I have a client that wants pocket doors for his entertainment cabinet. The doors are 22″ square and the cabinet is 22″ deep. He doesn’t want the doors sticking out much more than an inch when they’re in the pocket. My problem is that all the pocket door hardware I’ve seen is designed to loose over 4″ on the slide rail which means these doors will stick out 4″ or more.
Anyone know of a different way to do pocket doors?
Is there something I can do with pins and/or sliding dovetails?
Thanks, molten
Replies
Best way to solve this problem is to recess the hardware into the wall , you will gain about 3 1/2" or more, depending on wall thickness. Just can't(sorta could, but probably not legal) on a exterior wall. Just hope the studs are in the right place.
Iv'e done this more than once for the client who "doesn't want it sticking out"
What design freedoms do you have? For instance...
* Do you have width you can use inside the cabinet, or is the entire width already dedicated to other uses?
* Could you other kinds of door systems? For instance, hinged doors or tambour doors?
You can hinge each door in the middle and fold them in half before they slide into the sides using conventional pocket door hardware.
John W.
I recently did a raised panel door where I glued the panel in its groove, then sliced the door vertically into tambour slats. When the tambour is closed it resembles other raised panel doors on the cabinet but yet slides neatly away to reveal the TV. With a cabinet as deep as the door is wide, this system looses no depth of the cabinet and takes up about the same width as the pocket doors.
Sorry, forgot to mention an important fact: these will be glass doors.
I made this entertainment center for a customer a few months ago that used folding 'flipper' doors that slid back into the unit.
I got the door hardware from Accurride and locking bifold hinges from Rockler. If i can find the paperwork, I'll post the specifics.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled