Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 12, 2010 06:38pm | #1

   I'm surprised you haven't
   I'm surprised you haven't gotten replies yet. I haven't turned any pens yet, but I do have an extra DVD from Penn State on pen-turning. If you drop me a private message with your mailing address, I'll pop it into the mail (sheesh, assuming I can find it).

   If the deluxe mandrel of which you speak is adjustable, that's the one to get. Penn State has one, as does Lee Valley I think. I've gotta run, but I'll post a link tonight to the one that's been recommended to me.

   If you Google on "introduction to pen turning" you'll find a slew of articles and videos. I've pasted one link below. Also, try the turning forum at sawmillcreek.org -- you'll have a dozen responses soon after you post.

   http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/writing-pens.html

1. 
   sk2tobin | Feb 13, 2010 01:22pm | #4

   Thanks everyone for all of the info. Thanks especially to you forestgirl for the link (it was really good) and for offering the DVD.

   Nick

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 14, 2010 01:05am | #6

   I'm glad the link was helpful
   I'm glad the link was helpful -- it's amazing how much turning educational material is out there, one has but to Google. DVD will go out Monday! Just remember, we expect to see some pics down the road, LOL!!

2. 
   fmarabate | Feb 12, 2010 09:58pm | #2

   Nick,

   You got process correct. It really is pretty easy to do. Of course with anything the more precise you are and the better the finish the more money you can get for them.

   I use the standard mandrel currently, but plan to move to the deluxe when I have the money. I believe there will be less flex in the shaft, which can lead to out-of-round pen tubes.

   The bushings are used to tune the material, wood/acrylic/other, done to the correct size to match with the diameters the pen parts, i.e. pen tip, center ring.

   The shaft comes with the mandrel.

   You can use a vice. I have seen some use their lathe to press the parts together. You just need to becareful that the parts are going together straight.

   No special tools are required.

   Hope this helps.

   Frank

3. 
   flairwoodworks | Feb 12, 2010 10:09pm | #3

   Nick,
   You've gotten good
   Nick,

   You've gotten good advice so far - I will expand a little. Bushings slide onto the mandrel on either side of the pen blank. They are the same diameter as the hardware bits pressed on later and serve as a reference of what size to turn the blanks too. I'm not familiar with the term "shaft" in the pen turning world. A vise works well - I've used one for years. However, you will want wood jaws which do get beat up pressing in metal parts. Metal jaws will damage the pen parts. A drill press or lathe also work. The only reason you might want "special" turning tools is if you wish to turn miniature beads and details.

4. 
   BruceS | Feb 13, 2010 10:55pm | #5

   My favorite tool for turning pens is a 3/8' BOWL gouge with a long side grind.

5. 
   stantheman | Feb 14, 2010 10:48am | #7

   I use a clamp to squeeze the parts together. The kind where you pump the handle and the jaws come together. Drilling the hole accurately through the blanks is the hardest part. You have to have the blank straight and centered. A jig helps.

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Feb 14, 2010 12:59pm | #8

   Stan,

   Do you have any problems getting the transmission inserted the right amount? I've always found squeeze clamps to be rather coarse and I've been afraid of using one because I might overshoot the mark.

6. 
   maybaby | Feb 22, 2010 12:36am | #9

   Nick,

   Welcome to pen turning. Lots of good advice already on mandrals, bushings etc: I find my drill press the best method of having good control over assemblying the parts. I use a wooden plate over the base to prevent damage and a wooden plug in the chuck. As stated a good centered hole in the blank for the brass sleeve is essential. Drill slowly and clear the shavings often. Different types of wood drill different. Don't push the drilling. The bushings are the reference for the hardware. Turn the wood to as close to final as possible and then sand to final fit. A lot of us use a second set of bushings for sanding to prevent scoring our base set with sanding. The transmission is the trickest to set and you have to sneak up on the proper set by inserting the pen refill and twisting the transmission to test the length of the tip sticking out. The mandral is the shaft. High speed (2500 rpm) gives best cut and finish (its basically spindle turning). A little natural finish to bring out the wood grain, some friction polish and wax finish completes the job. Check out pen turning videos on the internet for some good demos. Average time from start to finish when you getr the hang of it is 30 minutes for a finiished product. Mine go from $25 for a simple trimline to $50 for more advanced and exotic woods. Good luck and enjoy its fun and fast.