Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 15, 2003 08:58pm | #1

   Are you buying the bandsaw only to make the tapered legs?  'cause there are other ways to go for sure -- on the tablesaw or even on the jointer.  That being said, here's a thread with feedback from G0555 owners:
   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=12073.1

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   JMartinsky | Oct 15, 2003 09:54pm | #2

   Thanks for the thread! Very helpful! I have considered the table-saw and the jointer, but I thought that I would get more consistent results with the band-saw. Other than freehand, I'm not sure how one would cut tapered stock on the table-saw and although I like my jointer, I am inexperienced with it. Thanks for your help FG, yours is one of the opinions that I value most!

   Thanks Again,

   John

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 15, 2003 10:33pm | #3

   John, I've not attempt tapers yet myself, but I'd imagine the bandsaw is probably the safest way to do them.  Below is a link to Taunton's on-line tapering article, which includes methods on bandsaw, tablesaw and planer (planer would be real safe too!).  The second link is to a Popular WWing article on tapering with a jointer.

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00036.asphttp://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea23sidebar.html

   I bought a book titled "Jointers and Planers" by Eric Smith and found it very helpful.  Near as I can tell, it's the only book out there with a major section on jointers and the different, unexpected things you can do with them.  It's just a little over $10, click here for Amazon link.

   Don't want to spoil your fun picking out a band saw though, go for it!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   JMartinsky | Oct 16, 2003 01:26am | #5

   You see right through me!!

   John

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 16, 2003 02:22am | #6

   I've had lots of practice -- introspection, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   rreeger | Oct 16, 2003 02:41am | #7

   FWIW...  I have done some tapered legs for a dining table.  Thought I was going to do them free hand on a bandsaw, like you are contemplating.  Had an old cabinetmaker talk me into doing them on the jointer.  Boy was I glad he did!  The legs turned out great and everyone involved was happy.  Next time, I may try to do the tapers on a bandsaw, but at least I know that I can produce good, quick results with the jointer.

   RR

1. 
   JMartinsky | Oct 16, 2003 04:56am | #8

   Well, this is going a route that I hadn't expected! I was going to "get them close" on the bandsaw and finish them on the jointer. You are suggesting that I would be better off starting with square stock, making multiple, short passes getting gradually longer with each pass? Then I don't get to buy a saw! I am teasing (sort of) is this the proceedure that you followed?

   Thanks again!!

   John

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 16, 2003 07:14am | #9

   Hi, John, Jamie interrupting here.  I just took the time to scan that Popular WWing link posted earlier, and compare it with the jointer-tapering technique described in the Jointer and Planers book.   

   The technique in the book is the one I've seen described in other place (sheesh, wish Richard was still around -- we need him here).  You mark the top of the taper on all 4 sides of the leg, line up the mark with a fence mark indicating the start of the outfeed table, and lower the stock onto the cutterhead, starting to feed immediately when the stock encounters the knives.  [using a pusher, for sure!]  Then rotate the stock 1/4-turn and do the next side, round and round until you get one pass away from the size you want.  Then set the jointer to a shallow cut to get a nice clean final pass.  The pictures in the book help make it more clear than I can here.

   Looks like the latter part of the procedure described in the article is similar, but he establishes the narrowest part of the foot first.  What I can't tell is how many sides he's tapering in that article.

   Personally, I think you really, really need to buy that bandsaw and make sure that technique isn't satisfactory before you endanger yourself using the jointer.  Got that?  Very important advice, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   MHargrove | Oct 16, 2003 08:14am | #10

   FG's description is correct.  I'll add that you keep pressure on the INFEED side of the table when you're tapering.

   I do all my tapers on my jointer.  It works beautifully as long as you have the patience for the multiple passes required.  To get a consistent starting point, clamp a stop block to the infeed table, set the foot of the leg against the stop block, then lower the leg onto the cutter head.  Even if you've set the infeed table 1/8" below the outfeed, you'll get surprisingly little "bite" from the cutterhead until you actually start to feed the leg.

   As FG said, push blocks are a must, but the whole operation feels very safe to me, whereas tapering on the TS scares the crap out of me -- which probably just means I don't have the right jig for it yet.

   Now, all that said, I also own the Grizzly 555 bandsaw, and I'm happy with it.  It's a good value for the money.

   -M.

3. 
   rreeger | Oct 16, 2003 05:02pm | #12

   The procedure I followed was like that described by Forestgirl and MarkH.  Just wanted to throw it out there as a viable option.  In no way did I mean to imply that you did not need to buy a new saw...  of any kind!  In fact, I highly recommend that you do get a new saw as a backup to this method.  :-)

   RR

4. 
   JMartinsky | Oct 17, 2003 04:16am | #15

   That's what we need to hear! Thanks!

