Replies

1. 
   BG | Dec 30, 2004 03:22pm | #1

   Biz,

   I don't have the Griz but I did have a bit of the same issue with mine....I had the tension off and screwed all the way down but the upper wheel had not slid down..it was hung up a bit...the metal against metal was not sliding the way it should. 

   The top wheel can move a fair amount so I would think the difference in blade measurement and machine specs is not the issue....see if a gentle tap on the metal that holds the screw/tension would not help ....then call Griz if it doesn't

    

2. 
   JedClampit | Dec 30, 2004 06:13pm | #2

   I have a G0555 and recently installed a riser block after owing the saw for about a year. While I absolutely love this saw, Grizzly has been a bit weird with its blade size specifications. When I first bought mine, they were specifying 92.5" blades. OK, so add a 6 inch riser block and you get 92.5 + 12 = 104.5. However, my riser kit came with a 105" blade and it was too loose..... So I e-mailed Grizzly tech support and they said the new spec for the G0555 was 93.5 inches without the riser block, but they have not changed any of the parts, they just made adjustments to the threaded adjuster rod. This also made me scratch my head because 93.5 + 12 = 105.5, and they still spec a 105" blade for use with the riser block. Therefore, yours is too tight.

   So, short answer is that if you loosen the hex set screws on the big and small cylindrical spacers on the top wheel adjuster rod and play with their position along the rod, you can take up or release at least 1/2" adjustment in the upper wheel, allowing for the difference in blade size. The tension gauge is not as accurate as it had been: but it seems that for every 3 carpenters, there are at least 5 different opinions as to the worth of a bandsaw tension guide anyway.

1. 
   biznazion | Dec 30, 2004 09:21pm | #4

   Thanks Abe - I spoke with grizzly this morning and they told me the same thing - adjust those spacers on the rod to allow the top wheel top drop down a bit to accept the blade. I don't plan on using this blade for very long, but I did want to make a couple cuts to test out the saw.

3. 
   Woodster | Dec 30, 2004 07:41pm | #3

   Just bought the same saw and it is suppose to arrive today. Also adding the riser block.  WIll let you know if I have the same problem.  By the way, everyone I have to talked with as told me to throw away the blade that comes with the saw and to buy a new one.  If you go to Amazon and find the Grizzly product screen, there is a discussion forum.  Several recommendations on good blades as well as discussion on the band saw.

4. 
   forestgirl | Dec 30, 2004 11:01pm | #5

   The new saws (or the riser kit, maybe) are supposed to come with explicit instructions on installing the blade, solving the mystery you are describing.  Sounds like you got results by calling Grizzly though.

   This was a big problem when the saw first came out, because there were no instructions and most of the tech people didn't know about the confusion yet, or how to solve it.

   If anyone else didn't get complete instructions with theirs, and can't quite figure out the assembly, I'd strongly suggest calling Grizzly.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   biznazion | Dec 31, 2004 01:34am | #6

   I figured there should be something in the manual, but could not find it last night. After seeing your post - I went back through the saw manual page by page and finally found a mention of the spacers on page 34 and a very short section on changing the setting. This is in the way back by the maintenance section. I guess you could say that it *is* there, but it's certainly not clear and there's no mention of having to change that setting on the riser kit instructions - which would have been most helpful. With help from this forum and a call to grizzly it's all taken care of and I'm slicing away! Thanks.

5. 
   SawdustSteve | Dec 31, 2004 03:02am | #7

   I ordered my 555 on Mon of this week. Received a call from delivery service that I will have it this Wed. Are there any surprises I should know about?? I assume EVERYTHING comes in one huge 200lb. package. Any problems with assembling the base stand? Has anyone tried changing the belt to the lower speed?? Is it easy or should I make sure that small kids are out of the area so they don't add some new words to their vocabulary? Does anyone have the 1019 (standard model)? Is the upper wheel bracket interchangible on these two units in case I want to get rid of the quick blade release mechanism??
   Thanks.... SawdustSteve
   And.... a Happy and Healthy New Year to all.......

