Replies

1. 
   Floss | Dec 11, 2009 08:11pm | #1

   Wood is fine for a threshold. You will need a door sweep to keep out the air.

   The adjustable strips on modern thresholds are nice if the door sags over time or goes out of square relative to the opening.

   You should pay particular attention to making sure that the threshold is even with the bottom of the door, not necessairly level.

   Therefor install the door and then put the threshold in to match.

   F.

   http://www.technologylk.com/__1212/crl-door-sweeps-and-weatherstrip.html

1. 
   popawheelie | Dec 11, 2009 08:30pm | #2

   Thanks! I'll be looking for a nice sweep I guess.

   I don't want some big ugly piece of metal stuck on the inside of the door.

   I can make the threshold sit above the height of the oak floor so the sweep doesn't hit the floor but contacts the threshold.

   I have heard of a sweep that retracts when you open the door.

   I'd like to have the heights between the inside, threshold, and outside as close as possible.

   There no snese in making a big step anywhere near a door if you can help it."There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers

1. 
   forrestb | Dec 13, 2009 03:53am | #12

   I suggest that you look hard at the gap at the bottom to be sure it is large enough to allow the bottom rail to expand but not cause the door to stick when closing. My fur front door did just that after many years installed. Must be global warming.

1. 
   popawheelie | Dec 13, 2009 05:53am | #13

   I'm going to put some sort of seal on the bottom.

   These epople are supposed to make good products.

   http://www.conservationtechnology.com/building.html

   I've used this weatherstrip on nice doors.

   http://www.conservationtechnology.com/building_weatherseals_jamb.html

   Scroll down to WS32, WS33, WS34, WS35, OR WS36 IN RABBETED JAMB

   It is silicon and is very soft.

   I'm thinking of using this for the bottom.

   http://www.conservationtechnology.com/building_weatherseals_automatic.html"There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers

2. 
   doorboy | Dec 11, 2009 09:06pm | #3

   What you described in your OP is a combination sill/threshold--or 'Combo" sill. If you make a hardwood threshold, you will need to mount it on top of some kind of sill. The big box stores probably still carry a red oak threshold. A wood sill, however, may be harder to find. You should be able to make one out of a 2x8 board and fashion a slant to it so any water will drain away from underneath the door.(Not a problem in your case--but it may be a toe-buster if you don't slant it.)
   What's the existing material? If it's a wood sill with a threshold on top, then you could use them as a pattern for new replacements.
1. 
   JohnCujie | Dec 11, 2009 09:17pm | #4

   The wooden sill should be flush with the finish floor. The threshold, whether wood or bronze, sits on top and covers the gap between the two. It allows the door sweep to clear the floor or any rug depending on the thickness threshold that you install.At least that's how it was before the days of combo sills. And the OP is right, they cheapen the look of the finished product.JohnGee, I would have thought that this was a Breaktime question. Wonder why it's over here.

2. 
   popawheelie | Dec 11, 2009 10:18pm | #5

   I got my terminalogy mixed up as usual.

   I would like an oak sill.

   Is it posible to have no threshold?

   Or have the threshold look like it is part of the sill.

   Make the sill flush with the height of the oak floor and then have a threshold that is about 1/2" high and about 2" wide sitting on top.

   The top of the threashold would be just above the height of the oak floor plus a thin throw rug. We have a throw rug just insdie the door now.

   When I pull out the existing sill I'll see what is going on.

   Outside the door is a slab that I want to cover with flagstone.

   So it will be higher in elevation. Most big pieces of flagstone are 2" thick.

   So my sill will be lower than the flagstone. Yikes!

   Not good practice!

   JohnCujie <!----><!----> I don't like the new format over at FHB. This is kind of a finish carp qustion? Woodworking? ;^)

   I started a folder in my favorites. So far it has 6 building forums in it. I'm not sure where this will go or where I will spend most of my time on a forum.

   I don't like complaining. I've done far to much of it in the past and it got me nowhere.

   I've found that in this world you either lead or follow. There is very little cooporative working together. If there is, hang on to it. It's like gold.

