Replies

1. 
   roc | Apr 29, 2012 03:19pm | #1

   The simplest solution just put another top on top of this top

   I will throw out some things that came to mind.  Hopefully the more eccentric ideas won't draw too much flame.  I like to involve as many tools as possible because I like to futz around with my tools so I may as well say that up front to save some body else the bother of doing it.

   Keep these in mind too

   http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/set3hollowscrewextractors.aspx

   I am not sure if you can bring up these links where you are.  This is a link to a tiny hollow "hole saw" for removing the wood from around a screw so it can be removed and the wood plugged.  This way you might be able to free the top from the base then pull the nails out of the softer wood.  See further down in my post for removing the nail head.

   I would support the table with longer uprights than the legs.  Tall saw horses ?

   (depending on your mental make up you may want to substitute hydraulic car jack for sledge bellow and forget the saw horses)

   Use a small sledge on a large timber across the stretchers  and clamped to the up rights of the pine undercarriage.  Get in there with your weight on the base and whale away on the added timber(s) to pull the nails out of the pine enough to get pry tools

   http://www.amazon.com/Hyde-Manufacturing-45600-9-1-Scraper/dp/B00002N6G8/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1335723543&sr=8-16

   then wedges between.  Then once the top is free of the legs drive the nails back up and pull them out using one of these

   http://www.amazon.com/JEFFERSON-TOOL-HL-1121-Extractor-Remover/dp/B00461AFY0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1335721572&sr=8-3

   Probably could rent one.  Mine is old school and looks like huge flush cutting pincers like these but even larger

   http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-148-14-13-75-Inch-Cutting-Nipper/dp/B000189GRO/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

   How big are these nails ?

   Are they into the end grain of the uprights or are there stretchers at the top as well ?

   Hitting the center of a nail shank by center punching the head is iffy.  The heads may not be on the same exact axis as the shank.

   Probably need a drill press to keep it on center if you lucked out.

   Very sharp accurately sharpened bit as well. ( just because a bit is new does not mean it is well or accurately sharpened ).

   Then as you go through the head into the nail shank the nail head will begin to spin when it comes loose from the shank.  So it will no longer help keep your bit on track for drilling out the shank.

   An end mill bit may be the best bet if you are going to cut the nail out using a metal cutting bit because it is flat on the end and so won't tend to slip off the nail and be deflected to the side.

   Careful !  Doesn't take as much downward force and easy to chip the milling bit.

   http://www.amazon.com/4Fl-SE-Carbide-End-Mill/dp/B000I6MPKO/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_c

   You could cut the heads off the nails using your stated modus operandi and then drive the nails further in using a very stout nail set. And the sledge.  MAYBE.

   Then plug.

   The important thing is to work the sledge into the equation as often as possilbe.

   All the while hollering I AM THOR !

   God of storms, and oak trees, protector of mankind, master of healing and fertility. 

   Or maybe that is just me.

   Good luck.

2. 
   hammer1 | Apr 29, 2012 04:35pm | #2

   Sounds like the top is just face nailed into the tops of the legs? You can use a slim pry bar or drive in a wood shingle to open a slight gap between the legs and top, then use a hacksaw/Sawzall blade in the crack to cut off the nails and free the top.

1. 
   roc | Apr 29, 2012 05:12pm | #3

   Wondering if David is planning on planing the top.

    >I am seeking advice on removing them from the top<

   >Sawzall blade<

   The nails are still in the top at this point.

1. 
   hammer1 | Apr 30, 2012 09:37am | #6

   Once the top is freed by cutting off the nails, it's a simple matter to remove the remaining nail parts by driving them back out with a punch. I didn't think the OP needed such no brainer advice on that. It doesn't take much to cut off a nail or 10 unless they are hardened. Wrap an end of a hacksaw blade with some tape and wear a glove, you only need an 1/8" crack in one spot to start. The next spot will pry open more easily after the first nail is cut. Beating with a big hammer is what they do on TV, those of us that need to save pieces and not destroy them take a more judicious approach.

3. 
   dherbert | Apr 29, 2012 08:13pm | #4

   Good ideas

   I think the simplest method might work best IE beat on the bottoms with a sledge. The nails, I believe, are about 1/4" thick, and the top boards are nailed into stretchers. I am awaiting back surgery at present, so I have time to think this over. Wood is cheap here,I bought some 8/4 Argentine Ebony 10" wide X 10 feet long for $25, but tools are expensive and availability is rare.

1. 
   roc | Apr 30, 2012 05:31am | #5

   1/4 " shanks ? ! Oh My Gosh

   Nailed into the cross grain of the stretchers.

   I was afraid of that.

   I am beginning to wonder if this bench was nailed together while the wood was way less than dry.

   Aaaahhhhdn"O man.  You may just destroy it trying to take it apart.  I thought if the nails were nails not SPIKES, and were into the end grain of the uprights you might have a good time of it.

   Now I am thinking belt sand it flat and use it or belt sand it flat and put a top on it you can plane flat since wood is cheep.

   WHY DO YOU WANT TO TAKE THIS TOP OFF, OR DRILL THESE NAILS OUT, PLEASE ?

4. 
   dherbert | Apr 30, 2012 10:51am | #7

   Removing nails

   I just want to have no metal in my tabletop to safeguard my cutting tools.Actually, there are not that many, if I pay a modest amount of attention to what I am doing, they should not prove to be a problem.Also, a plywood top would solve my problem as well, but I would like to apply the top to a level surface.In addition,the boards are glued + being nailed with large nails~ 1/4" dia.X5" long, I guess these verge on being spikes. All wood was dry when assembled. I can buy a set of plug cutters here, perhaps removing a plug from around the nail and cutting the nail off as deep as I can will enable me to plane the top sufficiently level to affix another top. Thanks for the advice,whenever you have a chance to talk something over with others, a workable solution generally arises. The fellow that built this for me made a drawing that followed my specifications, then ignored his own drawing, so the dimensions are not ideal,but I can live with them. The language problem just adds confusion. The bench is 30" deepX 9' long X 41" high, if it proves to be too tall,Iplan to build a platform to stand on. I have a Rockler heavy duty vise on the left end, and tentatively plan to put a leg vise on the other. Down here, instead of complicated arrangments at the bottom of the leg to keep the chop parrallel,they just use an appropriately sized block of wood. Thanks for all the ideas, eventually I will post some pics, which I should have done to start with.

5. 
   roc | Apr 30, 2012 10:09pm | #8

   I think there is an echo in this room

   I am hearing some things I said coming back around.

   :   )

   Maybe a little weaker though.

   David,

   A custom made work bench that wasn't.  Funny size, too tall etc. . . .

   I would have him come get it and get my money back.

   Then build a bench that works for you.  Sans nails please.

   PS:  a serious woodworker dude ( or dudet ) has got to do what a seriious woodworker dude ( or dudet ) has got to do.

   We can't always please every one and be loved by all.

   I think.