Replies

1. 
   kennedy136 | Dec 02, 2002 05:03am | #1

   Acorn,

            Get the oneway grinding jigs for your grinder and follow their instructions which are very good.  Get a big roughing gouge(1.5 to 1.75 inches Crown tools makes a nice one) and learn how to sharpen it.  The oneway jig makes it easy. Learn how to sharpen all of your gouges and chisels on the grinder well and you will find honing isn't necessary except for very soft woods.  Weight your lathe down with some sandbags on the undercarriage to dampen vibration.  This is critical for faceplate work/out of balance turnings etc.  Keep the bevel rubbing and make some shavings.  I must warn you though,  the lathe is downright addicting and I'm not joking either.  It is the only machine in the shop capable of producing a finished product (right down to the finish) without any intermediate steps.  This makes it tremendously appealing. Have fun!

                                             Mark

2. 
   BG | Dec 02, 2002 05:49am | #2

   I'm a newbie also, started about a year ago. The Professors advice is very relevant.  I would add just a couple of thoughts: 

   Take your time picking your tools... lot of cash can go down the drain

   Find a good source of free lumber.  I've got a place not too far that does fancy milling with lots of expensive woods...their dumpsters are great for suppling practice wood.

   good luck    

3. 
   jako17 | Dec 02, 2002 07:57am | #3

   Welcome to the world of wood turning !I totally agree with the previous messages

   Mike Darlow has written a couple of good  though rather technical books. My advice is spend a few hours with an accomplished turner as it is difficult to appreciate the angle of approach from 2 dimensional drawings and vidio. Also unlike alot of woodworking tools, lathe tools need significant reshaping from the original grind.I turn professionally ,yet still find it addictive but also relaxing. Try green wood turning,remember, crotch wood ,burls ,reaction wood, the stuff cabinet makers dread is great for turning Above all make shavings!

                                                        jako

4. 
   DennisS | Dec 02, 2002 07:34pm | #4

   I"m relatively new to turning as well and agree with what's been said so far, especially with regard to keeping the tools sharp and adding weight to the lathe. I started with essentially the same machine that you have and have migrated up to a heavier machine with more power and features - that's how addictive it is!

   What's attractive to me is the fact that the workpiece is what's moving rather than the sharp edge of a tool like a saw or jointer blade. While this presents a somewhat safer situation as far as retaining appendages to your arm and wrist, it's not wthout its dangers, of course. Thus there are some issues of safety relative to turning that are different but none the less as important as with any woodworking power tool.

   Since you mentioned doing things other than just spindle turning, get yourself a good quality scroll chuck, One Way, Nova, Vicmark, etc. Get your wood blank as round and balanced as you can before mounting on the lathe to eliminate a lot of unnecessary work roughing it out and to minimize out of balance turning as much as possible.

   Good lighting is vital. Especially when you get working inside a deep vessel. Sawdust control, which is an oxymoron as far as lathe work is concerned (in my opinion since we're talking about mass quantities of shavings) means lots of cleanup done frequently. But it does come into play during finishing since here's where you'll end up creating virtual clouds of find sanding dust.

   I'll mention again the business of weighting down the lathe since that was my biggest complaint with the smaller lathe - sacks of sand, concrete blocks or anything in smaller portions that makes it easier to move one at a time are great but don't spare the weight. Even for the size of material you can put on your lathe, you'd be surprised at how much vibration even a slight out of balance piece can produce at high speed of roatation.

   Most of all - just go out to your fire wood pile and grab some blocks of wood. Rough it out on the band saw, mount it in the lathe and start making shavings. Practice, practice, practice. Green wood is a lot easier to cut and the edge on your tools lasts longer. 'Rough' turn stuff to about 3/4" thick, put it aside in a paper bag to season a while then come back and do the finish work. Or if your impatient like me, go ahead and finish the piece and live with the warpage and occasional cracking - that's where using scrap wood from the wood pile comes in nicely since you haven't spent a lot of money for the raw materials but you've take a blank from start to finish to get the hang of things. If it warps or cracks, which it most likely will, you're not out money for materials but you've gotten lots of practice none the less.

   Welcome to the world of turning junkies!

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   ownersrep | Dec 02, 2002 11:03pm | #5

   I'm another newbie and have been reading your posts with great interest.  I'm really struggling with sharpening.  I don't have any jig at this point and unfortunately only have a hi-speed 6" grinder.  I set through a lot of free demos by Steven Russell at the WW show that was just in Denver and he said Tormek was the only way to go (but the Tormek booth was right next to him and they may have been sponsoring him).  Probably not a real unbiased opinion.  I took a basic turning class at Woodcraft and our instructor freehanded them on a 6" grinder and didn't recommend any jig.  I bought several Raffan tapes and he freehands them on what looks like a low-speed 8".  I've tried freehanding on my 6" grinder, I can't get them sharp and I'm grinding up a lot of expensive tools.  Should I save up for the Tormek or spend less for a low-speed 8" grinder and some jigs.  I'm afraid I'll end up with almost as much in a dry grind system and still not be able to get a decent edge on my tools.

