Just received my new HNT Gordon 1-1/4 shoulder plane Friday afternoon. Tryed it over the weekend. Whoa Molly what a nice tool to work with.
Great heft and the blade only needed a little touch up on with the diamond dust to bring it to my standard. The more I use wood bodied planes, the more convinced I become. I now have a Sargent 3412 (which I use as a scrub), the little chinese smoother, round and hollow from woodcraft, an ECE Jointer and the HNT Gordon Shoulder. All great planes. The chinese planes especially.
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Perhaps you and others can help me understand the value of a wooden plane over a steel bed plane. The wood can't last longer than steel and given the wood movement due to changes in moisture, don't these make a wooden plane less desirable?
http://www.planemaker.com/articles/
This site and its makers can tell you more then you probably want to know about wooden planes and their advantages...
Thanks for the suggestion. I found the site more attuned to folks who already were convinced wooden planes were better than iron and then deciding which type of wood from which to make them. My question is why wooden planes would be better than iron planes.
There are a bunch of discussions on this; a recent one is here http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=12569.1
I have a couple more months and a bunch more square feet of mostly figured cherry and hard maple, as well as a high-end bedrock fore plane. I turn to wooden planes for finer work or trickier grain after initial work with the metal ones. They just do a better job on these than standard-angle metal planes, as well as being much lighter and easier to push (lower friction and weight).
Something that helps a lot here is that the irons are easy to pop out and touch up when the edge starts to tire. It is a single step process rather than popping the cap iron, pulling the blade, and removing the chipbreaker (and then reversing the process) every time, so I am less tempted to just push on through once the iron is past its prime. Probably says more about "lazy" than the tool, since it takes less than 30 seconds on the bedrock, but that's how it works for me....
I can't find the other recent discussion that talked about where you could try one if you are interested; I think it boiled down to http://www.toolsforwoodworking.com/ in New York or Highland in Atlanta (assuming that you are in North America to begin with....). There may be others; if you say where you are, someone nearby could chime in.
Regards,
/jvs
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