1. 
   beachfarm | Dec 31, 2004 03:23am | #8

   Setting up the bandsaw is pretty straight-forward - base, trunions and otherwise. I will say that the time you take in building/calibrating the saw (during setup) will be reflected in the saws overall performance. True of any tool, I suppose. I've had this bandsaw in my shop for some time now and continue to be impressed with how well the unit performs.If you're installing the riser kit, just back the tension WAY down and the blade will slip over the wheels.Regards.

2. 
   DavidxDoud | Dec 31, 2004 06:05am | #9

   I ordered my 555 on Mon of this week.

   hmmm...I ordered one this afternoon...so I don't have any answers to your questions...  but I've been browsing the manual here - http://images.grizzly.com/grizzlycom/manuals/G0555_m.pdf?  looks like the stand is no big deal,  just need a couple of metric wrenches...there is a detailed parts list for each saw availible at the website,  you might be able to tell something about the wheel bracket there - Is there some reason you think you might want to get rid of the quick tension release? 

   I've been trying to justify a full featured Delta for several years,  but couldn't seem to get that much money in one pile for that purpose...I kinda feel like I'm selling out - - half the price...with an increase coming next week...couldn't resist...

    "there's enough for everyone"

1. 
   SawdustSteve | Dec 31, 2004 05:11pm | #10

   Dave... From earlier parts of this thread, it seems that blade length is somewhat critical. I did not get the riser block, so my blade length should be 93 inch length. I've purchased blades from several different sources that WERE supposed to be 93 inches and have found that the length varries all over the place from 91 1/2 to 94 inches. Without the quick release, all I have to do is take up (or down) a few extra turns on the tensioning screw. WITH the quick release I've got to start adjusting several collars. If you look in a Delta parts book the standard 'table insert' that fits their bandsaw also fits the 24" scroll-saw. In both manuals this part has the same part number. For the 555 bandsaw, all parts start with 'P0555' and the second half of the number refers to the number assigned in the parts drawing. For the 1019 bandsaw all parts start with 'P1019'. Since the parts are numbered in a different order, the second half of the number is different even though the part is identical. Only Grizzly has a cross-index to part numbers.As an Industrial Arts (shop) teacher for 37 years I've purchased parts and repaired enough machines to qualify me as a Delta repair specialist. Believe me, when you maintain THAT many machines, having same numbers on parts is REALLY helpful. So... if I need a new wheel tire for my 555 and you offer me a wheel tire from your 1019, I KNOW if they are the same. No guessing involved! Look in the Grizzly catalog. The 6" riser kit for the two 14" bandsaws have two different part numbers. Are the two blocks the same or are they truely different? It's just a technical detail but that is the info I like to have in my parts manual. Happy & Healthy New Year... SawdustSteve... Long Island, NY

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Jan 02, 2005 05:29am | #11

   and a happy new year to you...

   got the confirmation on my order last night - machine is on the truck in Springfield - - it hasn't moved all day - don't they understand it's for me?!!

   and I just checked the website - 0555 is now $425 (+$58 shipping) - - "look Honey,  I saved $50"...at least it's worth a try...

   interesting about the numbers - seems like it would be a recipe  for a lot of confusion...probably an anachronism from the early days that's a bigger deal to sort out than to live with....

   regards...

    "there's enough for everyone"

2. 
   DavidxDoud | Jan 06, 2005 03:20am | #12

   well,  whaddu think?...

   I assume you have recieved your saw and have made some dust...

   mine came today in the middle of an ice storm - spent the afternoon assembling and doing an initial tune...stopped to enjoy supper with the family,  about to go back out and check a couple of things and then make the first cut...

    "there's enough for everyone"

1. 
   highfigh | Jan 06, 2005 04:06am | #13

   Did the saw come with the greasy anti-rust stuff on it? If so, how much of it was covered? I was in CA till last night and got a call Monday that mine was in at the freight company. Actually, you saved $65. The $50 on the saw, $8 on shipping and $7 on the riser block. Does anyone out there use a mobile base for their bandsaw?
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   badoyn | Jan 06, 2005 05:07am | #14

   I happen to use the Shop Fox base. Works great.Michael

3. 
   DavidxDoud | Jan 06, 2005 05:36am | #15

   the only 'grease' (cosmoline,  or the modern equivalent) was on the table,  with a little on the riser - mineral spirits,  paper towel and 5 minutes made it disappear - -

   was wishing I had sprung for the magnetic light (shop bandsaw space has poor lighting...)

   have to agree,  the provided blade is poor - and I can pick a bunch of nits about the machine,  but runs smoothly -

   gave all of it a good coat of wax,  tomorrow,  I think I'll put a shelf and door on the base - kinda wish I had a project for it...

