I’m builiding a half round (approx. 33″ diameter) cherry “occational” table and need advice on the leg design. I’m planning to use tapered legs. For this type of table is it more appropriate to taper two or all four sides of the legs?
Thanks!
I’m builiding a half round (approx. 33″ diameter) cherry “occational” table and need advice on the leg design. I’m planning to use tapered legs. For this type of table is it more appropriate to taper two or all four sides of the legs?
Thanks!
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Replies
In general (i.e., not specific to a semi-circular table), one convention is to taper only the inside faces of each leg, as you seem to be aware. My understanding of the rationale behind this is that it avoids an appearance of instability due to a diminishing base.
On the other hand, Sheraton, in his _Dictionary of Furniture_, wrote:
"TAPER, or THERM. To taper table or chair legs, is
to diminish their thickness towards the ground. Tapered
legs look handsome in work, but to me they appear quite
unnatural, to take all the tapering from the inside, as is
the practice of some workmen. ..."
So there are definitely two schools of thought on this.
In the instance of a semi-circular table, I don't think you have much choice but to taper all four faces of the legs. Assuming a semi-circular apron, at least two of the legs don't have just two adjacent "inside" faces, making it problematic to take the two-face approach.
If you are concerned about an appearance of instability, maybe the use of spade feet would help to add some visual weight at the base.
Don McConnell
Eureka Springs, AR
Thanks for your advise. I agree that 4 sided tapering would be best. Is there a best or safe way to make 4 sided taperd legs using a typical commercial metal table saw taping jig? I've done many 2 sided tapers but not 4 sided.
Do you have a planer? If so, build a sled to hold the legs and taper them by running them through the planer. I've done this, followed by using a 45 degree chamfer bit on a router table to make tapered octagonal legs.Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
grind,
My preference is to taper only the inside faces of the legs. On a semicircular table, typically there are two legs at the "corners" of the table, at each end of the back or flat side, and two "middle" legs somewhere along the curved apron. Tapering the two inside faces of the corner legs, and all three inside faces of the legs on the curved apron (so all have the same size footprint), looks best in my opinion. This leaves the outside face of each leg vertical, and in line with the plane of the apron, avoiding a toed-in, or pigeon-toed, appearance. Of course, the amount of taper is less on the two opposing faces of the middle legs, requiring a different set up of the tapering jig.
Regards,
Ray Pine
Thanks to everyone for your great advice!!
My preference is tapering the two inside faces of the rear legs and three faces of the front legs, or, taper only two inside faces on all four legs. There are no 'rules'. Let table width, apron depth, wood stock and use of inlays be your guide.
A taper is pretty easy to achieve on a jointer.
You can clamp a stop on the infeed table where you would put the bottom of the leg to begin the cut with the beginning of the taper measured to the beginning of the outfeed table.
If you have the jointer set for 1/8", and you want to taper each face 3/8", then you would make three passes on each side.
To do this, you would grip the leg with your right hand near the bottom, and your left hand near the top, so it is behind the cutter on the outfeed end. Lower the work into the cutter slowly, and start feeding with your right hand moving the work along, and your left hand holding the leg down against the outfeed table just behind the cutter-head.
I think this is quicker and easier than having to deal with taper jigs on the TS, then having to clean up the saw marks afterwards.
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