Replies

1. 
   aksophie | Nov 27, 2003 02:27am | #1

   "... builtÊit with 4 legs in each corner."

   Well, sixteen legs ought to be plenty but it sounds as if you need a few more......toward the center.

   The steel reinforcement may also work, but the depth of steel needed may surprise you. Clamp in a piece for a trial, before you get carried away converting the cabinet to accomodate it.

2. 
   DougF | Nov 27, 2003 02:28am | #2

   Hi Buck,

   I'm not sure what "4 legs in each corner means" but I suspect that it really doesn't matter since the middle is the problem.  Not knowing what the design is, of course legs strategically space across the width of the cabinet will do the job.  Given the dimensions and weight of the piece, I would opt for a solid base and completely eliminate the legs.   The base can be constructed as a separate unit and the cabinet can slot right on top of it.    Good luck with the project.

   Doug

3. 
   Sancho | Nov 27, 2003 02:50am | #3

   Need more info..what mat'l is it madde outta and thickness ect...

    

   Darkworksite4:

   Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

1. 
   boro73 | Nov 27, 2003 04:01am | #5

   Sorry about the confusion. I should have said "4 legs, one in each corner." The case is constructed out of some really nice c-select pine. I dovetailed the top corners of the case and dados for the bottom. The legs are shaker in stlye with a slight curve. The bottom rail of the face frame is 3" off the ground.

   Sophie,

   I certainly agree with the suprising lack of strenght in a piece of angle iron. Clamping fist is a good idea.

   Doug,

   I like the idea of a solid base however I'm not sure the soon to be owner will.

1. 
   JMartinsky | Nov 27, 2003 04:09am | #6

   Is the back on it yet?

   John

4. 
   BobSmalser | Nov 27, 2003 04:00am | #4

   Sounds like you need to make sure your design has two door stiles in the center front...that'll be enuf, I believe.

5. 
   Midnight | Nov 27, 2003 04:36am | #7

   Angle iron....???

   no no noooooooooo....... sheesh

   The prob is your unsupported span length; it needs bracing of some kind. Near as I can figure (angle iron and hammered rivots aside0 there's 2 ways to go about it. First way is to add a central vertical partition running fully top to bottom. This reduces the length of the unsupported span making the carcass stiffer.

   The second  way is to stiffen the pieces spanning the carcass. A face frame around the bottom part of the case should stop the doors from binding. For the shelves, a brace along the underside of their outer edges works wonders.

   In both cases, adding a tight fitting (i.e. rebated) back board lends a terrific amount of strength.

   To stiffen the bottom frame, infill between the legs with solid board.

   Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

1. 
   boro73 | Nov 27, 2003 05:27am | #8

   This is the first time I've visited and participated in an online forum of any kind. I must say, Im very pleased. Im sure not all online forums are like this one but I do appreciate all the great feedback in such a short amount of time. Now, back to the case.

   I've yet to install the back of the case (1/2" lap joint, pine, various widths). Once I do, I'll asses the movement and most likely add two legs directly under the stiles(if needed). If done in a proper scale It should look....ummm....sexy?

   I just found a nice 4/4 sugar maple board so maybe I'll put a nice crown on it and infill as Mike suggested.

   Thanks to all!

   Dave

1. 
   ian | Nov 27, 2003 02:56pm | #9

   Dave

   In part your problem and its solution is one of design.  No I don't mean you got it wrong, but what you do from here will, to a large part, be governed by what looks right for you. 

   76in is a very long span.  Your case has three doors in the bottom section so my immediate reaction is to carry the door styles to the top of the case breaking your 76" span into three 25" spans.  If this doesn't look right to you could put a lip on the shelves and put a thick (say 3/4") plywood back on the case and tie the shelves to the back.  This should work, but the shelves would then be fixed rather than adjustable.