    

   "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers

   Edited 12/11/2009 2:21 pm by popawheelie

   Edited 12/11/2009 2:30 pm by popawheelie

1. 
   JohnCujie | Dec 11, 2009 10:41pm | #6

   If your entry landing is flagstone, you could have a sill fashioned from the same material. I think that is a great look. Then put in your threshold to suit.John

1. 
   popawheelie | Dec 11, 2009 10:51pm | #7

   I did think of that briefly. I'll look/think at it some more. Why not?

   It would look pretty cool. "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers

2. 
   Floss | Dec 12, 2009 03:36am | #8

   This is a retractable sweep/seal.You will still need a threshold.Sills are a thing of the past. At least in most contemporary construction. I was a finish carpenter for 12 years and never saw one in new construction unless it was a spec in the plans or else a custom door from a local shop. I have replaced my share of rotted sills on older homes.F.http://www.technologylk.com/crl-aluminum-finish-commercial-medium-duty-automatic-door-bottom-for-36-door-lk-DB035CV36.htmlEdit: another choice http://www.harborcitysupply.com/Door_Hardware/National_Guard_Products/automatic_door_bottoms/ngp_automatic_door_bottoms.htm

   Edited 12/11/2009 7:42 pm ET by Floss

1. 
   popawheelie | Dec 12, 2009 04:51am | #9

   Thanks you very much! I would go for the morticed ones only.

   That is if I go for this.

   I don't like a lot of hardware on a door.

   It's easy to go for all the bells and whistles when you are deciding.

   But you end up with a door way that is kind of ugly. In my opinion.

   "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers

   Edited 12/11/2009 8:53 pm by popawheelie

1. 
   acornw | Dec 12, 2009 09:23pm | #11

   We make Exterior doors with solid white Oak sills/thresholds all the time. Traditional in this area is a 1-3/4" thick sill, canted at 10 degrees, with a flat just under the door. This flat can provide a flat for a rubber door bottom, an auto door bottom, or (preferred) a bronze threshold like Pemko 101 with a j-hook on the door bottom. The sill should be wide enough to project beyond the plane of the exterior wall and allow the the exterior trim to terminate on top of the sill ears. The top of the sill should be about 3/4" to 7/8" above the finish floor to allow for a walk off rug. If you observe people walking, we almost never step on a sill, but step over it - without thinking. Children and elderly (shuffle) are the exception. Children heal and learn, so if you anticipate problems, then make the sill a bit higher - 3/8" - than finish floor and make the flooring in stone or tile so water and mud will not become a problem like it would on hardwood.
   Dave S
   http://www.acornwoodworks.com

   Edited 12/14/2009 10:50 am ET by acornw

2. 
   Taigert | Dec 12, 2009 04:16pm | #10

   Floss

    thats so cool stuff, I would really like to see one in action. I guess I should make sure I make it to the builders show this year. I havent made it to one for about 10  years now. I'll have to make a point of blocking out the time to go, instead of getting tied up and missing it. In a way you could look at it as continuing education.

   Taigert

3. 
   Jfrostjr | Dec 13, 2009 07:24pm | #14

   I assume you are talking about the door into your shop. If tht's the case I recently found the perfect (for me) solution.

   With my aluminum threshold there was always a crack of light - or more. In Michigan that is not good. I found an item called the Tsunami Guard. It fits like a glove, no cracks, no leaks and is easy to install for a tight fit.

   http://www.garageaccessoriesrus.com/doorseal.html

   Jerry

   Frosty

   “If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert,
   in 5 years there’d be a shortage of sand.”

   Milton Friedman

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/13/2009 11:43 am ET by Jfrostjr

1. 
   popawheelie | Dec 13, 2009 07:42pm | #15

   this is a front door to our house. One of the reasons I'm asking about different posibilities is that I want it to be just right.

   I like going the extra mile on things like front doors.

   Another issue ispeople with disabilities have a hard time going over transitions in doorways.

   I'm looking into having no theshold at all. "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers

4. 
   mlbfreestyle | Dec 13, 2009 10:38pm | #16

   Lots of replies here so I'll keep it brief. I rebuilt an aluminum threshold a few years back. Kept the aluminum extrusion and replaced the fake oak strip with a larger and more elaborate piece of Ipe. Just oil it every couple of years and it looks great. You could also use Santos Mahogany. Both are naturally durable in contact with water.