Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 20, 2009 06:44am | #1

   The last time I checked, there still wasn't an actual plan for the NFWB.  There are, however, several people who've built it, discussions, and at least one relevant video.  Here are two links, just in case you haven't already seen them:

   Knots thread about the Newfangled Workbench

   Glue-tube episode (go to Archives, then to January 21st, 2008)

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
2. 
   RDNZL | Feb 20, 2009 07:19am | #2

   I am in the final stages of assembly of my 8 footer. I found this to be helpful in my planning: http://www.flickr.com/photos/8212797@NO7/sets/72157600970262752/ I hope (for you) that it is still there.

   Some other notes: good, tight grain, knot free doug fir is not as easy to get as is made out to be. I went through 40 - 50 pc. 2x12x10 (KD), at the only purveyor of DF in the state (that I'm aware of), took home the 6 best (still more knotty than I expected), stickered for ~ 1 mo, and lo and behold, half of the boards twisted on me. I managed to mill it out to 1 5/16, with a bit of fudging, or allowance of twist here and there. I had (have) 1 1/2 boards - the worst of the twist - left over. Better extra than not enough, though. 11 1/4" nominal was down to just over 11" at the end of a month.

   I cut at 3" and 5" wide, 2" for the beam "tee". I used SketchUp to determine location of 7/8" holes so that everything lines up and has proper clearance. This is crucial. Don't sweat the small pieces, they will become evident after the main framework is assembled, and you will have scrap to mill out to the neccessary dimensions.

   Be sure to drill clearance for the full depth of the shoulder of your lags, as well as pilot holes for the threads - DF will split easily.

   One problem already noted: the 8' planing beam is a bear to move up or down by oneself - any adjustment more than a couple of inches on one side and things bind up, so one is forced to go side to side repeatedly for what seems forever.....maybe I'll figure it out better as I get further along.

   Good luck!

1. 
   AlanWS | Feb 20, 2009 09:20am | #3

   Can't you just cut the groove in the ends of the planing beam a bit deeper, and that should allow you to adjust it up and down as far as you want on one go.

1. 
   RDNZL | Feb 20, 2009 02:11pm | #4

   That was my initial thought as well, but as I inspected it, it didn't appear as though the bind was due to wood contact. I could well be wrong - it was at the very end of the day, the assembly just completed, and I didn't have time to check it out thoroughly. I'll be back at it today (presumably) so perhaps the solution will become apparent.

   Can I assume you know from experience? A look at the photos in the article doesn't seem to show same.

2. 
   forestgirl | Feb 20, 2009 06:30pm | #5

   "...any adjustment more than a couple of inches on one side and things bind up...."  I haven't built the bench, but I was just watching the video <click> and at about 5:35 into it, John lifts first one side of the planing beam almost the full distance from bottom to top.  You might want to take a look and see what's different from your set-up.  Let us know, so's we can avoid problems!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   RDNZL | Feb 21, 2009 12:24am | #8

   OK folks, problem solved.

   The problem was not the bench design, but me (as is usually the case....)

   I had screwed the clamp fixture to the bottom of the beam. In order for the beam to move up and down freely on one side or the other independently, the beam must be able to tilt on the fixture.

   DUH!

1. 
   jonnieboy | Sep 24, 2009 07:27am | #9

   RDNZL,

   I know this thread was a while ago, but I'm wondering how you like that new-fangled bench, assuming you've been using it a while now.

   --Jonnieboy

1. 
   RDNZL | Sep 25, 2009 06:19am | #10

   I like it - OK. Just OKThe planing beam is great. Use it a lot.The end vice system is OK as long as you are working material thicker than 3/4. I even made the wood faces 11/16, which was the least I could get away with without exposing the tops of the clamp heads, but 3/4 material still sits essentially flush with them when under clamp pressure. This seems to be a function of the inherent out of square characteristics of pony clamps. One can compensate by shimming underneath the workpiece, but this is a PIA in many ways.I almost never use the front clamps/vice. This is perhaps a result of my limited skills (or limited imagination) or the relative simplicity of the projects I've been doing.I have mounted two accessories on MDF inserts that drop into the center well - both taken from FW articles: a router morticing jig and a mini bench to bring dovetail work up to a more comfortable working height. This function of the newfangled bench works very well. If only the vice function of my mini bench worked as well.....I adapted the newfangled use of pipe clamps for its vice, and the out of square issue is again a problem, as is needing to adjust two screws independently to secure a workpiece. Oh well....getting off topic here.I have also found that the bench will twist when planing from the back towards the front. The rear leg(s) will lift off the floor. This may be a function of poor interpretation of the "plan" on my part: I think I should have made the stretcher and legs wider.I also find myself catching things like pants pockets on the protruding ends of the clamps - haven't ripped a pair yet, but very annoying nevertheless.In the end, however, one does end up with a functional woodworking bench at a fraction of the cost of a traditional bench and vice(s). The other route you may wish to consider in this regard is the plywood bench featured in the magazine - don't have the issue # at hand. You'd still have to spring for vises, though.Good luck!

2. 
   jonnieboy | Sep 25, 2009 07:51am | #11

   RD,

   I'm putting the trim on my new bench, but it's old-fashioned, not new-fangled. That new-fangled design sure looked inviting when I was going over possiblities.

   I can see what you mean about the clamping. I wonder if maybe the square tube clamps would help that. I'm just thinking they might be stiffer. Then again, perhaps the issue is a relatively imprecise nature of any clamp design, versus a vise. Just thinking out loud. I'm sure you've wrestled with ideas already.  

   Mostly I was curious. I'd never heard from anyone who's built one how that design works out.

   Thanks for replying!

   -jonnieboy

    

3. 
   Shoemaker1 | Sep 27, 2009 08:45pm | #12

   I was looking on past threads and can't find a sketchup file. Is there one out there?

4. 
   daverichards | Sep 28, 2009 12:42am | #13

   You can get the SketchUp model and the plans here: http://store.taunton.com/onlinestore/item/new-fangled-workbench-065113.html

   View Image

   Edited 9/27/2009 5:45 pm ET by DaveRichards

3. 
   daverichards | Feb 20, 2009 06:59pm | #6

   When I drew the bench from the article, I came up with the large timbers at 8" wide. The timbers for the bench top were drawn at 3" wide. I used that for all of the pieces except the turning blocks that support the drop in MDF pieces.

   When I read John's article, I took away from it that the actuall dimensions were being left up to the builder to suit their needs. I don't think the dimensions are really too critical.

   View Image

1. 
   golfcondr | Feb 20, 2009 07:14pm | #7

   Appreciate all the comments and help while drafting my plans, I figured 2x8 for  legs and strecher,2x31/4 for top,2x5 for planing board hope this isn't over kill .

   Golfcondr.