Replies

1. 
   MHBurton | Mar 13, 2005 05:08pm | #1

      I have used a ROS with 220-320 paper and then laquer thinner to clean off any oil. After that use plain ole' Johnsons Paste Wax in the yellow can. It is cheap and works great. There are also lot of other products out there that work really well but can get expensive. I use it on every equipment surface I have that touches the stock I am working; planer/jointer bads, router bases, etc. It is a great friction reducer as well as rust preventative.

      Be sure not to use automotive waxes, since a lot of them contain silicone, which will give you the fits at finishing time. (Fisheye bigtime!)

   Michael Burton
   ThunderbirdHardwoods
   Kiln Dried Mesquite Lumber  &
   Custom Mesquite Furniture
   Llano, TX

   
   

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   Edited 3/13/2005 10:09 am ET by Mikey

1. 
   JeffHeath | Mar 13, 2005 09:34pm | #4

   Mikey

   Scotchbrite pads are an excellent solution to your problem.  They have different grits, depending on how much rust you have, and they are a lite abrasive, so you don't have to worry about removing too much metal and creating dips in your saw top. 

   All my tools receive a coat of Boeshield, which is a protective coating against rust.  It is available just about everywhere, including Rocker and Woodcraft, or your favorite on line source.  Once a week, a quick wipe down of all my tops with "good ole Johnson's paste wax" keeps them nice and slick for woodworking, and adds a little protection against the rust.

   I have found that without the Boeshield 1st, the paste wax isn't as good against the rust.

   Jeff

2. 
   Timel | Mar 13, 2005 05:43pm | #2

   I moved my shop about 6 months ago and some of the tools got rusty in transit. I agree in principle with what Mikey recommends but would suggest something a little less agressive that 220 if it is just a film of rust. I'd use a 400 grit wet and dry paper with machine oil as a lubricant. I have a dedicated cork block that I use to support the sandpaper. Clean up with kerosene and then use paste wax.

   If there is significant build up of rust then Mikey's suggestion is good though I'd hesitate about the ROS.

   Good luck

   Tim

   Tim Lawson
   Soon-to-be furniture maker
   Port Townsend, WA
3. 
   ChipTam | Mar 13, 2005 06:16pm | #3

   I bought a new Delta DJ-20 jointer about 5 years ago.  Don't know why but that piece of iron seems to rust more quickly than any of my other machines.  Most of the other machines are much older dating from around 1965 to 1980.  In any case, the methods for removing the rust already described will work fine.  I wouldn't be too worried about automotive waxes.  I have an old can of original formular Simonize that I've been using forever without any bad results.

   Chip

    

4. 
   BarryO | Mar 13, 2005 09:41pm | #5

   here in the humid NW, I've found that Boeshield is the only thing that does any real good.  That, and I keep one of those breathable covers over the saw when not in use.

1. 
   FCB | Mar 14, 2005 03:32pm | #6

   thanks to everone for their responses