Replies

1. 
   TomMGTC | Jun 26, 2002 10:56pm | #1

   None of the atlanta area home depots carry fir as far as I know. You can find fir at some of the building supply houses like ply mart or millwork distributors. In my opinion nothing eats hard maple or beach for a bench top and the small additional cost is well worth it. I just completed a bench using the Frank Klausz design in The Workbench Book with a couple of small changes. I used a different style of tail vise and my bench is longer and has an enclosed base with 24 drawers (still in progress) but I really like the overall bench design.  

1. 
   dhpascoe | Jun 27, 2002 04:54pm | #3

   Yes, the Junk Depot does carry fir, but you surely don't want to pay their outrageous prices.

   The idea of spending a lot of money for one of those small benches didn't appeal to me. I wanted a very large one, like 3 x 10'. I too built mine of SYP, (6) 4x4 legs & top stringers, 2x4 frames and 2 x 12 planks after drying the wood in the attic, getting it stabilized and then squaring up. For the top, I chose three planks cut from the center of the tree so they have equal parts heartwood and later growth. This yeilds the closest to quarter-sawn one can get with junk lumber. It is unbelievably heavy and stable. I could drive a car on that thing, it's so strong.  Doesn't even flinch when planing.

   Though the top is too soft and will surely get beat up fast, I plan on overlaying with maple or ash when the time comes.  That will be easy and cheap to do (30 bd. ft. @ $5.00) It's now about a year old but still doesn't look too bad. I'd make this one again if I had to. I didn't think it was a good idea when I started but turned out better than expected.

2. 
   swiftntrue1 | Jun 27, 2002 05:09am | #2

   What's wrong with good old southern yellow pine it's as tough as old boots and quite good looking? 

1. 
   marktrav | Jun 27, 2002 05:23pm | #4

   Perhaps for the legs....I would think it would be too soft for the top, and would need to be re-flattened frequently after any hammering or chiseling...Plus, for a traditional bench, the tail vise wouldn't be as strong with soft wood, correct?

   Mark

1. 
   dhpascoe | Jun 27, 2002 05:57pm | #5

   I made two leg vices of hickory. Hammering has no effect on the top, not with those huge rails and frames. Everything is precisely notched or mortised. They key to the top was getting the frame level and squaring it by hand, plus the way the top is fastened with screws. Here, I sized my screw holes carefully. The holes in the planks allow for no purchase of the screws. That way, I could adjust the pressure that the screws exert on the planks to achieve flatness. Plus, if there's any future warping or cupping, I can still make adjustments.

   Granted, it's far from the perfectly flat top that would take a whole lot more time and money to achieve. I really don't need that since I have no desire to flatten large planks by hand. The softness of the top has proved to be less of a problem than I expected simply by treating it with a little more care. Good enough for a hobbyist anyway.

   Dusty Dave

2. 
   BG | Oct 08, 2003 01:16am | #7

   Marktrav,

   I love workbenches. I'd have the finest half dozen or so I could afford if I had my druthers....and if I had the space.  If you fully cost out the project you'll find better wood is not much of a differential...especially if you make the edges thicker than the center.  Also, while bigger is pretty, it aint necessarily useful.  I find it better to have other tables for set up and stickering wood and leave the workbench to be the tool it is....good luck with your decision. 

1. 
   marktrav | Oct 08, 2003 02:39am | #8

   Actually, I did build a great workbench. Click on the link below for a description of the bench I built. I also posted pics a few posts after this message.....

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=7199.11

   I'll have to dig around to see if I have better pics. Unfortunately, I'm not living at the house (or have ready access to the shop) as the house is undergoing a very extensive renovation and they are just getting through with the foundation/concrete work. Once they finish the dirt/concrete stuff, I should be able to get back in the shop from time to time.

   Mark

3. 
   Bersch1 | Oct 07, 2003 11:46pm | #6

   I built one and love it.  I used materials I had on hand including old 1 3/4" Old Growth D.F. door rails.  I had a couple old doors and cut them up for the top framing and I had a piece of old butcher block maple I used for the back top.  I'm sure you can find old doors at a salvage yard for around $20.00.  I turned the stretchers into a tray to stash various items for the bench.  The only drawback is the "end vise" which is above the table surface.  you have to put 3/4" spacers on top of the table if you want to put anything longer than the top on the bench.  Not a big deal, but it can frustrate one.  turns out to be a very versitile bench for very little money.

