Need help with PC 4210 / 4212
I am looking for some help using my 4212 dovetail jig. If you have one or the 4210, hopefully you could provide some insight.
First, Half-blind dovetails
I bought this jig about 9 months ago to make half-blind joints for 6 drawers. I milled extra stock, so that I had some exact width and thickness for making test cuts to get the setup right.
I was able to make a successful drawer box out of the extra stock (although smaller than the actual project size). The first drawer seemed to go together well. The remaining drawer boxes had a problem where the right front sat about 1/16″ above the right side, and the left back was about 1/16″ above the left side. The right back was about 1/16″ above the right side, and the left front was about 1/16″ above the left side. Any thoughts on how the joint could fit, but the sides not match up?
Second, Half-blinds again
I was recently trying to make half-blinds on 1/2″ stock. The guide book says that is possible. I could not get this to work. Anyone have a successful method for making half-blinds in 1/2″ stock?
Third, Box joints
I tried earlier to make some box joints. The joint does not seem tight enough. I can put this together and take it apart with no friction from the joint. Any thoughts on how to tighten this up?
Update on Box Joints. I measured the bit with my caliper – 0.502″. I then measured the area cut out on the wood at 0.51″ on average, and the uncut area at 0.49″ on average. Seems like the bit is taking a bigger bite. Perhaps the problem is the PC 690 series router, which is the same router I used on the dovetails. Is this fixable, or is it time for a new router?
Second Update on Box Joints. I finally took my big router out of the table and tried. Average cut out area of the wood is 0.507″. A little better than the first router, but at 0.014″ gap, I do not think the joint will hold.
Update on dovetails: Thanks to those who have offered advice. Yes, the stop has been checked more times than Santa checks his list. I did find how sensitive that can be during the initial set-up. Also, if any one has actually found a way to make a half-blind joint in 1/2″ stock, I would greatly appreciate it. The manuals lead one to believe this is possible, but I have had no success. I’d love to hear from folks who have actually attempted this, successful or not
Edited 1/5/2009 11:23 am ET by Redwoodie
Edited 1/12/2009 2:00 pm ET by Redwoodie
Replies
PC has a supplemental instruction guide here:
http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/Porter-Cable/A24033,4210%204212.pdf
Video too:
http://www.deltaportercable.com/jigs/dovetail/
I have one but haven't used it yet.
Edited 1/5/2009 3:02 am by polarsea1
Thanks. I have the supplemental manual, and those issues are not addressed. I don't recall that in the video either. I think the only troubleshooting PC offers is if the joints are too loose/tight, which is not my issue on the half-blinds.
Redwoodie,
If all your parts are square and true and you still have an offset the problem may be the stop on the jig. I have found if the stop is not seated perfectly with the jig body an out of square issue results. As you have seen this can cause the offset in your sides and fronts/backs.
After setting my spacing I loosen the cap screw and make sure the stop is firmly seated by holding pressure from above then re-tighten.
Good luck
Charles
I too have found that the offset guide needs extra precaution to get the stock square against it. if you get in a hurry and just put your stock up against it sometimes you won't notice but it will be off a little. I generally check the edge where the boards meet and if there is a slight gap, I try to make that alighn perfectly regardless of the guide stop.
If it is of too much the tail board and pin board wont be exactly square to one another, rendering it useless. I have had to fiddle with it to 'make'my drawers as good as I can not having a ointer or planer.
As for Half blind joints in /12 inch stock the preset guide depth is for 3/4 maybe you need to adjust for 1/2 inch. I am guessing here because I don't use mine everyday.Webby
Redwoodie
1st - Box joints on the jig - you will need to purchase a different size router bit for the jig if you want to create box joints on it. You need a 1/2 bit that does not come with the kit. please be aware this is the only size you can use and this is the only size that the jig can make. The PC jig does a decent job on box joints but even with the extra bit you just cant adjust the jig for fine tuning plus it does not allow you the ability to miter top of the the joint.
2nd - please advise if i am wrong but the problem with your alignment issue sounds like the way you are placing the stock in the jig. each piece needs to be flipped end over end when you use it in the jig or you will never be able to create an aligned draw or box. Make sure you are placing the stock in the jig correctly to achive precise alignment.
Good luck, hope this helps
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