Newbie needs a table saw and advice…
Buzzsaw
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
Hi All,
I was told to post my question to this forum by others who know. I need a table saw and I am a newbie to woodworking. I was thinking of possibly buying a used table saw so that I could get a decent machine for a small amount of money. Any suggestions would be very helpful to me on whether I should buy new or used. I am not interested in spending BIG money.
Regards,
Buzzsaw
Replies
Welcome Buzzsaw...
What kind and size of materials do you suppose you'll be working with?
How much space do you have to dedicate to the TS. Do have all the electricty availible that you could desire for the TS. Then there is the budjet.
Do you you desire a full cabinate type, contractor or portable style??
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Imerc has some good questions, another is
Some of the cheaper saws put out a high decible level. You'll need to think about your hearing with say an induction motor verses a belt drive. Do you have small children about that little ears may get hurt. My old 8 1/4" job site Makita for instance is very loud, very loud.
My problem is I don't have a lot of room to work with. The room itself is maybe 12X16 and, to be honest, I don't know the difference in the type of table saws to tell you.
Regards,
Buzzsaw
(P.S. the nickname has nothing to do with wwdworking)
Okay.. So go here, this is good place for a start and an education. click on this link and cruise..
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/browse/-/552962/ref=hi_hp_ct_3_13/002-5524899-9978424
Hang on to your wallet. I have the full blown cabinet and portable...
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
I would agree people telling you to take a look around in the used arena. You'd be surprised at what you'll come across in the want ads or the Thrifty Nickle sometimes. Back in June I saw a little add in the weekly paper saying "two tablesaws for sale" with no details, so I went out expecting to maybe find a Contractors saw that would be sufficient for me, and instead I found a complete 3 horse 220 V Unisaw from 1989, with a 52" Beisemeyer on it for only $700. It was a steal for me considering i was just about to pay $800 for a new Delta Contractor's saw at the local woodworking shop.
Now that beauty takes up a large portion of my 12x20 1 car garage but it is definately worth it. I added a large outfeed table (4ft x 3ft) and I know that while I have had to sacrafice alot of space for it, I'll be moving eventually and that saw will be with me for the duration of my life (or until they pry it from my cold dead hands).
JD
the subject of table saws is contraversal. It seems to be the first real woodworking tool most get but if you talk to many woodworkers, it turns out that it's not as important as some would think..
While you can do a lot with it, (if you make the needed jigs and attachments) most of what a table saw does can be done better by another power tool..
for example,
if you want to cut a straight line, you will quickly find out that a Skil saw( circular saw) with a straight edge can do just as nice of a job.. will the cut be perfect? no. probably not.. but then a cut with a table saw doesn't always come out perfect..
that's one of the reasons they make jointers..
Several memembers recommend a band saw as more important than a table saw and I'm one of them.. while you can cut reasonably straight line with a bandsaw, experiance and a properly set fence help. You can also cut curves and make veneers etc. In addition you won't be limited to working on the flat of boards. try to cut a 8x8 in half with a table saw.. can't be done short of a very expensive and large saw. yet a bandsaw can do it in one pass.
I'm tool addict.. (and a wood addict but that's another story) I bought first a bench top and then a contractors and finally a 12 inch tables saw.. It's brand new and over a year old and I have yet to find a use for it.. Mind you I'm building my house and going thru tens of thousands of boardfeet of hardwoods like walnut and oak.
But I'll take that all back if your intention is to just make little boxes and knick- knacks.
tablesaws are oprobably good for that.
Hey Buzzsaw,
Welcome. There's a lot of folks that can help here.
Based on your reply. Let's start here. How much do you want to spend? That will narrow the field down.
For example. If you only want to spend $100 then your talking about maybe a circular saw and a guide. (New) or a long or lucky hunt for a used contractor machine.
So give us an idea.
Enjoy,
Len
Hi Buzz, glad to see you made it over here! As you can see, we like lots of data before sticking our collective necks out on a recommendation, LOL. I'll start with an outline of the types of saws, and some pitfalls to avoid.
It can take time to find a contractor's saw used, other than Craftsman, of which there are many. Lots of people have done OK with Craftsman saws, but generally IMO they're not as good as brands such as Delta, Jet, General, etc.
Let us know what your budget is!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 10/21/2003 11:51:32 AM ET by forestgirl
Whatever your choice, one of the first places I would look is used.
I got a line on some used equipment and they are half the price, equal or better quality than what you can buy new today, and fun to restore.
