Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | May 14, 2004 07:34pm | #1

   Beisemeyer makes their splitter for the Unisaw:
   http://www.biesemeyer.com/safety/splitter.htm

   You can certainly make your own featherboards, but I prefer the Grip-Tite magnetic featherboard system.  There was one for sale in the Classifieds yesterday.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   jimtobin | May 14, 2004 10:22pm | #2

   Thanks,

   I was looking at the Grip-tite in Woodworkers supply.  It seems that if you have two then a splitter is optional?  Or would you recommend having the splitter as well.

   I cannot find the classifieds you mentioned. 

   Jim

1. 
   forestgirl | May 14, 2004 11:32pm | #4

   "if you have two then a splitter is optional?"   Nope!  On through (non-dado) cuts, a splitter is never optional.  The Grip-Tite kit includes a small pin-type splitter that is removeable (it goes into the throat insert).  Or, you can make a larger wedge-shape splitter that goes into the splitter, or make your own riving knife (ask Sarge, I think he might have one).

   Here's the link to that Classified post:  http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=17720.1   If it's already gone, and you can wait until the WWing shows start up this fall, they always have a good price at the shows.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   mike4244 | May 14, 2004 11:31pm | #3

   Jim, I would buy Board Buddies. They take the place of feather boards and keep the stock tight to the fence. You want the type with yellow wheels, these are for tablesaws. Other than a power stock feeder the Board buddies are the next best thing.

   mike

1. 
   jimtobin | May 15, 2004 02:58am | #5

   Mike,

   From the web site it looks like I need two?  I am a little confused about the 12/24 inch tracks?

   What do you recommend? Will this eliminate the need for a splitter?

   Thanks, Jim

1. 
   forestgirl | May 15, 2004 08:27am | #6

   Jim, I just have to ask:  Why are you trying to "eliminate the need for a splitter?"forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   jimtobin | May 15, 2004 05:11pm | #8

   HI,

   I am not 'trying' to eliminate using a splitter.  It is just when I look at the pictures of the Grip-Tite and others like the Buddy board there is no splitter.  It seems that with both the need for a splitter disappears.

   I am fairly new at this and really just don't know!

   Thanks, Jim

1. 
   BG | May 15, 2004 06:42pm | #9

   Jim,

   I just happened to glance at the Rockler flyer and noticed they are selling a spliter that sticks into the zero clearance whatchamacalit on the TS.  It appears to be plastic and can be pulled out easily when doing dado's and the like....also quite inexpensive

2. 
   forestgirl | May 15, 2004 11:52pm | #11

   OK, gotcha.  My personal take is, a splitter is very important to one's personal safety, no matter what type of hold-down/featherboard is used.  I've had kiln-dried  wood bind on the saw blade during a rip due to case-hardening or whatever.  I've also read, on this board and others, stories from very, very experienced ww-ers who describe gross bodily harm from kickback.  I strongly believe in "redundancy" when it comes to protecting my various body parts from high-speed missles flying off that blade.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   nikkiwood | May 15, 2004 09:15am | #7

   I went to some effort to make a splitter, but the truth is I never use it.

   I know I will probably get pounded for saying so, but I have never had a problem with kick-back.

   But I do always use a push stick and hang on tight. And whenever possible, I use a feather board -- either the Grip-tite mentioned above, or several I have made myself that can be secured tightly in the mitre slot.

   As far as the fence is concerned, I have a Biesmeyer style fence (on a Powermatic 66). But with my last saw, I used the Excaliber fence which I much preferred. It is a truly sweet piece of equipment.

3. 
   mike4244 | May 15, 2004 09:30pm | #10

   Jim, Board buddies slide and lock into a track that is screwed to the top of the fence. The 12-24 is the option of 12" or 24" track. I bought the 12" track as I like to keep the rollers fairly close to the front and back of blade. The 24" track gives you twice as much length to move the rollers. I didn't need the extra capacity so I  went with the 12" track. Two rollers are in the package with the sliding brackets, track is extra, because of the option of length. A splitter  should come with the guard, its part of it. If you do not use the guard then you may use a splitter. I do not use one myself. The splitter has to line up perfectly with the blade. The splitter keeps boards being ripped from closing and pinching after exiting blade. If you encounter boards like these, rip on a bandsaw and do not use for work that really matters. This wood is called reaction wood, came from a tree that probably leaned on a hill or crowed out by larger trees. I've seen boards from these trees look like pallet lumber seconds after they were cut.Some people make their own splitters out of a dense and hard species like beech or maple. Consists of a wedge 1/8" at the thick point to a featheredge. The wedge is let in to a shop made blade insert and glued. The wedge is usually about 2" high.

   If you buy them there are directions that were almost unreadable, due to a poor print job. Set the track so the center of the blade and track are the same, raise blade all the way up and slide roller brackets in so they clear blade fore and aft.

   mike

1. 
   TXJon | May 16, 2004 06:48pm | #12

   How do you know that you have reaction wood before it pinches behind the blade and busts you in the face?

   Sure, the bandsaw is the safer way to go, but it seems that by the time you find out you needed to use it, it's going to be little late, unless you used a splitter.

   I've had stock bind up on the splitter so tightly that I just about had to use a hammer to get it off.  Mind you, my splitter is a real POS, but I was glad to have it!

   To tell the truth, it was the horror stories seen here that persuaded me to use it.  I still don't use the POS guard though.

1. 
   mike4244 | May 16, 2004 08:48pm | #13

   I don't know beforehand if I am ripping reaction wood, if there's a way I'd like to know. What I do the few times I've encountered it was to stop the saw, pull it out of the blade and either rip it on  bandsaw or take it back to my supplier. The people  I deal with will take back and replace wood that is unusable.

   I did not suggest that not using a splitter was a good idea, I just don't bother with it.

   mike

3. 
   Robbie | May 18, 2004 12:47am | #14

   Jim:  I just bought the same saw.  I equipped it with the Biesemeyer removable splitter.

   Previously, I had the Delta Contractor saw.  Also had that equipped with a Bies splitter. 

   Whether you make your own or buy one (Biesemeyer, Merlin, etc.), please don't operate without it.  Think of it as an injury / dismemberment insurance policy that has just one premium to pay ($100?) and the coverage lasts for years, if not a lifetime.  In that way, I don't think any reasonable individual should decide against one.

   Bob

4. 
   CarpenterJC | May 19, 2004 06:20am | #15

   "Is there anything else I should have?""

   yes..."The Tablesaw Book"..Taunton Press I believe..."almost" all the info you will need..including details for shop built featherboards and jigs..

   Have fun with your new Uni-saw...

                                                                     JC

5. 
   BOBABEUI | May 19, 2004 03:46pm | #16

   Jim,

   If it were my saw, I would make sure that some kind (I have a Beisemeyer on my Unisaw) splitter was installed. As other posters have stated, I have had stock so tightly wrapped around the splitter, that I had had to use a pry bar to open the kerf so I could remove the stock. Kind of makes the hair standup on you neck when you think what the results would have been without the splitter installed..