    "there's enough for everyone"

4. 
   biznazion | Jan 06, 2005 06:58am | #17

   I've been tuning up the new saw and making some test cuts. Every thing seems to be aligned correctly and the blade is traking in the center of the wheels. I am hearing a some kind of screaching sound when cutting though - continues for a couple seconds after I'm done with the cut and then stops. Any ideas what might be going on?

5. 
   highfigh | Jan 06, 2005 07:55am | #18

   Could be resonance in the blade or the blade against the thrust bearing. I have seen a lot of people recommend honing the back edges of the blade with an abrasive, usually stone. The back edge is very crisp and any extra friction makes noise. I'll find out if I hear the same thing when I get mine in the next couple of days. I don't intend to use the original blade much unless it performs better than what I have heard about them here in Knots.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

6. 
   DavidxDoud | Jan 14, 2005 07:16am | #26

   might want to check my post to 'Sawdust Steve' above - - how does your saw behave? - any thoughts?

   thanks...

    "there's enough for everyone"

7. 
   highfigh | Jan 14, 2005 08:06am | #27

   You might need to check the wheels to make sure they are coplanar. If the upper arm is rotated to the rear relative to the base (definitely possible since it needed disassembly to add the riser), it could cause the guide to move away from the blade. Also, look at the mating surfaces at the base/riser and riser/upper arm. I needed to nudge mine into place with a dead blow hammer because the index pins fit so well. Yours may be tilted backward a little. The small indexing pins on top of the base and riser are only there to guide the pieces together, not be the determining factor for absolute alignment. If you loosen the large bolt a bit so you can rotate the upper arm to the point that the guide is where it should be, I think you'll find that it takes about a minute to get it into position. I picked up my 0555 last Friday and assembled it before watching the Packers stink the place up. Pretty easy. As Forestgirl said, get rid of the blades it came with. I tried mine with the ones that came with it. I won't be using them again. I did get a couple from a local guy who makes them up as needed and with the 1/2" 4TPI, I was cutting 1"x6" white oak about 1/32" thick. I thought it would blow out along the way, but it didn't. It tracks really well after minimal adjustment and the fence is parallel to the miter slot. To whomever said they put their ratchet on the outside of the bolts and the box wrench on the nut inside- didn't yours come with short carriage bolts that fit the square holes in the base? About the only things I would like to change with this saw- ship it with nylock nuts and instead of shipping it with the current blade, put a real one on it. My 1/2" cost $10 and the back edge is already rounded, so I don't even need to do that. It's a lot heavier than the cheezy one supplied and if I can get one for $10, all of the manufacturers can, too. It's a lot sharper and cuts a lot truer than the other one. I'll see how long it lasts and post it here. Could be a good resource for others who want to get a good blade at a reasonable price.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

8. 
   DavidxDoud | Jan 14, 2005 08:32am | #28

   ya,  I thought there was someone else that snarfed up one of these before the price increase,  just couldn't remember where/who - thanks..

   I'll fiddle with the saw a bit tomorrow - I've got a job (two actually...actually,  make that 3...) so I'm not gonna hve all day to tweak - new blades are in transit - may get them tomorrow too...

   I paid close attention to the mating surfaces, as far as clean and deburred - the pins fit tightly and I didn't give any thought to making any rotational adjustment - - I'll get the straightedge out...glad the thing disassembles readily,  sorry I gotta do it tho...

   thanks again...

    

    "there's enough for everyone"

9. 
   biznazion | Jan 14, 2005 08:00pm | #34

   I was just reading over the thread... I have noticed that the guide does indeed move in relation to the blade when moved up and down. Since this is my first bandsaw, I'm not sure what to expect and sort of figured that was normal with that much travel. I don't have any new blades yet, just the one that shipped with it, and I don't have it tensioned very tight - probably at the 1/8th mark or a little higher. I've only use the saw lightly since I got it but so far the cuts have been pretty good. I've been meaning to get some new blades ordered but just haven't gotten around to it.