   Thanks for your help.

   Edited 12/2/2002 3:05:04 PM ET by Jim in CO

   Edited 12/2/2002 4:14:00 PM ET by Jim in CO

1. 
   DennisS | Dec 03, 2002 01:48am | #8

   Like you, I didn't have much in the way of sophisticated sharpening equipment and splurged on the Tormek. I can't say enough good things about it - the only drawback is that the jigs cost additional (if you buy just the basic machine) and they do add up to a lot after a while.

   I've also since learned that a skew chisel is better sharpened with a flat, rather than a concave bevel which is what the Tormek jig produces.

   One thing's for sure - you'll never 'burn' the steel using a Tormek.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

2. 
   jako17 | Dec 03, 2002 01:52am | #9

   Hi Jim

           The Tormek system is good but pricey .The fingernail profile on the gouge is probably giving you difficulty.I suggest :

   1  Buy HSS tools

   2 A White wheel or an O'Donnell Pink wheel

   3  Use a light touch and keep quenching the tool

   I manage well on a 6in fast grinder .But would prefer a 1in by 8in diameter

   The wider wheel allows more room for the upward rolling motion of the fingernail grind

        Also Robert Sorby make agood grinding jig for less than the tormek which may suit your purpose             Jako           

1. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 03, 2002 02:48am | #10

   Hey, i just use a home made belt sander to sharpen my chisels.  Works great.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood

2. 
   ownersrep | Dec 03, 2002 03:28am | #11

   Jakco,

   I've done 1 & 2 (tools are all Sorby and I have a white wheel).  I've tried to do 3 but I seem to end up with so many facets that the tool is worse than when I started.  I think I saw the Sorby jig at Woodcraft or Rockler and it wasn't too expensive.  I just hate to keep throwing more money at it when the problem is mostly the idiot doing the sharpening.  I have a belt sander, so I may give it a try (I know Marc Adams uses a belt sander to sharpen planes and chisels).  I sharpen chisels etc. on the sandpaper on glass trick (after burning the temper out of a couple chisels).  Like somebody said I really have trouble on the fingernail gouges, but I can even screw up a roughing gouge.  The skew is the one tool that I feel competent sharpening.  I guess a lot of it is practice, but it's sure frustrating seeing all that expensive HSS going up in sparks while the tool turns Blue.

   Thanks for you help. 

1. 
   jako17 | Dec 03, 2002 04:56am | #12

   If the tool turns blue you are pressing too hard ,and using up a lot  of stone.With a  spindle roughing gouge set the tool rest at 45 degrees,with the handle down and the tool at 90 deg to the axis of the grind stone touch the centre of the tool to stone .Then roll the tool to the left and to the right.When the sparks break over the inner edge into the hollow you have a single bevel (bezel) at 45 deg.As an illustration of how little pressure you need I often don't use a tool rest at all .I hasten to add DON'T do this till you have had a LOT of practice.Remember  barely kiss the stone there should be barely any thrust down on the tool rest.

                        Good luck and stay in touch

                                                       jako

2. 
   ownersrep | Dec 03, 2002 07:14pm | #13

   Thanks for your help guys.  I'll try to apply your suggestions.

   Jim

3. 
   RandMCapozzi | Dec 03, 2002 10:45pm | #15

   The Tormek is pricey. However, if you don't have a great deal of experience to nicely sharpen your tools, then I feel it is an excellent way to go. The beauty of the Tormek is that is make sharpening your tools VERY easy. And if it is easy, you're more likely to keep them sharp. And sharper tools are safer and provide better results and make wood working more enjoyable, IMO. So I see the Tormek as a sharpening equalizer to us newbee or hobbyist woodworkers that want sharp tools but don't have the extensive experience to use other "traditional" methods. Of course you have to have the pockets to pay for the equalizer. I guess it comes down to time or money. Unfortunately, I want sharp tools now, when I need them, and in the comfort of my shop. :-)

   BTW - My father-in-law has the Tormek and I couldn't believe how quickly I was able to sharpen all my tools!!

   --Rob 

4. 
   ownersrep | Dec 03, 2002 10:57pm | #16

   Thanks Rob, I've come to the same conclusion.  Unfortunately I didn't decide quick enough to catch last weeks WW show and their promotional prices.  You're right the present situation is neither safe or enjoyable. 