For example, I snatched up a 1949 DeWalt 12" Radial Arm saw last year, for a measley $400. It is 240 volt, 3 horse power, and equivalent to a $2,000 saw you can buy today. The current crop of DeWalts are all c r a p, and the only real comparison is an $1,800 Delta or a $2,300 "Original Saw Commpany" Radial Arm.
Ask at a local tool center, not a Home Depot, for guys that want to sell equipment, check the paper for cabinet shop auctions, and of course ebay.
As for your choice, I would select a used Delta Cabinet saw. The same guy that I bought my stuff from had an old, 1950's era Delta, 2 horse, 120 volt, cabinet saw in beautifull condition for about $600.
Do some looking around, and post the make model, and price and we'll let you know what we think. We're never short on opinions.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Buzzsaw,
To me, repeatability is really important for the pieces I do. Thats why I think you need a tablesaw that can help turn out [reasonably] consistent dimensions. (That's also why I don't think the circular saw is a long-term good idea, but a fine idea for someone that has an infrequent need.) Having said that, in the end, what it has come down to for me is: you need a great fence that stays put, a very good blade, a motor that can handle 8/4 hardwood (which seems to be the edge of the contractor saws) and plans for a collection of jigs.
I bought a contractor saw and now I find myself wishing I had went with a good cabinet saw instead. The reason, I became serious about the hobby. I get mad as hell at myself every time I buy a tool and I focus too much on cost an not enough on quality. I also have a bandsaw and use it frequently but can not remember the last time I did not use my tablesaw on a project.
So, what I'm trying to say is: my opinion is you need a tablesaw and you ought to get a good one if you intent to do woodworking.
With respect to a used saw, I think its a fine idea, blades and even motors can be replaced. If I were going for a used saw, it would be a cabinet saw. I can't imagine myself getting a used contractor saw.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff for the input. Actually my Dad has an old table saw that he gave to my brother. I'm not sure of the make, etc but it still works. I may get my hands on that and use that for a while until I understand what I really need. Thanks for the advice.
Regards,
Buzzsaw
Borrowing your brother's is a great idea. May I suggest picking up one of the excellent tablesaw "how-to and safety" books also? Kelley Mehler's comes to mind, but I know there are two or three other reliable authors also.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I agree, borrowing a saw is a great idea. Good luck.
Buzzsaw: Why screw around? Just go out and buy a new Powermatic 66. You're gonna want one in about 3 weeks anyway...
:-)
Robbie
Heh! FWIW, the 'buy used' theory really only works if you are a) very patient, b) live in a relatively populated area, c) have a friend that knows what to look for to come along and help make sure you don't get suckered, or some combination of the above. I live in North Central Washington, which isn't urban by any stretch of the imagination, but it isn't exactly the end of the earth (which is where I grew up). After watching for a year plus, I've seen a couple beater Craftsman saws for sale from time to time, but the only 'nice' saw I've seen for sale w/i an hour drive or more is just now in the paper, a 5hp 220v PM66 for a grand. So be prepared to wait for a while if you are going the used route.
Monte
Robbie,
Being a novice what does a Powermatic 66 cost?
Buzzsaw
(stepping in for Robbie): somewhere around $2100.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Of course, Buzzsaw, you can do what I did: chicken out and buy an X-5 Left-tilt Unisaw. Got mine for $1650, but Delta gave me a PC 690 router and the dealer gave me a mobile base and a Delta mortiser -- a deal that I could not pass up.
By the way, you may find good used equipment. When selling my Delta contractor saw (with a 38" Biesemeyer and an HTC base) I sold it for $500. It was in sterling shape.
Surprised we don't see more selling activity on this site, honestly.
Robbie
I can answer that,
I had a Delta contractors saw that I advertized well and priced it fair.
No action, I dropped the price from $500 to $300 and got evan less interest.. in the end I gave it away..
9 months of trying to sell something for a third of it's origanal cost that was only a couple of years old..
If I figured out how much time I spent trying to rid myself of that turkey evan if I'd gotten $500 dollars for it it wouldn't have been worth the hassle..
Wow Frenchy... Did you try e-bay? It is ridiculous what some things sell for on that service. Delta Contractor's saws routinely go for 300 to 500 from what I've seen.
