Replies

1. 
   Knotscott | Aug 29, 2005 03:01am | #1

   The stock blade won't cut peanut butter....there isn't one. ;-) I'd suggest a really nice 40T general purpose blade like a Forrest WWII, Freud F410, Tenryu Gold Medal, Ridge Carbide, etc., and a decent 24T ripping blade for real thick hardwoods. Sometimes Ebay has some great deals on a Tenryu, and almost always on a 24T ripping blade. ~ $85-$140 for both...depending on the deal and choices.

   You can upgrade the belt with a 3/8" x 4' link belt if the stock v-belt has vibration problems, but you won't know until you run it. Very easy to add later...~ $28.

   I highly recommned the PALS alignment system from In-line Industries. There simple to install, but are a bit easier during assembly when the saw is upside down. $20 delivered.
   http://in-lineindustries.com/products.html

   Clean the cosmoline off the top with mineral spirits or WD-40. Keep it rust free with a few coats of paste wax.

   The initiation ceremony into the GI brotherhood comes by way of the owners manual. :-) Great contractor saw though. Enjoy.

2. 
   WillGeorge | Aug 30, 2005 06:37pm | #2

   I for one would not get ANYTHING untill you get the saw and make some 'cuts' on some scrap wood and see what you 'REALLY' need!

   EDIZT:: General make nice stuff and maybe just a blade of your chioce~

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/30/2005 11:40 am ET by WillGeorge

3. 
   mikegagne | Sep 05, 2005 07:04am | #3

   <sacrificing chickens at midnight...>

   sacrificing lambs works well.......

4. 
   jako17 | Sep 05, 2005 03:04pm | #4

   Sacrificing fingers anytime, works well and one only has a limited supply so you get smart real fast!!!

5. 
   dukeone | Sep 05, 2005 03:18pm | #5

   The ancient Greeks sacrificed lambs and then burnt
   "fat and thigh bones". Could be the thing. Price of best quality blade is so small as compared to new saw, go for it; just pick brand and configuration.

   Enjoy, KDM

   Kenneth Duke Masters
   The Bill of Rights
   December 15 1791
   NRA Endowment Member
   LEAA Life Member
   CRPA Member
6. 
   DennyD | Sep 06, 2005 07:10am | #6

   Hey there - I got my General 50-185 about a year ago and love it. Great tool. Here is what I found good and not;

   • PALS = Good, make it easy to align trunion
   • Vibration Upgrade (from in-line, same people that make PALS) = No good. The issue here is that the link belt does not fit on the pulleys. I tried it and the belt jumped off and the weight of the motor bent the mount it was on when the motor dropped. You can get a pulley to fit the motor but not the arbor, they don't/can't make one that size. If anyone knows where I can get pulleys, please let me know.
   • Merlin splitter from Excalibur - easy on, easy off.
   • Outfeed Table -lot's of plans out there, I built on based on the design in the installation guide (which is OK - but nt great).
   • I use a Forrest WW2 blade and a Freud 6 inch dado set.
   • Replace the miter with either Accu-Guide or Kreg. I have the Kreg miter and love it.
   • Master Plate and Super Bar (http://http://www.mastergauge.com or Wood Craft) for adjusting rip fence and trunion.
   • Make your own zctp's, easy enough to do.
   • And finally - make you own taper jig, plans around, good one in a recent issue of FWW. The ones you buy are horrible.

   That should keep you broke and busy for a while. Enjoy the saw!!! 

7. 
   theo | Sep 06, 2005 09:18am | #7

   I have had this saw for nearly two years, the things I have done are:

   [0] wired the motor for 220.

   [1] put the saw on 4 independent rotating, locking casters
   on a wider, longer base.

   [2] built a router table into the right hand side

   [3] built a cross cut sled

   [4] built a sacrificial fence to ride over the original fence.
   A set of 4 bolts are hand tightened against the right hand
   face of the fence and this presses the sacrificial fence
   against the left hand side of the fence for ripping miters.

   The guard is effective but annoying because it was fussy to align with
   the blade and got bent once while it was removed. I am looking to make a splitter by grinding an old file, then maybe attach a guard to the rip fence... I wish the European riving knives were standard on N.A. saws but this saw was the right price. I need to make a low sacrificial fence that allows the blade guard to operate properly when
   ripping narrow boards.

   The dust collection on any contractors saw is a bit of a joke because the back of the saw is open, also on this particular saw the blade throws a lot of dust through the slot in the front for the wheel that raises and lowers the blade.

   So the next real task is all about dust collection--making a bag that will close up the back of the saw but leave the motor outside and making some kind of lip inside the saw to catch dust before it is thrown through the forward slot.

   The larger, longer base is also storage for the sacrificial fences, push sticks etc.

   So looking back, I didn't need to buy a lot, but I had to make some things.

   Enjoy!