and its a pain to get out what youve just bought! And that plasitc can cut skin all up. And if you do manage to get it open the contents all fly out. Shears dont even seem to help with that aspect.
I wish i could avoid buying things that were packaged in that horrible manner.
I gotta chime in on this one as well - I also hate this kind of packaging! How many times have you cut or scraped yourself trying to get a product out of this kind of package? Too many to recall for me. I'll bet most manufacturers use it as a way to deter shoplifters (hard to hide such a big package, too hard to open in the store without letting out a few cuss words while opening it!). Just my opinion, but I'll stand by it....
Terry in Delray Beach, FL
I tend to agree, but what alternative would you suggest??
Mike
PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood
Are you trying to prepare them to ship to customers or to sell retail in a store where they would be subject to shop wear?
Edit: I'm thinking of the hand mirrors i sell that are "packaged" in pouches made from Pendelton Blanket scraps the manufacturer sells as drop. Think of a rectangle that is as wide as you need and twice as long plus 1". Fold the two narrow ends to the center and overlap by the inch. Stitch the long sides. Now you can slip the wood piece inside and the overlap keeps it from falling out. The material is so tightly woven it doesn't need hemstitching, and if Pendleton doesn't say "qualtiy" i don't know what does. However, it's a little bit of work to get the item in and out, so i don't think it would work in a store situation, though at my shows, i just display the mirrors lying on their blankies.
Edited 12/16/2002 11:46:37 PM ET by SPLINTIE
Mike even though I told you how to go about making the packaging I have to agree with the masses on this one. Unless I am going to start seeing your handles in local woodworking joints then wrapping them in shop towels may be all that is needed. I wouldn't buy a item just because of its packaging but would buy on the quality of the item. I have one of your handles on a Steve Knight plane and I love it. Have a few planes that when I get around to restoring them I will be sending for some handles and I could careless what they were packaged in as long as they got to me in one piece.Scott C. Frankland
Was the Newfoundland Wood Worker soon to be the Nova Scotia Wood Worker.
Mike, I think the plastic would cheapen the beautiful pieces you make. I'd rather receive a handmade piece rolled in a scrap of soft fabric and tied with twine or rawhide. Handmade products deserve a handmade package.
Edited 12/16/2002 7:13:22 PM ET by IANCUMMINS
Thank you! I sometimes feel guilty wrapping them in a shop towel and masking tape! Have to rethink that.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood
when you sent me two pair, i had no problem with shop towel and tape. However:
If youre looking to dress it up somewhat, id suggest tissue paper (the kind you use at christmas in presents) and a small box. On the box you could have stickers with your address and logo and an area to write in-hand what handles are included. The boxes are reuseable and could probably be made as your actual shipping container. Where your stickers could be put as your return label and the whte area for shipping info.
I agree on the cheapening aspect of plastic bubble wrap. You go from something thats hand made and finished to appearing like some Foriegn made item that wont generate the "hand made" object that it is. When i buy stuff thats in the plastic bubble wrap im not thinking quality... Im thinking what a pain in the #### it will be to open them up
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