10. 
    SawdustSteve | Jan 06, 2005 06:46am | #16

    Got mine today... Greasy stuff on the table top. Simple green took it off in no time. Against my better judgement, I gave the table its first coat of wax. I think I'll wait a short time before I give the table top a coat of 'Gun Browning' chemical so it matches the other rich brown machine surfaces on my other machines. The hardest job so far was to locate my set of metric wrenches to assemble the base. OK, dumb question... why do they supply 16 flat washers for the bolts that hold the stand together? The serated lock nut holds everything nicely. Dumb question #2... If all the hardware is metric, why do they supply 3/8-16 nuts for the leveling leg? Why not metric all the way through? The base is in my basement, the saw is sitting upstairs. I'm waiting for a friend to come over tomorrow to help me take it down stairs and lift it onto the base. By the way, that base is strong enough to support an elephant. It's accounts for almost 45 lbs. of the total package weight. Perhaps I'm an off base, but I want to eliminate the blade quick-release and use it the way I've been using my ancient Delta for the past 35 or so years. OK, I'll have to admit I did replace the tires after 16 years of use, that's without easing off the pressure! I've got to order some Timberwolf blades to see how this saw really works. SawdustSteve where it's snowing on and off all day

11. 
    DavidxDoud | Jan 06, 2005 08:26am | #19

    well,  the washers are to go under the heads,  not the nuts...my dumb question here,  which way did you orient the bolts for the base? - -

    as far as the mix of metric/SAE,  I have one stock answer that covers all 'why' questions; 'money' - - don't know specifically,  but guarentee it involves money...

    it took me a little while to get the tension mechanism dialed in - really,  I think it ought to be one of the first adjustments,  not the last...other than that, I think the release is fine,   durability over years is the unkown...

    ya,  now we get to spend $75 on blades...

     "there's enough for everyone"

12. 
    SawdustSteve | Jan 07, 2005 06:58am | #20

    OK, I just got it up and running.
    Let's see... the bolts in the base. The heads of the bolts are toward the center, that way I can get my socket wrench on the head of the bolt and an open end wrench on the nuts. I still have to play with the tensioning device. One problem that I will have to look at in the morning when I'm awake is... the trunions on the table top do not line up properly with the trunion seats. If I tighten the back table knob, the front trunion 'cams out' of the front trunion seat. I HOPE it is just that the two table mmunted trunions slipped out of adjustment when they were tightened at the factory. If not... 'Hello service department'...
    Yea, the blade they supply looks like it was stamped out of a piece of metal strapping. Right now I would rather pay an additional $5-$10 and have them send a REAL blade with the saw. My only other suggestion (complaint) is that it woud be nice if they supplied the proper metric hex key for adjusting the bearings. I had the right one rattling around in my toolbox, but there are lots of woodworkers who do not have the correct wrench. Having gone through several REALLY strange foreign cars, I have a fairly complete set of metric sockets, wrenches and hex keys but I'm not sure if most woodworkers have these tools. I also have a few 'Whitworth' wrenches somewhere in the garage for them pesky English cars.Has anyone out there ordered blades from Grizzly? Any comments on the quality of them? I know that I'm ordering some Timberwolf blades tomorrow morning.
    SawdustSteve

13. 
    DavidxDoud | Jan 07, 2005 08:48am | #21

    ...it woud be nice if they supplied the proper metric hex key for adjusting the bearings.

    ya,  and you'll need another size as you sort out the tensioning mechanism...

    ... good luck on the trunions - I had no problems - hopefully it is something simple and fixable...

    I've got things as tuned as I can get them with this blade - spent some time today making a couple of brackets to store the miter gauge and fence  - put a shelf in the base,  closed off the back access and put a door in the front - placed the parts left from the riser block conversion in there along with the manual and such..."there's enough for everyone"

14. 
    forestgirl | Jan 07, 2005 09:33pm | #22

    Kinda odd about the missing hex key.  I'm pretty sure my old 14" Grizzly came with it included.

