I am going to finish a brand new maple butcher block. The owner wants a warm amber hue and he wants it to be an oil finish. I chose Tried and True Danish Oil, to be followed by a few coats of their Original Finish. I picked this because I believed the linseed oil formulation would help impart a nice amber hue. But on a test sample, the Danish oil looked nearly clear and the maple remains much too white. Does anyone have any suggestions for what I might do while keeping on track with an oil, non-toxic finish that will be used as a food preparation surface? Thank you in advance.
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast -
Our favorite articles and videos -
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
what do you mean when you say butcher block? end grain or just laminated stock
ron
No, it is not end grain.
then it is not a butcher block.
if you used linseed oil that is all that has to be done for the colour to change. time will do the rest as far as the colour goes.
is this just going to be countertop or is it to be used for cutting. what is the size of it
Hmmm... Even if it's not
Hmmm... Even if it's not technically a 'butcher block', it's a couple hundred pounds of maple now permanently installed in someone's kitchen. It is approximately 3'X 4'. It will be used as a table and also as a working surface, which rules out a film finish. The owner is fine with it, except the maple is too white.
If memory serves, I believe the brand name of this piece is Weldwood. It came with some kind of very thin film finish on it, which the cabinet finish guy stripped in anticipation of an oiled finish. I later sanded the piece thorougly with 220, then 340 grit. I am assuming that between the chemical stripper and the sanding that any trace of a previous film finish is gone.
The family has two very small children and they emphasized that whatever finish used should be 'food safe'. So I picked Tried and True having had some success with it on a set of cherry doors I built. I spoke to someone at Tried and True and he recommended that I use their Danish Oil formulation because it is the thinnest and would better impregnate the wood. This would be followed by multiple coats of their Original Finish for better protection. It sounded like a good plan. But to my dismay, it had nearly no ambering effect on the test patch I tried. I thought it would do SOMETHING. Even if the Tried and True will darken over time, it would sure help ease the process along if we could see some improvement now, incremental as it might be.
Obviously, I'm not a finisher so I have to proceed with caution. I had a thought that perhaps using a light wash of Trans Tint Honey Amber in distilled water might be something to try, which would then be followed by the regimen of oil. But I don't know if that flies in the face of a 'food safe' surface... and I don't know if I'll end up in a pack of trouble.
Again, thank you for thinking about this and for whatever advice you may give.
I don't know what tried and
I don't know what tried and true is, but it is linseed that will naturally turn the colour but it is not instant and I ralize that it is an instant world, but I wouldn't use stains or dyes for food safe. most finishes are food safe after 72hrs after the solvents flash out. for a finish I would recommend using beeswax and mineral oil mix (and I did say mineral oil), but again it takes maintenance and the end user wants it to be low maintenace usually.
my recommendation would be for these people to use it as a table- counter top and finish it accordingly and if they want a cutting surface to have a nice cutting board to place on it when they require it.for a hygenic place for their children that is what I would recommend.
I do wonder why people take on jobs that they know nothing about. it does leave everyone disappointed in the end
1 it is not a butcher block. 2 it takes time to develop that yellow patina and with the right materials or stain it and put a finish over it. 3 really letting them believe that it will multi task everything and still look beautiful after a year , before they want to replace it because it looks to ratched up
ron
Just a thought - I wonder if using a torch on the raw wood could give you a little depth and / or color ?
Don't burn the house down
SA
First, thank you for the recommendations, Sid.
Your comments have pretty much narrowed the options to simply letting time darken the wood and the linseed oil. Yes, I think people will be somewhat disappointed but given the constraints and requirements, I know they will understand.
You seem to muse about 'people (who) take on jobs they know nothing about'... Well, I will be the first to admit there is always more to learn. But in fairness to me and to this family, this particular 'butcher block' or hunk of wood was chosen by the cabinet maker. It showed up. It was affordable. An equivalent end grain butcher block would have really busted the budget. Interestingly, this product can be found on the company's website at: http://www.butcherblock.com. Yes, I'm sure you're right in saying it isn't really a butcher block, but marketing has a way of re-defining reality. I was out of the loop concerning the purchase of this piece, but I think you can understand how the strict definition of 'butcher block' was lost on people, including myself.
I never claimed to know the nuances of finishing a butcher block. In fact, until the day it arrived I really didn't think this would be a factor. But the family I'm working for has been wonderful and they asked if I could improve things. So here I am.
Incidently, I have already warned them that an oiled finish will be something that will need maintenance. And I was very clear in telling them that this 'hunk of maple' will accumulate blemishes over time, flaws, etc. and that is the nature of an oiled finish used as a table/work surface. They're fine. So please don't worry about anyone's disappointment.
Thank you again, Sid.
My reference to a working surface is in regards to knives being used on it as to cut meat, vegtables etc.
if it is just to be used to put things on and not really as a working(cutting) surface then you can put most any finish on it which will stand up to most moisture and heat issues of the newer finishes
ron
"Hmmm... Even if it's not
"Hmmm... Even if it's not technically a 'butcher block', it's a couple hundred pounds of maple now permanently installed in someone's kitchen. It is approximately 3'X 4'. It will be used as a table and also as a working surface, which rules out a film finish. The owner is fine with it, except the maple is too white."
