Replies

1. 
   mufti | Aug 16, 2006 05:39pm | #1

              No attachment but I've got it and it's a good idea. Could be used to delineate

   margins of small recesses to be routed in the back of frames etc for hanging and so on. Cheaper than a drill press and more convenient.

1. 
   Steinmetz | Aug 17, 2006 12:11am | #3

   Mufti,I'm working on the attachment. Seems the original sketch was in a 8-1/2 x 11" format and Prospero said it was too large to use as an attachment' I'm new at using my scanner and every time I try to decrease the sketch size to 50 percent, it still prints out full size Help! Forestgirl? You are correct as to the description. The sleeves are a 'slip'fit and have threaded holes (6-32nc)for two machine screws and 'jam'nutsThe holes for the screws, are positioned to enter the fore and aft slots in the shells of the holesaw. I made three sets of these 'Back to back' holes in a condecending spiral order which provides for about six positions 'depths'I'm making some toys that require boring shallow holes to glue round magnets exactly flush with the surface of the material.
   Steinmetz.

2. 
   RickL | Aug 16, 2006 06:23pm | #2

   I've bought an adapter that allows you to mount two different sized  holesaws to enlarge previously drilled holes.

   http://www.mcfeelys.com/product.asp?productID=HS-0019

1. 
   Steinmetz | Aug 17, 2006 12:22am | #4

   Rickl I,ve done that with two shells screwed on to the same arbor 'piggy back' style.
   Great when you need a flush shouldered hole for a lock cylinder.
   (Can't get a grip on the cylinder to 'wrench' it out. Steinmetz.

1. 
   jmorr87 | Aug 17, 2006 05:53am | #5

   We have been using a similar method for repairing damaged pine floors. We use the usual hole saw/ drill bit to make a hole in a board.  Then we back the drill up inside the saw and cut out damaged areas and the same method to make new patches.  Works great on floors but on furniture we use the router inlay method.

   Good Luck

2. 
   forestgirl | Aug 17, 2006 06:29pm | #6

   I love McFeely's description, LOL, ending with "or (ahem) correcting someone else’s mistakes."forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

3. 
   Steinmetz | Aug 17, 2006 08:38pm | #7

   Finally uploaded smaller version of attachment THANKS TO FORREST GURL

1. 
   KeithNewton | Aug 18, 2006 05:22pm | #8

   If you have a lot of holes to drill with a hole saw, and want to speed them up, I like to use a 1/4" grinding wheel, to grind away two of every three teeth, which gives a large enough gullet to hold more sawdust. I also touch the front of the one that gets left, which reduces the hook angle, and eliminates a lot of tendency to snag.

1. 
   Steinmetz | Aug 18, 2006 11:22pm | #9

   Great thinking Keith Reminds me of a similar trick I had to do for a good carbide blade I had on my table saw. Seems by accident, I knocked off a few(?) teeth and the blade was off balance. Of course,I had several replacement blades but,that blade I used exclusivly for aluminum / brass /bronze & copper. I removed additional teeth making the total three.( equally spaced on a 60 tooth blade.) ground down the gullets and that blade worked perfectly for years. Still have it somewhere? When I installed locks in hollow steel doors (not that thin &#$% they use on household foam filled interior doors today,)I found when I had to bore holes for a variety of reasons ,the holesaws dulled much too soon.

   I found that if I drilled a series of holes in a circle (at one oclock/ and six/three/nine o clock first , then the boring went easier cooler and faster.
   The blades stayed sharper much much longer to boot. Steinmetz

   Edited 8/18/2006 4:32 pm ET by Steinmetz

1. 
   dgreen | Aug 18, 2006 11:32pm | #10

   The relief holes work well on wood too, gives the sawdust a place to go. Quicker cooler holes and makes the saw last longer.
   Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb

2. 
   KeithNewton | Aug 19, 2006 12:12am | #11

   For a number of years I rented the back end of my shop to a friend who would make a lot of office cubicles, that always needed grommet holes drilled through the plastic laminated 1 1/8" particle board. He would sometimes have 20 -30 tops back there that needed one or two 2.5" holes drilled in them. He would be at it for a long time. I finally got tired of watching him wasting time, and took one of his old tools and did this to it. After seeing how well this worked, one night, I took two teeth off of an old saw-blade, and brazed them onto another hole-saw with a really big gullet in front of each. With that he could just come down and go right through it one quick pass. I think you can buy them like that now, but not back then.

1. 
   Steinmetz | Aug 19, 2006 03:09am | #12

   A fine example of 'Yankee ingenuity' Hat's off to Keith.Another trick I devised when absolute accuracy is required is to Drill the pilot hole with a ¼"center drill.
   Then, substitute a length of ¼"drill rod in the holesaw's mandrel

   The'pilot drill furnished with holesaws tend to chew up the pilot holes and produce an egg shaped hole and a resulting crappy end result. If you've ever had to bore a hole in a rosewood /walnut/ prefinished or Formica clad door for a close fitted lock cylinder 'dead on' aligned to the lock's cylinder or spindle hole, you'll find it nearly impossible with the paper template supplied.

   I solved that problem by making a pilot centering slug.(Disk) It screws into the threaded hole for the lock's cylinder.The disk has a ¼" pilot hole. After I mark the door's locations for the borings, I bore them first oversized, (½") install the lock's body ,then drill the cylinder hole with the proper sized hole using the pilot device.
   Little donut shaped disks drop out.
   Steinmetz

   Edited 8/18/2006 8:17 pm ET by Steinmetz