Hi all!
Just yesterday I got my new 831LA Unisaw (with a Biesemeyer fence) into the basement as an upgrade from my Ryobi 3100. It is patiently waiting for a 230 line and further assembly…
Been spending this Sunday AM researching the best safety accessories and I am swimming in a world of confusion. Board Buddies, Biesemeyer Splitter, MJ Splitter, Grr-Ripper, Featherboards, blade guards, etc.
I am looking to hear what others suggest I might consider implementing. What options are you using and why?
Thanks!
Adam Aronson
Red Hook, NY
Replies
For me, the best tablesaw safety has come from items that assure proper material positioning as it passes through the saw, and those that help keep my hands away from the blade.
These include featherboards, pushsticks, a splitter (when practical), and a tall (probably 12") fence for most of what I do. When I built the fence add-on, I put some T-track in it, so that I can have vertical featherboards as well as the horizontal ones that get clamped to the table.
I've thought about the board buddies, but I'm not convinced that they can be used for thinner cuts. I've also thought about the magnetic "featherboards", but doubt their ability to be as effective in the vertical plane as a 'real' featherboard.
The tall fence also helps to remind me of those times when pushsticks are needed -- its a lot more awkward reaching over a tall fence when space is limited. Oh, and it helps a lot when putting a groove in the edge of a board (like for spline joints).
And never forget that the best safety device is the one you'll use consistently and effectively.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
Hi,
There is one product that I find priceless, the GrRipper. Bought two and use them one behind the other when ripping.
http://www.microjig.com/
The other that was well worth the money is a fence addition. See the link. The slots on the top make for easy placing of various attachments and the plastic is great for minimal friction.
http://www.ttrackusa.com/index.html
oops, I just reread and saw that you have a Bies fence. Sorry. Do go for the GrrrRipper though. Worth its weight in gold safety wise. Check out their video.
Cheers,
Peter
Peter,
I do have a Unifence and was not aware of the TTrack. Many thanks for sharing the link!
-Jerry
Congratulations on the new toy. For me, I use an overarm gaurd with the micro jig splitter. I also purchased the Grippr and the griptite magnetic feater board. I have a host of push sticks and other things, but I tend to use the two grippr's the most. Opps almost forgot to mention the safty glasses and ear muffs for hearing. That's it for me. I don't see one as the be all, more I treat safety as a process that requires a lot of components. I'm still hoping that sawstop will come out with a retrofit kit for my Grizzly 1023slx some day.
Thanks to everyone who responded!So, it seems that the GRR-Ripper is suggested. I'll look into picking one up.As for splitters... Any recommendations? Is the Biesemeyer worth the $140 or should I go riving knife-less and get the MJ Splitter(s)? Or, is there another option I am not considering...?Thanks again for all the patience and responses!Adam
Pick up two, they are GRR-eat. I also use them on the router table and shapers.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
Get two of the Grippr's if you can they are very nice. I use a hand over hand method to push stock through and keep the hands away from the blade. It works really nice. Keeps the stock firmly down, and against the fence. I looked at the Bess splitter, but ended up taking a chance on the MJ splitter and was not dissapointed. Don't get me wrong, the bess looked nice, but I liked the adjustable pressure you can use with the MJ. It can eaither apply pressure fence side or waste side of th blade. There is one downside to the MJ. It is only good in the verticle blade position. Since it's mounted into the blade ZC insert, you cannot tilt the blade. No problem, for me for the very few angled cuts I make, I just pop it out. Seondly, my forrest blades are the thin ones, so the Bess would not work for me. Finally, the MJ was only 20 bucks. I think you will be happy with either. The important thing is you are going to use something! Take care.
Motorized stock feeders. Experience the inherent safety in letting a machine do what your hands used to.
If you're going to automate with machinery then you might as well go all the way.
Edited 11/6/2006 2:10 pm ET by VeriestTyro
For me, a quick release splitter is #1 and an overhead gaurd is a close second. I have the Unigaurd set made by delta. I think that there are better overhead gaurds on the market (Excalibur) but the splitter made by Delta is very good. It comes out easily and realigns perfect every time. The Unigaurd allows you to remount the switch on the boom arm so that the off button is right in front of you. It took me a few projects to get used to the switch not being under the table, but it is obviously better placed where it is a foot from your hands in most cases.
As others mentioned use you brain. Never make a cut that you are doubtfull are afraid to make. Do it the right way. Don't cut rough lumber on the saw, joint at least one side, two is better. And dont use dull blades.
Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
Having the switch up above the table is one of the most dangerous places to have it.
Put it below & under the left table wing just far enough under to put a board on a hinge over it with a hole through it to push the start button through when shutting off the saw in an emergency you just bump the board & keep both hands on the material on top of the saw for full control.Good, better, best never let it rest until your good is better & your better best.
That is a great location if you are ripping wider boards and stand to the left of the work piece. Unfortunately that is the only time it is convinient. You cant argue that your hands are almost all ways above the table and within 18" of the blade. Well my switch is about 14" above that at all times. Before you can shift your wieght to lift your knee (standing on one foot by the way) I have already hit the switch. How do you get to the switch when you are cutting a large piece of plywood and the work piece is hanging 4 feet over the front of the saw and completely preventing your acess to the Giant switch? Do you duck under the plywood? That is what I used to do.
Adding the large paddle is a great idea. It allows you to easily hit the off switch with a knee or wild slap of the hand. And it may well be that for your purposes it is better, but to make a blanket statement that an above the table switch is better is a very narrow view.
In my experience when things really go wrong we tend to not hit the kill switch at all. "Bad things" tend to happen faster than anyone could ever hit a switch so we tend to just get out of the way. It becomes sort of an instinctual thing at that point. But I have on numerous occasions done things like not removing the splitter before making a non-through cut (dado or groove with a normal blade), or start ripping a sheet of ply and realizing that there is something in the way behind the saw. Well in those instances I am definately able to get to the above table switch quicker than the below table set up. Again, the below table switch is not accesible at all; unless you duck under the ply wood.
Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
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