I have read many posts and the FWW article about various polys. I tried several diff ones last night. I am not setup for spraying so I am stuck with brushing, and preferred the rub on poly. I found the Varathane version of rub-on poly, but at $18/q it adds up. I read the recent post regarding mixing, but am still confused. Can I dilute the fast dry poly and apply the same as rub on polys? Mixture suggestion? Or should I be using a spar varnish?
Thanks.
Replies
No reason to use a spar varnish. Spar varnish isn't more water proof than ordinary varnishes, it's reason for being used in the marine setting is that it is more flexible that ordinary varnishes. It's also softer, which is one reason that yacht owners with varnished bright work only allow guests and crew to wear soft sole shoes. (The other reason is that they are less likely to fall overboard with boat shoes rather than street shoes. The relative importance of the two motivations varies among boat owners.)
Yes, you can get very similar results by thinning your own varnish. Adding 50% thinner is often recommended, but you can start with less thinner and see how you like the way it works. The less thinner you end up with the fewer coats that you need.
Thanks, I have read many of your posts and can see you know your stuff. I have been reading Jeff's book, trying to improve my understanding of finishes but there are so many products on the market it gets confusing. What is your opinion on the water based finishes available? As I am sure you figured out, I am a hobbiest and build items for the house only. I do not have a proper ventilation system to extract finishing fumes, and after finishing in the shop again last night, I am contemplating avoiding the oil based products. Its about to get cold in my neck of the woods, so windows being open is nice to avoid when possible.
Waterborne finishes also have fumes that you don't want to breathe, they just aren't fumes that can explode.
I tend to be happiest with oil based products. The bath vanity I am building now will have a traditional resin varnish as the top coat.
That said, waterborne products have improved considerably in recent years and many perform quite well. For a good overview, albeit written by someone who is a solid supporter of the concept, the current issue of FWW has a breakdown of various waterborne finish types. I've also got 30 interior doors to finish coming up, and they will be sprayed with a waterborne pigmented finish since I certainly don't want to paint all those paneled doors with a brush.
thanks for the reply. I was told the floor finishes such as Bona do not have the smell and cure quickly. I assume the reason those are not used on furniture or cabinetry is they lack the degree of gloss most want to achieve.
You can get gloss and semi gloss as well as satin in the Bona Kemi line. But these are designed for floors and consequently must level well even though they dry quickly. As a consequence, they may tend to sag more readily on vertical surfaces found on furniture. This is discussed in the article on water-based finishes in the Dec. 07 issue of FWW.
I will read the article before pestering with more q's. It has not hit our newstand yet, and I have not downloaded yet.
Thanks again
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