Old planer did not snipe. Got a new planer and can’t get rid of new snipe. Using the same cleated aux sled from the old one and have adjusted and leveled both infeed and outfeed tables several times. Any ideas?
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Replies
How long are the boards? I had a snipe problem while planing 56" long boards. It essentially went away when I found a way to support the out feed boards roughly 3' from the cutter heads. I used a 6 foot level to set up a stock stand level with the outfeed table. As the boards came out I did need to guide them a little. That is to say support and lift gently onto the stand.
If that doesn't work, you may have to resort to the old stand by. Feed another board into the planer touching the end of the one in front of it.
Is it entry or exit snipe? I find I can eliminate entry snipe by lifting the board slightly as it enter the feed roller and maintaining slight upward pressure for at least 2-3 ft on longer boards. Exit snipe is controlled by either lifting slightly as the board comes out of the planer or using a slightly inclined outfeed table to accomplish the same thing.
The goal is to keep the leading or trailing edge of the board from lifting up into the cutterhead when it is only contacted by a single feed roller.
Old one good. New one bad.
You might get more useful info by sharing what machines you are talking about. They may have foibles that others know of and have dealt with.
Thanks all and good info. Swapped out an old Ridgid for a new spiral cutterhead Grizz G0889 and getting both entry and exit snipe on well machined stock. Hoping that it doesn't come down to adjusting the rollers. Will try all mentioned solutions ..
Rollers are the first place to start. Not familiar with that model, but my planer (Grizzly 1033] had a hold down bar just behind the cutter head that is crucial to get adjusted correctly.
I’m afraid it’s time to break out the manual and go through the whole adjustment sequence.
If it has bed rollers, lower them down flush or below the table.
That said, snipe can be inherent in the design if certain planers. To me, there’s not reason a planer should snipe at all.
When the tail end of the board leaves the first feed rollers, the weight of the board will make it raise towards the cutter head and create the snipe if the spring loaded out feed roller cannot maintain it flat on the table. To eliminate snipe, increase the out feed roller pressure and extend/adjust the out feed table length to reduce the moment arm trying to lift the tail end.
Decided to tackle roller adjustment. Since I always use a 4' long auxiliary melamine sled on the planer, I though that would take care of the in-feed and out-feed moment arms. Kinda want my old planer back. Thanks for all the good replies.
Are you engaging the cutterhead carriage lock lever every time? Few lunchbox planers can avoid snipe without the carriage locked. The old Deltas and DeWalts that didn't have them were typically nicknamed "Snipe-masters".
The diagram shows how snipe happens. You can try lifting up on the end of the board as it exits the machine. If you have snipe on the leading edge, lift up there as well.
Cutterhead is locked during planning, but will fiddle with it. It's a push down, pull up lever that does not feel very robust. If I had been able to check out this planer in person before buying it, I prolly woulda passed.
Thanks for the diagram. I always use an aux sled that keeps the piece level, so I've ruled out moment arm snipe.
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