Once you get it all oiled up the way your client wants, throw a raw steak or roast on it and cut it. it will then be christened as a butcher block.
Don
a 3'x 4' piece of maple
a 3'x 4' piece of maple perhaps 6/4's thick will weigh about 75lbs
ron
Good on you for trying to help these folks and taking the time to use this resource to provide a good solution for all.
I am not a pro but did attend some seminars presented by one. My notes say to not sand the surface to more than 150 grit for hardwoods. It is easy to burnish the surface which can impede the absorption of any finish.
So first, re-sand to 120 grit. Then get a good supply of 220 emery cloth or wet & dry sand paper and some pure tung oil - not a tung oil finish but pure tung oil. I point you to Lee Valley only because I have used the product and trust it. There may be others.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=20049&cat=1,190,42942
Flood the surface evenly with pure tung oil. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Watch for any dry spots and apply more oil to those. After 20-30 minutes start rubbing this off with a cotton rag. If it has gotten tacky, add a bit of oil. Rub hard, really hard, lots of friction. Don't buff it - rub it.
Let it sit for a couple of days 3 if you can. No more oil but you can rub it hard every day or even twice a day. The heat from the friction helps the oil cure and you want that down deep.
Do all of this one more time.
The third time, after flooding with oil, start rubbing in with the 220 wet & dry, let it sit, then rub off hard with a new rag.
After this 3rd set, your top should be smooth, somewhat darker and developing a bit of character. It smells wonderful and rubbing it around with your hands lets you feel the wood.
The old rules were - once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year for the rest of your life.
Also, this finish can be applied as required, anytime, with ease.
Buy small containers of oil as they have a limited shelf life after opening. Be extremely careful disposing of your wiping rag and sandpaper - soak in a can of water over night - out side. Them let dry - outside - they should get hard.
This may not be the perfect solution, but it will work, is fun to do and well within the capabilities of the homeowner to manage on an ongoing basis.
You can always try the various oil products on scrap material to see what the result might look like.
Don
tung oil will not turn the wood to the colour that they are after. tung oi;l does not darken the wood.
do not sand past 150. then why use 220 paper to apply it. sandpaper will not drive the finish in.
""Buy small containers of oil as they have a limited shelf life after opening. Be extremely careful disposing of your wiping rag and sandpaper - soak in a can of water over night - out side. Them let dry - outside - they should get hard.""
pure tung oil does not do this only the modified tung does dry like that.
"" The old rules were - once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year for the rest of your life""
this is the old rule for linseed oil by the way
ron
1. I can only speak to the tung oil and "tung oil finishes" that I have used. None of them are clear and all seem to darken the wood somewhat. I have not worked much with maple thus the note encouraging the OP to make some test pieces.
2. Sanding to 150 max before applying any finish allows good penetration of the first 2 applications of oil. Using 220 in later coats just helps give a smoother surface without burnishing the wood.
3. Rag disposal. Better safe than sorry. I treat all oily rags the same.
4. The rule I read was for penetrating oils in general, tung, linseed, mineral. Suffice it to say that material finished with these products benefit from a regular maintenance program.
Don
a couple of seminars and we become experts
ron
I believe the intent of these discussions is to share experiences, not to look down ones nose at what others have done because it doesn't fit with whatever you believe or have experienced.
You took a shot at the OP for asking for advice now you are taking one at me for sharing my experiences.
I never claimed to be an expert, but I have rubbed a few gallons of oil finish into a lot of very nice wood in my life. Just experience nothing more.
Don
I didn't look down my nose,
I didn't look down my nose, you were the one that said you attended a few seminars. Some of us have spent a lifetime at it. why not fill in your profile and it may tell us something other than retired.. I could pee on the wood and it will make it darker but may not give him the effect that he is after
ron
It sounds like this is "counter top" that is "butcher block". if it is all over the kitchen, they surely will not be using it as a cutting board everywhere--or should not be. If so, they are in for some pretty ugly looking countertops--I have a cutting board counter top in one place, and it needs attentiion OFTEN.
So clarify with your client what it is--counter top or cutting board.
"Work surface", as someone else has said, can be finished with a good film finish like varnish and be perfectly safe foodwise.
Tung oil will not give enough protection without a topcoat of a film finish.
Can't really help you on the color, but if you do stain it, then you can varnish it.
I can't see that the
I can't see that the following question has been asked and answered yet.
Is this board going to be used to prepare food? Will it be cut on and/or chopped on?
If not, how and where will it be used?
I believe the answer is "yes"
SA
Yersmay1
You probably had no idea what you were getting into with your question.
Good luck with your project.
Jim
Actually, I'm very
Actually, I'm very appreciative of everyone's input. People may disagree about things but I think that helps rather than hinders the process of trying to find answers. It's a chance to see how different people take different approaches. FYI, after sanding back to 150 grit (thanks to the advice here) I put on the first coat of oil today, Tried and True Danish Oil, their thinnest formulation. It's the first of many coats, so far so good. Thanks again!
I remember about try and true and it is linseed base so it will darken to what the desired colour they want. if exposed to light it will darken faster
ron
Have you looked at the current issue of Fine Homebuilding? It has an article on building wood counter tops, including suggestion on finishing for the various type of usage.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled