Replies

1. 
   Dyeman | Dec 18, 2006 01:04am | #1

   Green TransTint in Fuhr will neutralize the redness, without darkening. It's best to use small amounts of the green until you get the hang of correction toning. It's best to cut back on the fluid delivery and use an 8" pattern and "fog" on the toner. This will leave a rough surface so you have to apply another clear coat.

   Unfortuately there's no effective way of doing this without spraying that I know of.

    

    

1. 
   Mumda | Dec 18, 2006 01:23am | #2

   Thanks. I will give that a shot. I spray everything so I'm used to it, I just hope it works because I really don't want to sand everything down!

2. 
   Mumda | Dec 22, 2006 02:05am | #3

   Hey Jeff...err...I mean Dyeman: the toning didn't work out. I tried very light green all the way to a lot of green. Light green didn't take out all the red and dark green made it darker.So...what's the best way to strip this job down to raw Cherry and start over?Thanks!

1. 
   Dyeman | Dec 22, 2006 02:14am | #4

   If it didn't neutralize it enough then yes- you have to re-do it.

1. 
   Mumda | Dec 22, 2006 02:59am | #5

   Thanks, I understand that part. But what's the best way to strip off this water base Fuhr and TransTint dye? Is there a stripper I can use or just start sanding?Thanks again.

1. 
   Dyeman | Dec 22, 2006 06:36pm | #7

   You can sand or scrape it off. Chemical strippers can be used as well.

    

2. 
   loucarabasi | Dec 22, 2006 04:10am | #6

   Mumba, can you use  solvent based finishes, such as lacquers in the futer? Toning down or up is a breeze. ML Cambell finishes are the best.

   Good Luck, Lou

1. 
   Mumda | Dec 24, 2006 02:03am | #8

   Where my shop is, there's so many restrictions enforced by the local authorities about using solvent based finishes. It's easier and less $$ to use water base.Thanks, Mumda

1. 
   loucarabasi | Dec 24, 2006 03:17am | #9

   I hear you, been under the radar myself but I do follow the guidelines anyway. been thinking of my health lately, I may switch to non solvent.

   -Lou

2. 
   Pondfish | Dec 24, 2006 05:40am | #10

   Tint clear shellac and apply as a topcoat over the varnish.  Should be EPA-Ok to spray an alcohol finish.  The only risk is shellac softens at 150 degrees.

   And get the client's OK (written) on a sample before proceeding.

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
1. 
   Mumda | Dec 24, 2006 05:26pm | #12

   Thanks, I did have their OK on a sample. The lighting in the room changed therefore they want a different color than was first chosen. They are eating the costs involved since it's their change. I am just looking for the fastest way to do it and move on.

3. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 24, 2006 06:36am | #11

   Two ideas:

   A buddy mixes TransTint dyes with naphtha and shoots the resulting mixture, using a detail gun, as a quick & easy method of toning/shading - goes right over the existing finish.

   I will sometimes "antique" a finish by wiping on oil (Liberon Finishing Oil or Minwax Antique Oil); while the oil is wet, I'll apply a little oil-based burnt umber UTC (or other suitable color) to a rag, which I'll wipe on while the oil is still wet.

   Good luck with your challenge! Please let us know how it works out.

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   Mumda | Dec 24, 2006 05:29pm | #13

   Thanks Jazz. I have no problem with toning with water base as I do it often. I am just having a problem with changing this job from red to brown without making it any darker since it is VERY red and they want it VERY brown now.Nothing a little sand paper and elbow grease won't fix.