    Don't waste your time on Grizzly blades.  They do, however, carry Lenox blades.  But they don't say which line, and from what I've heard there's a big difference between Lenox's different lines.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

15. 
    SawdustSteve | Jan 07, 2005 10:17pm | #23

    I was right, one of the trunions on the table was out of line. I took off the trunion bracket and used it as my alignment tool. Everything went together smoothly. As I said earlier, the blade they supply was made from a piece of banding strap. Its only purpose is to keep the upper wheel from flopping around during transport. Like David, I'm making a shelf inside the cabinet to hold extra blades and a holder for the 3 hex keys I need for the machine. I'm making a set of brackets to hold the miter gauge and rip fence. One modification I do to all my machines is to add a duplex outlet on the machine. It gives me a place to plug in the shop-vac and a worklight that I will mount directly on the saw.
    I keep a 3 ring binder with plastic top-loading sleeves for ALL my tool manuals, parts lists and related paperwork. This way I look in ONE place and have all the info at hand. When I was comparing the 555 to the 1019, I downloaded BOTH sets of parts lists. I'll keep one with the saw instruction book, the other in its own sleeve just in case I need it. I will write to Grizzly with several comments. One will be something to the effect that after seeing the blade they supply with the saw, I am afraid of ordering blades from them. That free blade is one of the worst pieces of 'public relations' I have ever seen.
    Now to find my Timberwolg catalog and order some REAL blades.Enjoy the weekend..... SawdustSteve Long Island, NY

16. 
    forestgirl | Jan 07, 2005 10:20pm | #24

    Steve, would you be so kind as to describe how you add the duplex outlet?  Sounds like a great idea, but I'm a little hesitant to assume I know how it's done.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

17. 
    DavidxDoud | Jan 14, 2005 07:14am | #25

    well,  it's been another week -

    I have discovered tonight a situation that concerns me - - the upper guide does not travel parallel to the blade - from app 1" off the table to the top of the guide travel (riser block here,  so ~12") the 'support bearing' tightens against the blade - - I hadn't run the guide up and down,  just sawing some piddling jobs with the guide within 2-3" of the table...

    ...now,  I need to analyse the situation...there is no adjustment to the guide travel - - it just slides up and down in the machining of the upper frame arm...the manual doesn't address the issue as far as I have found - -

    I'm thinking the 'co-planar' relationship of the wheels might come into play here,  I'll check that tomorrow - the blade tracked so nicely on the wheels during the 'test run' that I did not check that relationship (supposely set at the factory)...

    I also note that with the guide near the table,  applying and releasing the blade tension by use of the lever causes the upper blade guide to deflect front to back about 3/16" - there seems no be no appreciable deflection right to left...thinking the saw is not as stiff as might be desirable...thinking that if it deflects this much with the factory 3/8" GP blade,  what's it gonna do with a resaw blade?

    thinking I'm seeing why it cost what it did...thinking that calling it the 'Ultimate' might be a wee bit of hubris...

     "there's enough for everyone"

18. 
    forestgirl | Jan 14, 2005 09:51am | #29

    I don't think it's that unusual for the guide to change position in relation to the blade as it is raised and lowered.  I've always considered this one of the things I sacrificed to save money on a saw, but since I've never used a Jet, Delta or other 14" saw, I don't know if they have the same quirk.

    As far as releasing tension and reapplying goes, how tightly do you have that blade tensioned?  As you probably know by now, I'm a fan of Timber Wolf blades because they require much less tension to operate properly, which is a big bonus with 14" saws, light-weight as they are (vitually all of them).

    Maybe some Jet and Delta 14" owners can pipe up here and tell us how true the guard and guide assembly travels when moved from bottom to top.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

19. 
    highfigh | Jan 14, 2005 05:37pm | #30

    I really can't see the supplied blade surviving an excessive amount of tension. Being as thin as it is, depending on its hardness, the blade will stretch before making the upper arm bend. Also, if the upper arm is bending and the table is square to the blade with the tension released, the angle will decrease once the tension is increased. My riser had some paint on the mating surfaces, so I suspect the same here. I'll go out and check mine for this deflection when it warms up. It's 4 degrees now.
    "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

20. 
    DavidxDoud | Jan 14, 2005 06:14pm | #32

    ...if the upper arm is bending and the table is square to the blade with the tension released, the angle will decrease once the tension is increased...

