Replies

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jul 18, 2007 08:34am | #1

   If you are less than half a bubble off, I wouldn't worry about it.

   If you do have to level it up, pieces of anything harder than wood will do -- laminate, metal flashing, etc.

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

2. 
   THintz | Jul 18, 2007 10:28am | #2

   Congrats on the PM2000! It's a great saw.

   I also have the PM2000 and frankly haven't checked the level because there isn't anything I can do about it, especially with a saw that gets moved around the shop. the PM2000 sits very flat to the floor so if the floor is close, so is the saw.

   I use a long level for setting things like outfeed rollers so they are on the same plane as the saw surface (actually, just a tick below) and that seems to work just fine.

   By the way, see the link below for a very cool accessory Powermatic is coming out with for the PM2000.

   http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/pm2000bnchrvu.html

   Tom Hintz

   Because there is always more to learn!

3. 
   USANigel | Jul 18, 2007 10:49am | #3

   Use pieces of formica under the legs/corners. Bolt it down if you can.

4. 
   Cincinnati | Jul 18, 2007 04:49pm | #4

   How far off-level is the saw?

   I disagree with Nikkiwood's advice because of this: At some point you will need an auxillary support. If that support is lifting the board off the saw surface due to two surfaces being out of plane, you create potentially dangerous situation. I may be reading too much into it, but I think you should provide a bit more specific information so we make a better judgement before providing advice on this issue.

   Greg

   •••••••

   Exo 35:30-35

1. 
   Soetermans | Jul 18, 2007 05:53pm | #5

   The bubble just shows on the other side of the line.  The back of the saw is high.  To further complicate things, the saw rocks left to right as well.  The left front and rear right feet are high.  If I don't put the leveling feet on the extension table down, the saw rocks pretty freely.  To make a long story short I have to level the saw and stabilize it.  I'm also concerned about the fact that, depending on how much I have to shim it to level and stabilize, I may not be able to get the wheels to touch the floor if I should need to move the saw.  Not to mention the fact that every time I move the saw I'll have to go through the exercise of leveling/stabilizing the saw.  It would really be nice to be able to level/stabilize it and know that the wheels will work like they should.

   Edited 7/18/2007 10:54 am ET by Soetermans

1. 
   THintz | Jul 18, 2007 06:10pm | #6

   My shop floor is far from flat but I don't have any rocking problems in all but one spot and there I push one shim under a corner and the PM2000 sits very solid. I wonder if your floor is that our of level if doing something about the floor itself wouldn't be easier. A friend of mine leveled the floor throughout his whole basement in a weekend though I didn't watch that process. I did see the before and after and I was impressed.Tom Hintz

   Because there is always more to learn!

1. 
   Soetermans | Jul 18, 2007 06:47pm | #7

   Floor is flat and level (well, closer than the saw anyway).  I put the level on the floor (checked both directions) and then on the saw.  The floor is flat and level front to back and off a wee bit left to right.  The saw is off a little more left to right, but not too bad.  Front to back, the floor is dead flat, the sw is not.

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jul 18, 2007 07:18pm | #8

   Great.  Sounds like you found the problem.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   Soetermans | Jul 18, 2007 08:17pm | #9

   Yep.  Found the problem.  My original question is what is the best method to correct it.  Wood shims aren't going to cut it.  I need  a good, simple way to solve the problem and still be able to use the built in casters on the saw.  They don't drop down very far so anything I do to lift/level the saw may keep them from working very well.  In fact they really don't get the saw very far off the floor.  It's just barely enough to move it.  My question still stands.  What's the best way to level and stabilize the saw?

2. 
   Cincinnati | Jul 18, 2007 08:20pm | #10

   If your floor is level as you claim, then are you really saying the saw has a problem. I encourage you to start over and check everything out. In post 1 you indicated it's dead on left to right and out of level front to back. In post 6, it rocks left to right and the LF and RR feet are high. Did you move the saw to a different spot on the floor? If you are going to be moving it around, it seems like it would be much easier to level the floor if it is a problem.Another option is to mark the spot on the floor and put it back in the same location each time.I am not familiar with the Powermatic. Are there leveling feet on it? You mention wheels; is there a mobility kit that replaces two of the feet? How many feet are available for contacting the floor? Are they adjustable? How far out of level is the table (Front is 1/4 inch high for example.)?Why aren't shims a possibility?Greg

   <!---->•••••••

   Exo 35:30-35<!---->

1. 
   Soetermans | Jul 19, 2007 12:48am | #11

   The saw does seem have a problem.  The "feet" if you can call them that are not all on the same plane.  When I check the floor it is quite flat.  When I move the saw into place and lower it, the saw rocks a little.  When I checked the level on the saw it was not rocking because the leveling feet on my extension table were touching the floor (basically propping the saw up).  It won't be good for the fence rails if I leave it like that.

   As for the PM2000 saw, there are no leveling feet on it.  It has a cast base that is supposedly flat.  It has integrated casters that can be lowered by using the same wheel that tilts the saw blade (trunion).  Pull the wheel out on the shaft and it works the casters, push it back in and it adjusts the angle of the blade.  It's a great system.  The only complaint I have about it right now is that there are no positive stops on the casters so you can't really tell when they are all the way up or all the way down this may be my problem).  I've spoken to a tech support person at Powermatic and they feel pretty certain that I don't have the casters all the way up.  I'll check that out and see if that is the case (although I don't really think it is).

   I had already planned on marking the floor so if I moved the saw I could get it back in the same spot, but I'm still setting up shop and haven't gotten to that yet.

   As for shims not being a possibility, I guess I should clarify that a little.  Wood shims aren't a possibility.  The saw weighs 500+ pounds.  It would crush them.  Metal shims or some other material would work.  I was asking to see if someone else had rin into a similar problem to get advice or find out what they had used to shim heavy equipment.  The other problem I will run into is that if I have to shim the saw anywhere near 1/16 of an inch to level/stabilize it, then the casters will no longer pick the saw up.  The saw comes off the floor less than 1/16 when the casters are all the way down.  Just enough to roll the saw around on a smooth floor.

1. 
   JohnWW | Jul 19, 2007 01:19am | #12

   The first models of the PM 2000 had a defect in the caster mechanism that created the problems with raising and lowering the saw just as you describe.  Your saw may be an early model or the defect has reappeared.  In either case I would get back to them and complain that the caster mechanism is defective.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine 

2. 
   Soetermans | Jul 19, 2007 01:55pm | #13

   I spoke with powermatic yesterday.  The tech I spoke with was pretty certain that I didn't have the casters all the way up.  I put them back down, moved the saw, swept the area, made sure nothing was stuck to the bottom of the base, repositioned the saw and lowered it into place.  This time I made sure that I turned the handle for 20 seconds or so.  You can turn it all day since there is no positive stop (very annoying).  Anyway, this seemed to do the trick.  The saw no longer rocks and sits solidly on its base.  It is still not level though.  It is close enough though that I think I can level it with some fairly thin metal shims.  Once that is taken care of, I only have two more issues to deal with.

3. 
   t_mauery | Jul 27, 2007 11:31pm | #14

   I got one of the early models you are speaking of.  Has Powermatic suggested any fix or anything?

    

4. 
   JohnWW | Jul 27, 2007 11:43pm | #15

   Powermatic assured us, when we discovered the caster flaw, that they were already aware of the problem and that any saw made after that first batch would be working properly.  They never supplied repair parts and we never tried to figure out what was wrong and how hard it would be to fix.

   It would seem to me that they owe you either a repair or a new saw.

   John W.