Replies

1. 
   BG | Dec 13, 2007 01:58am | #1

   ravkrl,
   My personal opinion is you need a router plate for the Triton or any table mounted router...to help spread the weight of the router can help keep the surface as flat as possible for as long as possible. I'd also make sure my router table top was 1 1/4" thick with formica laminate top and bottom. Sounds like overkill, it's not

2. 
   RW | Dec 13, 2007 04:28am | #2

   I was just looking at those today. They do not come with a plate and even though the collet does extend deeper than the base, by the time you get an adequately thick top  for stability, it would not.

   So yes, I'd use a mounting plate. Slick thing on one of them I noticed at least, the 2 1/4" hp one was that the thing came with a handle. I stood there trying to figure out where this long handle would go and its for when the thing is upside down. So you can make adjustments to height while its hanging there.

   Real trucks dont have sparkplugs

1. 
   Jimurock | Dec 13, 2007 05:53am | #3

   There are a couple of recent extensive -- some would say loooong -- discussions re fitting this router into a table.

   Jim

3. 
   Don01 | Dec 13, 2007 10:03am | #4

   If you check out Pat Warner's thoughts on this you might save yourself some grief.
   I bought a Router Workshop tabletop and insert. My 2 old routers worked fine. The Triton - according to Router Workshop need a special insert. The baseplate mounting holes are slightly larger 1/4 -20 and the bolt heads are not flathead.
   Well I don't like proprietary stuff, so my first attempt was to make holes to fit the Triton pattern. This worked but I haven't tried to remount my other routers. The tabletop is 3/4" 13 ply baltic birch.

   Then I remembered Pat Warner commenting that table inserts were not all that great because you can and probably will develop an edge where the 2 pieces meet. You are better of mounting your router on a flat, continuous, smooth surface with no insert. His own table does not use an insert and are 5/8" MDF supported on a frame.
   http://www.patwarner.com/router_table.html
   I went to the hardware store and picked up 4 wood screw threaded studs (headless hanger screws). Put one in each of the 4 base plate bolt holes. I then put a 1/4" drill bit in the router chuck, raised it up and put the router in plunge position. I placed the router in the center of the unused portion of the tabletop, leaned hard on it so the 4 points of the wood screws would mark the table top. I then bored a 1/4" hole through the top, followed by boring out the center with a hole saw. I sized the hole to my largest bit. You can make a good smooth top for any function for the price of a good insert. The Triton comes with its own set of template guides so you could build a table top specifically for that purpose.
   I used a counter sink to finish off the 4 1/4" mounting holes. Get the machine screws with the Robertson (square) socket, not the flat head with a slot. The slotted one have a slightly larger head.

   I have not drilled the hole to use the fine adjust crank yet, but have had no problems at all with the Triton or by not using the insert. You wind it all the way up to engage the collet lock, change the bit and wind it back down. The collet wrench is offset for thicker tables, but then you need a larger opening. The dust/chip collector is very effective also.

   Don

   
   

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   Edited 12/13/2007 2:19 am ET by Don01