    I'm not seeing the upper arm 'nose diving' when applying tension - rather it is twisting - I have the blade guide bearings set per instructions,  and I don't see them deflecting the side of the blade as the assembly is moved up and down - rather,  as I stand to the side and apply the blade tension with the lever,  I can observe the guide assembly move toward the back of the saw (away from the back of the blade) by about 3/16" (when the guide is lowered to a inch or so from the table)

    I cleaned/scraped the mating surfaces of the riser block and corrosponding surfaces of the saw before assembling - I'll check the torque on the bolt as I tweak - of course there is no torque spected in the instructions...

     "there's enough for everyone"

21. 
    highfigh | Jan 14, 2005 06:37pm | #33

    OK, I thought it was just dropping the arm straight down. I'll have to look at mine. I can't see why it would twist unless it is actually a bit undersized or the geometry of the forces is causing it.
    "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

22. 
    Peter36 | Jan 15, 2005 09:17pm | #35

    Hi David, as others have said, I would check to see if the wheels are coplanar. If they are then I would have to say that the milling is off where the guide post slides up and down. If this is a cast piece or has no way of adjusting I guess you will have to live with it or send it back. My 86 model Jet is the same way and it is very frustrating. If the wheels are not coplanar then I would shim where required and hopefully this relieves your problem.  Good luck.

23. 
    highfigh | Jan 15, 2005 09:40pm | #36

    I went out yesterday and braved the cold. When I locked the tensioner, the thumbscrew on the guide moved maybe 1/32". I used the top of the fence as my reference and it really didn't seem to move. If you have two straightedges that are long enough to clamp onto the wheels at the same time, you can look down from above and see if the straightedges are parallel. If they're way off, I doubt that the blade will track without wandering. You could also look at the tires for where the blade tracks. If one wheel is behind the other, the blade will be closer to the front edge of that wheel. Why not loosen the big bolt and see if the upper arm can be rotated. I'll go out again and see how much position of the thrust bearing changes in relation to the blade at different heights when I raise and lower the guide, too.
    "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

    Edited 1/15/2005 1:47 pm ET by highfigh

24. 
    DavidxDoud | Jan 16, 2005 04:35am | #37

    well,  I spent much of yesterday evening tweaking - - about 80% of the problem was ameliorated when I removed the sliver of wood that had wedged between lower support bearing and the blade...

    that left about .045" of 'run-in' on the upper guide between the lowest and highest setting...I removed the blade,  table, and trunnion base - I loosened the bolt thru the riser block and gained some fraction of a degree rotating the upper arm toward the front of the saw,  tightened the bolt and started using a straightedge to investigate the 'coplaner' situation...

    frankly,  it's hard to get a definative  reading...there's so much slop in between the upper wheel bracket (part that slides up and down when tensioning the blade) and the grooves in the upper arm that the wheel flops around...I measured with a dial indicator,  and the machined grooves are .030" bigger than the corrosponding area of the bracket...would seem to me to be a lot sloppier than desirable...but maybe not...

    I reassembled,  placing a washer behind the upper wheel,  installed a 1/4" timberwolf blade - ran thru the adjustments,  an ended up with about .015" run-in on the upper guide between bottom and top - far from perfect,  but probably good enough to live with - -

    using the dial indicator,  I measured the movement of the guide arm when using the lever to apply tension to the blade - - .030" movement toward the back of the machine between no tension and a fully tensioned (low tension) TW 1/4" blade - - I'll check it again when I put the 1/2" resaw blade on it,  gotta think it'll be quite a bit more...

    I will say the TW blade is a tremendous improvement - I expect the saw will perform satisfactorly - -

    I feel like I got what I paid for...

     

     "there's enough for everyone"

25. 
    DavidxDoud | Jan 14, 2005 05:41pm | #31

    ...how tightly do you have that blade tensioned?...

    tensioned to the indicated pressure for that width blade on the tension blade - - I know that the 'flutter' strategy for setting tension might well reduce it,  stock blade doesn't  seem worth the effort - got 4 different Timberwolves showing up soon,  I'll play more with tension when they arrive...

    gotta take dad to town,  I'll heat up the shop and fiddle with the saw a bit this afternoon...

     "there's enough for everyone"