Dear John:
I am a beginner–unless there is an even less experienced category like novice! Your plans are designated for beginners, so here are some beginner/novice questions:
1. How does the front top plank attach to the top rail? (the solitary top plank, in front, to which the planing wedge is attached and which is supported by the 1/2 inch steel pipe at each end.
2. For caster wheels, do you know the approximate bench weight using hem fir? Any recommendations on wheels?
3. In what sequence (ie steps) do you recommend constructing the bench?
Thank you,
Jack berkley
Replies
While you are waiting for JW to answer I can tell you that everything on the bench is screwed together. Nothing is glued. The front top plank with the planing wedge attached isn't supported by the pipe, it's more like it supports the pipe, 3/4 inch black pipe. FWW sells plans on line and you get a SketchUp too which you can rotate in 3D and pull apart and measure and all kinds of things. I myself wouldn't use wheels. Can't imagine that it would stay steady with wheels while doing heavy planing. There are two separate projects to build, the top and the base. I can’t remember which I built first, but it doesn't seem to matter to me. Then again I had other benches to build this one on. The whole thing tends to get quite heavy by the time you are through. I use the NF bench every day and just love it. Didn't mean to hijack Johns forum. You will learn a lot more from him. Good luck.
PS While looking for pictures I see that I did make the base first.
New Fangled Workbench
Jack,
I made mine several years ago from John's original design. The top front piece (planing wedge and pipes to be added) and it's vertical mate on the inside front of the channel form an L shape. John's design used horizontal screws through the inside channel into the top front piece. I chose to use pocket hole screws spaced 6" apart from the front piece into its mate to form a sturdy L shape. I too was just learning then and I'm continuing that learning curve. It is sturdy.
That piece attaches to the back channel piece with countersunk horizontal screws in each end (from underneath) and a pocket hole screw from the top at each end. These 2 connect the front and back and through which the long pipes feed for the end clamp assembly.
Confusing, but study the drawings 'till you get a mental picture and then it'll all take shape.
I might add that the orig plan, the new plans, and the sketchup plans have an inconsistency or two, the main one being that there was a confusion between the size of the black pipe (some of the pipe in the orig was 1/2 inch, some 3/4) and whether it was 3/4 inside or outside diameter. I had a bit of trouble cramming two layers of 3/4 inch black pipe and a 3/4 inch removable panel into the allotted height of the well, as the holes for the cross pipes (front vise) got a bit too close to the bottom edge of the well. You can figure it out and make changes as you go along, that's what makes it fun.
I like a small vise at eye level for working on small parts so I added a hidden vise to my NF bench that slides up when needed and is held in the end vise. Or it can be clamped at any height in the front vise if you slide it out of its sleeve and put it on the planing beam. I covered the making of this vise in another post but here are some pix.
Nice Vise Set Up
Like the design of your vise mount, because it allows you to adjust the height.
No Glue
Jack,
As someone was kind enough to explain in my absence, (I have been out of reach of the internet for a few days), the front edge plank, like almost all of the bench components, is attached by dry wall screws.
The plans issued by FWW which were released long after the bench was originally featured in the magazine and without asking me to check them for accuracy. All of the pipe used in the bench is 1/2 black iron pipe, not the 3/4 inch pipe called out in the plans. 3/4 inch pipe and clamps, as noted, is too large and will create problems.
The bench weighs somewhere around 200 pounds. As another poster commented wheels under the bench aren't a good idea, even if the wheels were locking casters the bench will be wobbly.
I would cut the wood for all of the components to rough size first to, allow you to set aside the best pieces for the bench top, and then actually build the base first since that would give you a place to work on the top as you assemble it.
3/4 inch pipe and clamps... will creat problems.
I'm kinda glad I went with the beefier 3/4 inch. The problems were solvable and it all worked out in the end.
New Fangled Work bench
Thank you John and other posters for answering my beginner questions. Regarding the wheels though i should have explained that the wheels i am considering are retracting wheels designed to hold over a thoug=sand lbs. Once retracted, the bench would be on solid feet. the wheels would not touch the ground. the wheels are lowered at the wheel base with a tool. These are Zambus Carrymaster Wheels AC-300. on the other hand, the feet would probably be a plastic family material and may slide on my plywood floor. thoughts?
No Slide
The pads on the Zambus casters are a rubber compound so they shouldn't slide.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled