New air tank corrosion prevention
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I recall reading about a product that is sprayed into a new air tank and it prevents russting and corrosion. I just bought a new (oil lubricated) air compressor and would like to prevent future problems. If anyone knows of such a material or has some other advice related thereunto I would much appreciate receiving it.
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Bear in mind that the o rings on most tools don't like mineral oils.I would suggest that a filter /separator is put on the outlet if you add anything to the tank.
Thanks for the observatiion. The material I read about is supposed to bond to the new metal and create a barrier to rust etc. Perhaps something like the Bioshield T-9. Its supposed to protect exposed metal ie jointer tables. Has not seemed to make much of a difference to me but I probably don't use it often enough. How wise it would it be to spray into an air tank is what I am trying to find out. Or is there another product that would work better?
I sprayed rust check the auto stuff into one compressor that I knew was rusted through after I welded the leaks It seemed to stop the rusty water and did not seem to effect the finishes I sprayed (Pre-cat and automotive acrylic enamel with isocyanate hardener)or my nail guns.Note that I have separators on all my compessors and I stress the word SEEM!!.However the tank went again in several other places a year or so later.This time I took a cutting wheel to the tank to stop me from trying to weld again(tempting though it was)DO NOT attempt repairing tanks unless you want to dance with death. If it ruptures it is a shapnel bomb.In conclusion I think you will find that the safest bet is no additives to the tank,drain it daily and look on the tank as a disposable item.With a bit of ingenuity you can some times cobble the pump (if worth saving )to a new tank even if the original is obselete.If you have already put stuff in the tank add a separator .I hope this is of some help!
By all means don't put anything in your tank! You'll pay big time....foreign contaminates in your sprayer, guns, etc.
If you have moisture problems, try this inexpensive alternative I found:
http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/compressor/
Best, John
BINGO!
Standing water ruins the tank... Less water.. Less rust!
Will, are American tanks still fitted with drain taps, or are these now optional accessories/retro fit/tune-ups?(;)Philip Marcou
Hello Bak, I think its a good idea to get into the habit of draining the tank after each use. If you plumb your shop with air be sure to include drains and angle the plumbing to the drains. I would be afraid that anything sprayed in would eventually spray out,usually at a bad time. Good luck, AB
All the ones I have used have a drain.. Not sure if ALL do?
Most all AC's have a drain on them, but most manufacturers use a cheap drain cock that after a while becomes difficult at best to open. Strongly recomend changing it out for a ball valve; it will be easier to open and thus more likely to drain compressor daily. Stinking manufacturers need to stop being so damn cheap.
Actually I was funning Will George, him being a tanky during the world wars and all.:):Philip Marcou
Actually I was funning Will George, him being a tanky during the world wars and all.:):No drains in my Tank Retriver air tanks but a 0.50 cal. round through it worked OK! Took a bit of welding to fix things though! LOL..
Not really... all had a Iron plug ya took out as I remembers...LONG ago
Hello Will.
I have seen a condenser, home built with I think, 20' of pipe going up the side of a shop wall, in back of the compressor. Supposedly, this zig-zig pipe lets all the mositure condence, and run back down the pipe to a tee, where by it falls into straight section of pipe at the bottom, and below the compressor tank, to collect, and to be discharged with a ball valve. The factory installed valve on the compressor tank, can be changed with a spring activated valve that is used on compressed air tanks on trucks. With a simple tug on the chain or line of some kind, the mositure in the compressor tank can be discharged with a single fast pull. If your clever, a small dia. of copper tubing can be install to the drain pipe that collects the moisture from the pipe condenser. The idea, keeping all the condensation away from the compressor tank.
I have a friend who was using this used hot water heater tank to store compressed air. I was living with him at the time and after a morning of working in his shop, we took a lunch break in his kitchen. When we heard this explosion in the shop! The hot water tank exploded, and the damage it did, when relasing all that energy, compressed air at 120 pounds, would have killed one or both of us. I should have taken pictures, you wouldn't believe the damage! enough said.
Did you have a good pop off valve on the hot water tank? A gas man told me that the reason it was against the law to use an old pop off valve on a new installation was that if it was not working right and the pressure was allowed to build up, it could level a two story house.
When water turns to steam, the volume required is multiplied by 1700 times....
Philip Marcou
I will tell you Tinker, it was not my set up, thank God. I never gave it a thought, and I guess my buddy didn't either. As I recall, the hot water tank was tested and passed at 150 lb's, or more, of pressure, and he was using only 120 pounds, I guess he thought he was operating the tank at a safe level,------lets think again! I will tell you, we were both impressed with the results of the exploding tank! As for safty valves, and other safty features on the hot water tank, I have no idea. I'm just glad I was chowing down a peanut butter sanwich, with a wall between us! It was a weld seam on the tank that gave-way. Had it been water that burst the tank, the pressure would have equalized after, what, a pint of water, or less, had leaked out? But air, how many cubic feet of air, at 120 pounds had to escape, before the tank equalized? A few, I think! LOL.
You only appreciate the effect of air pressure after you see the results of an explosion. So far I have escaped that experience. I'm sure you're right about water, but steam, I think" would compare more with air pressure. I'm glad you were in the other room.
That makes two of us Tinkerer! About a nano second after the explosion, I applied the "Death Grip" to my peanut butter sandwich! My buddy, had to change his shorts! I had to wash my hands..............Pop
Supposedly, this zig-zig pipe lets all the mositure condence, and run back down the pipe to a tee, where by it falls into straight section of pipe at the bottom, and below the compressor tank, to collect, and to be discharged with a ball valve.Not sure so long ago.... I'm gettin' old,,,Power plant that used 'dry' steam for the generator off the boilers.. (Four boilers about two stories high (Two workin' and I was cleanin' out the other two!) ).. Think they had sort of what you described.. Hell! Water in the cylinder would cause the pistom to blow the head off! AND that head was about 3 inch thick steel ans as I recall about 10 foot in diameter! Not sure how big but.. BIG!
WillGeorge, welcome to the "Getting old Club"
I think that zig/zag condenser pipe has to be around 20 feet, in order to do its job. And in the plant where you worked, they probably "Super Heated" the steam before it was used in the generator turbines, very dangerous stuff, as you pointed out. I was told, that super heated steam leak would condense some distance from the leak its self, and the thing you would never want to do, is to search for the leak with your hand, I was told it would cut it right off. You would use a broom handle, and it would cut it off instead. I saw a demostration, using a tea pot sitting on a stove top, with a 1/4" copper tubing attached to the steam discharge end of the pot. That copper tube was coiled tightly. When the water came to a boil, the steam was aimed at a fan, no big deal until a hand held propane tourch was put to the coil of copper tubing, there by re-heatin the steam, now we are talking about some kind of energy! That fan probably tripled its RPM, or better.................Pop
Certainly don't try to fix your tank. Throw it out! I bought a compressor which forces the air through a radiator mounted in front of the large pulley ( 18" dia) which has angled spokes to act as a fan. This cools the air before it enters the tank. The throry is that cool air will not hold water while hot air does. Upon entry into the tank, the water condences on the walls and accumulates at the bottom where there is an automatic drain. I can sandblast continuously for hours on end without a single drop of water coming through. The water separator never has anything in it.
The tank is likely already treated inside. Drain it regularly, that is the best advice. Oiled comperssors will always have a light coating of oil inside the tank. The best defense is to get an automatic drain thing. It is a real simple selinoid valve that drains the water out of the bottom of the tank every few hours. They arent very expensive but can be hard to find. Check the net, make sure the voltage matches the compressor's.
Mike
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