Hello everyone. Thanks for reading this post. I am currently getting ready to build a hard maple dining table for my wife so we can use our patio furniture where it belongs, on the patio. Anyway, she loves the look of the natural maple and gets very irritated when i tell her most finishes will yellow over time. Does anyone know of a finish that will either not yellow at all or at least take a very long time to yellow so at least she won’t notice? It also needs to be an extremely durable finish as it will be a well used kitchen table.
Thanks again
-Alex Fosse
Tucson, AZ
Replies
Alex
Most water based top coats will not yellow. I have had good experiences with General Finishes Polyacrylic and with Crystalc, a water based laquer. I have used both on maple and they have not "yellowed" at all. I am sure there are other brands of water based finish that would work as well. Good luck with the finish, and the wife.
CAB/Acrylic lacquer won't yellow. It's often referred to by the shorthand handle of simply "CAB Lacquer."
Automotive acrylic lacquer would work too. Both will need to be applied with spray equipment.
If you need something that doesn't require spray equipment then go with an Acrylic Latex varnish. Pratt & Lambert makes one. I presume many of their competitors do too.
Although you didn't mention moisture resistance as part of your criteria, I would suggest a very thin washcoat of super blond Shellac or a vinyl sanding sealer first and then apply your finish of choice over that.
In some cases the water based products don't give a lot of depth to the finish...several coats of SUPER blond dewaxed shellac to give depth followed by a three coats of Hydracote cat lac. should do the trick. This is also a great way to get a deep look on cabinets with waterbased clear coats. Get the Hydracote from Highland Hardware catalogue.
Keep in mind that while some finishes will not add any amber to the wood initially, the maple itself will yellow and brown over time with exposure to UV. Some folks like the patina.
You just reminded me of a new product from Sherwin Williams that I just heard about earlier this week. It's a new "Hi-Bild" precat lacquer with UV inhibiters added specifically to reduce wood oxidation under the finish. They claim that it's "pale water white" which isn't probably quite as non-yellow as Acrylic but pretty darn close to it. Sounds like it'll be ideal for Cherry and like woods that darken easily and quickly.
>> UV inhibiters added specifically to reduce wood oxidation under the finish.UV inhibitors lose their effectiveness rather quickly. Most are completely ineffective within a year.Howie.........
Look at the Target Coatiings at http://www.homesteadfinishing.com.
There are some brushing WB coatings, but spray is the best. If you're going to spend big $ on the table, and don't want to invest in a gun, a local refinisher will do it for a resonable price.
I second "Burl's" suggestion for General Finishes Polycrylic. I get mine from Woodcraft. I have tried at least 10 WB polys and the GF P is best - hands down - and it is so easy to use. I brush mine (with a 'good' brush') and the brush marks flow out so you don't see them. Polish it up with Abralon pads in a ROS.
Frosty
Couple of points.
If you don't have spraying equipment, CAB Lacuer, and pre and post cat lacquer are not options. Standard lacquer will yellow over time and is not a very durable finish for a kitchen table application. Household detergents tend to cause it to fail.
Waterborne acrylic finishs are an option for either brushing or spraying. They are about as durable as standard lacquer which means that they would not be the first choice. They are also more affected by cleaning products than standard lacquer.
The most durable and protective finishes are oil based varnish, two part lacquers and polyester. The last two are the primary finishes used on factory kitchen tables and many other funiture items used these days. However, these finishes also are for professional use and there are some serious issues with skin contact and inhalation. The best hand applied durable finish is oil based varnish.
Thankyou all so much for the info. It has been a great help in my ongoing research concerning this topic. I will probably do a brushed on finish as it is more suited to my small work space, although I may use it as an excuse to get some spray equipment. The fumes aren't a problem, I'm a chemist in real life. Anyway thanks again so very much.-Alex
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