4. 
   StorzInVail | Oct 08, 2003 07:34am | #9

   Haven't built that, but as an inexpensive option, (also cheaper than doors), try checking out a local auction house for restaurant equipment, heck keep an eye on the classifieds for a bakery going out of business. Bakers, or for that matter alot of restaurants use wooden prep tables, the standard size I've dealt with is 2' deep X 6' long X 3-4" thick, standard matierial is laminated maple. The going price, at auction, is usually $20.00 - 45.00, including a very heavy. but ugly,  base of adjustable steel legs. I mentioned bakeries first as the dough blades they use don't usually damage the top too bad, and bakers don't use a lot of oils. The downside of some shops is the product processed on your bench, nothing that can't be planed off with a jointer of jack plane, but still a little time consuming. Of course, there is always the bottom of the bench- usually dead falt and unfinished. Throw a row of dog holes down the sides, add a couple of vises, have a nice day-js

5. 
   RANGERP75R | Oct 08, 2003 08:41am | #10

   Mark

      HD does carry Doug Fir, but in s4s 3/4". You could laminate those pieces. The problem is the high cost of HD lumber. If you want Doug Fir or any hardwood s2s or s3s contact Suwanee Lumber Co. in good ole Suwanee, Ga. It's about 2 miles off where Lawrenceville-Suwanee Rd. crosses I-85. Past Sawmill Rd. till you hit Buford Hwy. Take a left and another 1/2 mile on the left. Best hard-wood prices around since 1965.

      I just finished a work-bench. My fifth personal but I have collaborated on about another 15 over the years. The base is a design I came up with 20 years ago. A modified Hammacher-Schlemmer cabinet-maker-piano maker bench from the late 1800's, early 1900's. The base is made of Doug Fir beam that I recovered from an old warehouse downtown about to be dozed and burned for progress. Ripped and re-glued. The top is an experiment with shorts and throw away scraps destined for the land-fill. I finger-jointed them together to form a core. Went solid on top and bottom layer of sandwich. Capped the outside where the action and dog holes are with solid maple I bought in s2s.

      I will be posting some pictures by the week-end if you want to have a look. This boy isn't pretty and shiny, but it is better built than the $1800 delivered work-bench I was eyeing on page 14 of the current Garret-Wade catalog. I have seen many W/B's that have great tops and weak bases. I have seen some with great bases and not-so-good tops. IMO, both are equally important, especially if you do heavy hand planing and cut mortices in thick hard-wood by hand. 

      There's nothing wrong with that southern yellow pine if you let it dry properly b-4 you assemble. That's the key if it is used. More important to me is the design and joints that are used. Poor planning and weak joints relay to poor benefits and weak bench.

      Here are some pics of the base after the final jointery. Haven't added the Watco yet. The photography is poor, but the best I could do during the evening hours. If you want to see the bench assembled, look for a thread "Work-Bench's--Beauty or Beast". Hope to have it posted by the weekend. BTW, I'm in Gwinnett. If you are close and want to see it in person, e-mail and you can drop by if you chose. If you are interested in another design, there are many that will work for you. Whatever you chose, do it rock-solid and do it with pride.

   Good Luck with the decision...

   sarge..jt

   
1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Oct 08, 2003 12:27pm | #11

   Sarge,

   Probably a dumb question as everybody's height is different, but what height do you make the bench from the floor?  With about 20 built you may have some feedback on this one.

   All I know is that I'm 6'1" and the bench I'm currently using (31" off floor) gives me back pain when working a/c having to bend.

   I'm knocking together a base at the moment and was going to make the top of the bench approx 34" off the floor, if I need more height then I was going to add feet to the base of the bench.  Would appreciate your thoughts on this one.

   Cheers,

   eddie

   Edited 10/8/2003 6:18:17 AM ET by eddie (aust)

   Edited 10/8/2003 7:20:28 AM ET by eddie (aust)

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Oct 08, 2003 06:51pm | #12

   eddie

      This one is 34 1/2". I prefer a 34" for my height ( 5' 11''). If you look at the photo, you will notice that I have 5/8" matting surrounding the bench. I have some pulled back in that photo to prepare for Watco. That gives me 34 1/8" as I'm standing on 5/8". The mat will compress 1/8" to give me my perfect 34".

      I think it is a matter of preference for everyone. I think it has more to do with what you are comfortable with and the type of work. I used to like 33 1/2", but as I age that comfort level has gone up 1/2". And 1/2" will be noticeable. ha..ha..

      I do prefer my assembly table slightly lower. It sits at 33 1/2" behind the work-bench. Lay a piece of 1/2" MDF and I can get 11' of support by over-lapping that table with the bench. Open the twin-screw vise 12" and I can get 12'. I try to look at all aspects for my situation when making decisions that constitute the "big picture". Space management.

      I will say this. If you are getting back pain, put blocks under-neath temporarily until you find the "magic formula". To keep the base from sliding or shifting while you go temporary, cut pieces of that mat used for router hold-down and put them between the temp block and table. I use them under-neath my work-bench feet permanently. It weights about 280 lbs. and is designed not to move in any direction even with extreme pressure. By putting the mat under-neath, 6 teen-age boys could not slide it. When that was done, the base was ready for a solid top.

   Shout if you have more questions... Off to part-time work.

   sarge..jt 

6. 
   RANGERP75R | Oct 08, 2003 06:54pm | #13

   BG

      Ya da man... I like it. Makes you feel more alert and scares the spiders off at the same time. ha..ha..

      Now, I will come for dinner. What time should I be there? he..he..

   sarge..jt