   Jim 

3. 
   crt2cu2 | Dec 04, 2002 05:28am | #20

   Jim,

   I've been turning wood for more than 25 years with occasional moments of success and more than a few 'oops' events.  Back when I started turning there was no such thing as videos nor classes available, at least in far off Montana where I live.  So I learned from trial and error and the occasional book I could find and devour.  But for your benefit, here is my two cents worth of things I've learned.  The fancy grinders now being sold are IMHO not necessary.  Grizzly sells low cost low speed grinders that are more than sufficient provided the grinding wheel is of good quality, correct composition for the steel or carbide you are cutting, and the tool rest shop modified for better tool stability.  I build  tool rests out of large blocks of wood carefully cut at the correct angles for lathe tools.  One of the most important things I learned (the hard way) about grinding is that the wheels require frequent dressing and that only a very light touch is needed to establish a bevel and create a wire edge.  My sharpening technique is to first dress the wheel properly with a diamond grinding tool  (not in bra and panties LOL) ahem, sorry for the play on words I could not resist.  Then, grinding freehand, bring the heel of the bevel on the lathe tool to the rest, gently tilt up and gently move back and forth on the wheel to sharpen.  Do these motions without changing the angle of the tool (lock your elbows into your stomach) and keep the tool flat and firmly on your shop built toolrest.  When you see sparks at the very edge of the tool then you will know that you are doing the right thing and attaining a sharp edge.  This usually takes only a few seconds.  Quench the tool in a can of old oil.  Check the tool bevel with an angle finder for accuracy.  Lastly, use at most a 120 grit grinding wheel for rough sharpening and even finer wheels for finish.  My sharpening setup is built from old electric motors with wheels ranging from 36 to 320 grit and finally a fabric honing wheel.  But remember that I make all my own turning tools (except gouges which I buy Sheffields brand) from various found pieces of quality steel.

   sawick

1. 
   ownersrep | Dec 04, 2002 06:58pm | #22

   Thanks Sawick. 

   I really appreciate all of you experienced turners giving us new guys the benifit of your experience.  Hopefully I'll be able to absorb some of you peoples experience and knowledge and shorten my learning curve.  I think turning could become an obsession if I let it.

   Again Thanks to All

   Jim

5. 
   joncu | Dec 02, 2002 11:40pm | #6

   I bought a lot of books and tapes, and I studied them.  I also bought a lot of tools and grinding jigs.  None of these gave me any confidence.  Then I attended David Ellsworth's three day school and everything changed.  I came away from that school knowing how to turn wood.  David is an acknowledged master and an excellent teacher.  I recommend his course, but there are many other courses and any good course is going to be very beneficial.  That's my advice and it's worth what you paid for it.l

1. 
   Jimma | Dec 03, 2002 09:04pm | #14

   Do you have a web address for Ellesworth, or is he teaching through a school? Jim

1. 
   joncu | Dec 04, 2002 01:09am | #17

   Jim, The web address for David Ellsworth is http://www.ellsworthstudios.com.  Jon

1. 
   Jimma | Dec 04, 2002 05:43am | #21

   Thank you. It looks like a good website and program. I may be a candidate. Jim

6. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 03, 2002 12:23am | #7

   I'm no expert by any means.  But, get a whole lot of scrap wood and start turning.  Turn to just make shavings, toys, spinner tops, bowls, wheels, whatever.  Turn for the pure joy of it.  And, learn as you go.

   The stuff I turn is mostly short stuff (knobs) and all I use is flat scraper chisels.  I make my own.  Get some tool steel (A2 is what I use), and play around with hardening it.  Use the mini tool set that came with the lathe to make some larger handles.  Mount your hand made chisels to them.

   Stick to it and 2 years from now (if your a slow learner like I) you'll be giving advice here!

   Have fun!  (ps - i have the same lathe.  It works)

   Also helps if you can hook up a BIG dust collector to it.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood

7. 
   GeeSeaWhy | Dec 04, 2002 01:25am | #18

   "plan to take class at local Woodcraft store eventually"

   I'd suggest you do that sooner rather than later. You can (and probably will) spend a ton of money on equipment. A little knowledge/experience will go a long way to ensuring that most of it gets spent on stuff *you* find useful.

   I would stick with the grinder you have for now. Get some cheap tools that you don't mind sacrificing (Harbor Freight is a good source for such) and practice.

   HTH

   Graeme

8. 
   crt2cu2 | Dec 04, 2002 04:49am | #19

   Acorn,

   Welcome to the wonderful world of woodturning!!

   I would recommend the book "Creative Woodturning" by Dale Nish as a complete reference work for the many facets of turning.  Tools: I make all my own tools (except for gouges) out of old files found in junk stores.  Buy only the thickest and heaviest.  Sharpening:  I have built a complete sharpening setup using old electric motors salvaged form washing machines, furnaces and whatnot.  Splurge on grinding wheels though.  Good sharpening practice starts while grinding down the old files into smooth surfaces and usable edges.  Making your own tool handles is good practice for spindle work.  Wear a dust mask and safety glasses or even better buy/build a dust collector system.  Be very conscientious about safety as lathe work accidents always seem to happen so fast with no chance for an operator to react.  Use green and/or scrap wood to start on.  Make friends with local tree trimmers for sources of turning stock.  Practice with Ron Kent's idea of controlling checking with a mix of water and dish soap (check his web site: mailto:[email protected]).   

   Start saving to buy a big bandsaw.  If you get into bowl work, a bandsaw is indespensable for stock preparation both for kiln dried and green wood projects.

   Perhaps join the American Association of Woodturners especially if you live near a local chapter.  I could go on and on as turning is my first love.  don't tell my wife that though <G>.

   sawick