About a month ago, my old router table took a terminal hit when a couple of 2x10s, which were standing on end, fell over and whacked the top and side of the router table. Luckily, my router wasn’t in it at the time, and since I had been thinking about building a new table anyhow, it wasn’t a big deal.
Of course, now that I’m going to have a new table, what better time to get a new table router? I’ve been using my DeWalt 625 and while it works fine, the lack of real above-the-table adjustments has been getting to me. I’ve kind of looked at the specs for the Freud FT1700VCEK, but not being able to actually see one has been a problem. I’ve looked at the Tritons too, but those tend to be kind of… pricey. Are there others that I should consider?
This is going to be a permanently mounted table router, weight is not an issue. I want above-the-table adjust and bit change and at least 2-2.5 HP. Dust collection is irrelevant since the new table will have a very nice dust collection system installed.
Thanks.
Replies
Cephus- I can only comment on the PC 7518 (since it's the only router i've ever owned) but i love it and have no complaints (other than the price tag). It has power to spare but lacks above-the-table height adjustment.
I will suggest a visit to Pat Warner's website (specifically the "Plunge vs Fixed" and "Selecting a Router" link). If you're going to be routing joinery, he makes some interesting points regarding the introduction of error with the addition of certain features. This may help you narrow down your choices.
Best of luck to you with your search.
-brad
Look at the Triton
http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=pd_sl_aw_tops-1_tools_7891142_2/102-6292227-3808924?search-alias=tools&keywords=triton%20router
You should take a look at the Porter Cable 890. It has above the table lock and unlock for the height adjustment, above the table height adjustment, and an arbor lock that engages when the collet is raised for bit changes, so you only need one wrench.
Basically, once the 890 is installed you would never have to touch it again. I'm not sure if this is true of the other routers that have above the table height adjustment, you may still have to reach underneath to unlock the base before you can change the bit height.
John W.
I know I've looked at the PC 890 before, I just don't remember any details. I really do want something that once it's installed, I never have to go below the table again for anything, which is why I really liked the Freud. I might take a run out to Rockler this weekend and get a hands-on look at both of them since Rockler's newest ad lists the Freud, plus it's a very good price.
You sound just like I did back in 2004. I wanted above-board this and that. Fast-forwarding, I bought the Milwaukee 5625 and haven't looked back. It has above board height adjustment, but I chose not to drill a hole in my Veritas router table so I live without it. No problem with that either.
If you're not in a big hurry - and we both know you shouldn't buy like that anyway - you should take a look at Pat Warner's 'The Router Book'. Best money I ever spent for a book. His website is awesome as well. If you have a question, he'll respond in no time. His answers are no-nonsense, but to the point. He's an amazing man in my book. I don't know ANY pro that will take the time he does to help you out.
Take a look at the 3-1/2 HP Milwaukee. I just left a Knots thread where there was some chat about some of these routers having loose shafts. Ask around about that if you can. Take a look at this router, you may be glad you did. Also, IMHO, you should have at least 3HP under the table.
Good luck.
Cephus
Two years ago I inspected router table lifts at a woodworking show. The Woodpeckers lift was best, IMHO, because of the double lift screws. (No cocking.) I combined this with their under-table router enclosure. It has been a dream to operate. All bit changes from above. The only under-table access I need is to change router speed if I go to a really large bit. No problem
To speed things up, I insert a hex rod in my drill and really spin the unit up and down - fine tune with the hand crank.
Jerry
Cephus
Take a look at the lee vally Veritas 3/16 steel plate.I have a 625 DeWalt hung under it and NO SAG!! I looked at all the bigger routers.I took 3, yes 3 Porter-cables back. The DeWalt has a large bottom bearing
and handles large panel bits with minimal vibration. I've had this setup
going on 2 years,no complaints,no breakdowns. I also bought the Veritas
router bit jack.You can move the bit 2 inches or .02 with the micrometer
adjustment,rather than twist 100 revolutions to raise 2-2 1/2 inches.This is priced at approximately 80 dollars.
might be worth a look.
Fred
I've already got a DeWalt 625, that's what I took out of my old table. Unfortunately, I went to use it tonight and the plunge is stuck and I don't know why. It was hung under the table for a long time, I pulled it out just before my old table got damaged, but now... it's stuck in the up position and I can't figure out how to fix it. Anyone have any ideas? I don't want to drag it down to the Authorized Service Center if I don't have to.
I would by all means KEEP the DW625 and add a "router razer" to it for above table adjustments, or a crank knob, both available from http://www.eagleamerica.com. Then look into a Jessem router table and fence. Jessems table top is solid Phenolic, And the Fence is to die for. In my opinion Jessem is the "Beemer" of router table equipment. Stay with 3 HP or better router, Variable speed manditory. Happy Routing. BAS
I agree with the woodpeckers and the 7518 router. I built Norm's router table a few years ago and love the setup.
Agree with Tom and the others, a Woodpeckers PRL with a 7518 is super for a dedicated table setup. If only mine was as clean as Tom's is :)
Cephus, add my vote to the crew with the 7518 and the PRL. The lift was actually made for the 7518. It is true that 2 inches up and down takes 64 revolutions, but like the fella with the hex shaft in his drill shows, where there's a will, there's a woodworker. It's really nothin' at all. I paid 280 for the 7518 and got a refurb PRL from Woodpecker for 200. Ain't nothing in this business cheap and I got the payments to prove it. It really is a contusion trying to make this decision, but I haven't regretted my choices yet. That precision really gets nice after a ton of trial and error and error and error, if ya know what I mean. Good luck on your choices and do check out Pat Warners sight.
You can get the PRL in both 32 and 16 tpi now, meaning 2 inches can be had in 32 turns now. Since it hasn't been mentioned yet, I'll add a plug for Woodpeckers in the customer support department as well. I have rarely encountered a company that totally goes over the top the way they do... if you have a problem with any of their products they just replace it no questions asked.
The Woodpecker QuickLift is much like the PRL, but it has a handle you can use to instantly set your rough adjustment (insert handle, turn 90°, lift to correct height, turn 90°, remove handle), then you switch to turning the crank. You can set any height in, literally, ten seconds.
I've had mine for several months and love it. I've got it for the Bosch 1617EVS, but they've now updated the QuickLift to handle more powerful routers.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
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