   John

5. 
   ian | Oct 21, 2003 08:37am | #18

   John

   my last project incorporated tapered legs and by far the easiest way was to cut them on the table saw using a jig, with a pass or two with a finely set hand plane to remove the tool marks.

   However, I find the bandsaw by far the most useful power saw in the shop.  It spends most of it's time sittting within one step of the bench.  Get one for all the other things it can do, not just the ability to freehand cut to a line. 

3. 
   Telemike | Oct 16, 2003 08:16am | #11

   I'm a little alarmed at your post. You mentioned cutting tapers on the table saw freehand. Well, you can cut freehand pretty well on the bandsaw when you learn to follow a line (actually, the outside edge of the line).

   PLEASE, DON'T EVER EVEN THINK ABOUT CUTTING FREEHAND ON THE TABLESAW. You're likely to lever the back of the cut onto the rising teeth on the back of the saw. It's amazing how much traction those teeth have on the board and how much speed the board can pick up in a 1/4 blink of your eye!

   And, if you're hold the board anyway other than just right, your hand gets dragged into the blade as a bonus!

   The forums and lots of magazines have taper jigs for the table saw. Some of these cause armpit sweating. They are OK if your cautious and careful - but NEVER CUT FREE HAND ON THE TABLESAW!

   I'd rough cut on the band saw and use a plane to smooth out the cut marks if the tapered portions were small. Otherwise, I'd use my nifty homemade taperjig on the tablesaw (without guard) and be very very careful, keeping several fingers on the forward hand on the opposite side of the fence from the blade to minimize the chance of a kickback dragging my hand into the blade. This doesn't happen often, but ruins your day.

   PS: Someone will now post a description of 40 years of freehand cutting without an accident. Any my grandpa smoked for forty years with no health problems - then he died of lung cancer.

   Edited 10/16/2003 1:21:06 AM ET by telemiketoo

   Edited 10/16/2003 1:22:36 AM ET by telemiketoo

1. 
   JMartinsky | Oct 17, 2003 04:15am | #14

   That's why they call me Johnny eight fingers! I'm kidding. As a proffessional, I have learned to take the calculated risk. Freehand on the tablesaw can be done, I'm not recommending it by any means, and I won't go into details, but under certain circumstances, it can be done. That being said, I was never considiring attempting to freehand table legs on the table saw. I was more making the point that I wasn't sure how to approach this. I appretiate your concern. Thanks!

   John

2. 
   SawdustRay | Oct 16, 2003 01:10am | #4

   I just bought my first bandsaw this year and love it.  I haven't found it difficult to cut a straight line free hand as you might do with a taper.  Your blade choice and tension is important.

   When I was researching bandsaws I bought Lonnie Bird's Bandsaw Book and found it extremely helpful.  You can get it from the Taunton Press...

   http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/070406.asp

   A little reading and research up front will go a long way.  Sounds like you're on the right track.

   Good luck!

1. 
   JMartinsky | Oct 17, 2003 04:07am | #13

   What saw do you own?

   John

1. 
   SawdustRay | Oct 20, 2003 08:59pm | #16

   I bought the Jet 16" steel frame.  I got it at a woodworker's show and it was the floor model but hadn't been used.  Got a 10% discount.  I was ready to buy it a few months earlier but had been told by woodworker friends to wait for the show and possibly get a good deal.  They were right.

   After reading Lonnie's book I was pretty much sold on the steel frame.  Since this is my first bandsaw I really don't have much to compare it to but can tell you I love it.  The bottom guides are a hassle to adjust, though.  I like the table height.  I'm 5'9" and the cast iron models had the table a little to high for me.  That might sound like a minor point but the ergonomics of the machine are important for me.  I have to be comfortable using it.  I was re-sawing 10" thick walnut this weekend with a 3/4", hook tooth, three tpi blade this weekend and the saw just breezed right through it.  Others might say that's nothing extrordinary but I was impressed and it fits my woodworking needs.  MiniMax makes a great product - commercial quality - but it's also about twice as much.

3. 
   jako17 | Oct 21, 2003 01:38am | #17

   Don't use tapered legs as an excuse to buy a band saw.The most efficient way to cut them is on a table saw then one light pass over the jointer.The band saw route is, IMO, a 'make work project'. Make a tapering jig for the saw ,which will take 15 mins and spend the next 45 mins to taper the legs.There are lots of drawings of such jigs almost every book on the table saw has one