Replies

1. 
   sawdustdad | Apr 17, 2009 05:17pm | #1

   hardboard or mdf might be slippery underfoot with sawdust on them. Given those three choices, the plywood would be better.

1. 
   dshover | Apr 17, 2009 07:24pm | #3

   Good point.  Thanks a lot.

2. 
   ASK | Apr 17, 2009 06:13pm | #2

   I am in the cellar with a concrete floor. On all the surfaces I can walk I put down the 2' X 2' X 1/2" interlocking foam. Makes the floor comfortable to walk on and didn't have to move any of the work tables.

   ASK

1. 
   dshover | Apr 17, 2009 07:25pm | #4

   I thought of the foam, but I move some machines on mobile bases and I'm not sure the foam could take that.  Thanks for the suggestion.

1. 
   ASK | Apr 17, 2009 07:48pm | #5

   You're probably right.

   ASK

3. 
   BG | Apr 18, 2009 01:01pm | #6

   Dshover,

   I used the Dri-core that I purchased at HD for about $1.25 a square foot. It's 3/4 thick which may be too much for you, but It doe work nicely. http://www.dricore.com/en/eIndex.aspx

   I wonder if hardboard rough side up would work for you.

1. 
   dshover | Apr 18, 2009 02:23pm | #7

   BG, thanks for the information.  I will look into Dri-Core.  I appreciate your advice.  David

4. 
   frenchy | Apr 18, 2009 04:38pm | #8

   If it's indoors use plywood and shellac it..

     three reasons for shellac.. 

    first shellac is very durable and easily repaired without sanding should anything happen to it..

    Second I notice it's not terribly slippy like some paints are..

    Third you can shellac that size floor for about $50.00 and be walking on it in two hours..

     Finally bonus points it will look nice underfoot!  a wood shop with a wood floor  how cool is that?

    If you want I'll give you a how to do it..

1. 
   dshover | Apr 18, 2009 08:38pm | #9

   Frenchy, great suggestion.  I would love to know how you did it.  Thanks much.  David

1. 
   frenchy | Apr 18, 2009 11:48pm | #10

   shellac is extremely simple to work with if you want to.

      Go buy a gallon of zinssler's shellac at your local big box store  (turn over there keeps it fresh and the price is usually reasonable)  and pick up 2 gallons of denatured alcohol..

    mix them together   (takes maybe 30 seconds or so) and flood the first coat on.. the trick is too really mop it on quickly   Don't try to be neat.  Don't try to be tidy.   Fast is much more important than tidy.  I use a big 4 inch barn painting brush  but there are also lambs wool applicators avialable that make it so you don't have to bend over on your hands and knees..

    The reason you can get away with this is because every coat melts the previous coat and they blend together.  That's why repairs don't need sanding and can be done so easily..

    If this was a living room or someplace where you really want a great finish wait about 15 minutes untill the first coat dries.. then get a 220  3M sanding sponge and sand off the nibs. This can be done really really fast! for your space  10 minutes is more than enough.. it's not sanding to correct flaws it's a lick and a promise type sanding simply to remove the little nibs that stick up

     In a shop I wouldn't bother..

     Then wipe up the white residue and slop on another coat.. fast is  critical if you don't want ridges and lines..  This next coat will take 1/2 hour to dry before it's ready for the third and final coat..

    If you want to put a fourth coat on it will again double the time before drying  and thick isn't a good thing if you want durable..  

    You can walk on three coats 2 hours after you start but the shellac is still rather delcate.    Waiting 24 hours will allow it to get a great deal more tough..

     Smell;  it'll be gone before the shellac dries, 

    health;  shellac is as SAFE AS THERE IS.. YOU'VE BEEN EATING IT ON PILLS AND CANDY ALL OF YOUR LIFE..

       Clean up;  Let the brush dry and next time you need it soak it in denatured alcohol for a while to soften it back up.. no need to clean..   your clothes that get shellac spalshed on them? wash as normal it will wash right out..  hands and etc.. simply wash like normal, Use soap and water..

     

     

1. 
   dshover | Apr 19, 2009 03:14am | #11

   Frenchy, thanks again.  This sounds fairly straightforward and will produce a really nice finish for the shop.  I do appreciate your help; I will let you know how it turns out.  David

1. 
   frenchy | Apr 19, 2009 07:19pm | #12

   One thing I neglected to state.. 

     do not go back over anything..

    if you miss something get it the next time..

     shellac dries so fast that if you try to touch up a missed spot you get ridges.. Looks messy..

    If you get some of those areas simply flood it with denatured alcohol.  That will melt the shellac and allow it to self level..

      I'm not kidding about flooding it on either..  I'm of the dump and spread school.  dump some out of the bucket and spread it around as quickly as you can without going back over anything.. shellac this thinned out will flow easily..  use that to your advantage..

    

2. 
   davcefai | Apr 20, 2009 10:03pm | #13

   I ask this purely in a spirit of enquiry. I predate all this MSDS stuff :-) . When I was a student Mercury, Methanol etc were just "another chemical".When working with that comparatively large surface area are the alcohol fumes a problem:
   1. As far as operator intoxication goes?
   2. Fire risk?

3. 
   frenchy | Apr 21, 2009 12:21am | #14

   Fire risk.. not as much as most floor finishes  here's why.. what's flamabble about shellac is the alcohol.

     Alcohol is unique in that it's the only fire of a flamable liquid that should be put out with water.   Other flamable liquids water will just cause the flame to spread..    Alcohol instantly absorbs the water molecue and that puts out the fire.

     So any humidity present will dramatically reduce the ability for alcohol to flame..

     Second alcohol has a tiny window  where it will burn.. too rich and it won't ignite  too lean and it won't ignite..  very hard to get that mixture exactly correct.. Not impossible but hard..

    If you look at dragsters that use alcohol based fuel they use massive twin magnetos to put out a welding quality spark to get  the alcohol to ignite..

     Simply opening a window is likely to be adequite.. although I've done it in the winter with all the windows closed. I supose it depends on the air space and other such considerations.

     Second  getting drunk breathing fumes..

     I've done it a lot and don't notice myself ever getting lite headed..  I don't drink much and when I do a glass of apertif is enough to get me a little lite headed..

     so maybe it's not strong enough? 

     It's true I've never taken a breathalizer test after doing a lot of shellacing so I guess it's possible..  

    

5. 
   pzaxtl | Apr 21, 2009 07:13am | #15

   A couple questions:

   Why is adding more weight to the floor system a concern?

   Is this a second floor shop?

   Why not just strip the self-adhesive tiles and paint over the existing plywood flooring with epoxy paint?

1. 
   dshover | Apr 21, 2009 02:15pm | #16

   Weight isn't the problem, its a ground floor shop, a converted garage with the plywood floor built to come up to the level of the rest of that ground floor.  Height is the problem.  The ceiling is not even 8'.  I could just rip up the floor and go back to the concrete garage floor, but that is an enormous job, with a built-in workbench and cabinets that would all have to be moved.  I tried stripping the tiles but the first layer of veneer comes off the plywood in places and makes a messy surface, hence my problem.  Thanks for your response.  

1. 
   jc21 | Apr 22, 2009 12:18am | #17

   A heat gun used very carefully (have a fire extinguisher handy) should allow you to remove the old tile fairly easily.

   "It is hardly too strong to say that there are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good masters, but they mean to be masters." -- Noah Webster

1. 
   dshover | Apr 22, 2009 01:18am | #18

   Thanks, I might experiment with the heat gun and see how far I get.