Bob
I am glad to see I am not the only one to have a bad experience with a Delta Contractors saw. I have a small cabinet shop and have been in business for over 25 years. Most of that time I used a Sears Table Saw. I always wanted a professional saw. I few years ago I broke a part to the saw and faced with the choice of waiting a week to get it fixed I opted to spend $900.00 on a delta contractors saw that I picked up at locally and gave away the Sears Saw. Boy, now I wish I have my Sears Table Saw back instead of the piece of crap delta. If I have to get a saw again it will be a Powermatic 66. No more Delta anyting for me.
Thats my story and I am sticking to it.
Tom
What was your problem with the Delta?
I had mine over 12 years, and other than just wearing the thing out (Trunions in need of constant adjustment), I loved mine.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Hey, I gave my ol Rockwell 10" TS to my son almost a year ago. Any you know what? I really enjoy the space I have regained in my shop.
I use my bandsaw for almost everything I do now. (I realize that what I do now is highly specialized)
Would you believe that I just put a 500 sq ft addition onto my house using only my Porter Cable circular saw and my bandsaw for cutting wood? Never once did I yearn for the TS. Sure was hard though holding the bandsaw perpendicular to make those molding miter cuts!!! (no, I used a hand miter saw for those)
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Mike
My first table-saw was a Shop-mate circular saw mounted under a piece of 2' x 4' ply in 1972. Cut a rectangular hole for the blade to come through and had a piece of polished oak for a fence. Duct taped the trigger and plugging it in and out was the cut-off switch. If you needed to go mobile, you un-screwed it from below and went out and built a deck. Replace when finished. Designed and built about 9 pieces on it before I got a contractors saw in 1975.
The Shopmate still runs and is sitting on a shelf in the shop. If I need it, it's sitting ready. I still have my first Craftsman mitre box and hand-saw also. Very accurate. It's ready also if the power goes out. ha..ha..
sarge..jt
Hey Sarge -
When I lived in Tulsa I did contract cabinet work for an architectural firm that was constructing small office buildings. Rather than port my 10" contractors saw to the job site, i did as u did!
I had a half sheet of plywood screwed to a couple of saw horses and my PC circular saw mounted underneath and a convenient on/off switch. Had a miter slot routed in the plywood. Edge guide was a straight 2x4 c-clamped at the front and back.
Hey, that contraption saved my butt and made cuts just as good as did my 10" Rockwell.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Mike
I'm getting old. I forgot about the mitre slot. I did the same as you. Amazing how accurate you can be with those things. I built a high-boy with that thing in early 73'. My first wife loved period furniture. Had to get rid of her and find someone that liked country furniture to match my skills. ha..ha..
I installed a hollow ground plane blade for smooth cuts. Carbide tips were strickly industrial back then. If you mentioned hollow ground planer now, most would say, "huh".. :>)
Have a good evening Mike...
sarge..jt
Nobody really talk about left or right tilt blade. I prefer left tilt myself
PJE
Buzzsaw, I went through the same thing starting about a year ago. I'm an amateur woodworker and had gotten to the point that my projects were being limited by not having a tablesaw. I searched eBay and classified ads religiously and never could get a used saw that fit my criteria. Finally someone on this board (Forestgirl maybe?) posted a message regarding the Ryobi BT3100 and a link to this site:
http://www.bt3central.com
Several days of reading posts on that board and I was convinced. Bought the saw and haven't looked back. If woodworking becomes more than a hobby for me, I may buy a higher-end saw, but for now this one has everthing I need and I didn't break my bank account.
Funny you should mention that...Tuesday night I was browsing HD on my way to the chainsaw section, and noticed the Ryobi that comes on a portable stand. Direct drive, 15 amp, but a very nice set-up nonetheless -- extra crosscutting capacity and outfeed support, nice little roll-around stand. Seen here on the Ryobi site.
EEEEEEEEK! Here come my clamps! FedEx!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
That's probably a good saw for a contractor but for anothe $100 or so you can get a belt drive and, from what I understand, a much more accurate saw (with a great support network online).
If my arbor flange didn't have runout, I may have kept my Delta Contractor's saw and bought a jointer instead. That is a great saw for the Newbie, I think... particularly if you can find one with a decent Unifence or Biesemeyer. Keep looking at e-bay and Lowe's.
I agree, and personally did hold out for a belt-drive machine. No knowledge, though, of Buzzsaw's budget, so giving a nod to the Ryobi at the low end.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
The BT3100 - like the BT3000 before it - is a belt-drive machine. Two belts, actually, though they're small.
That means that (a) you can cut a 4x4 in one pass, and (b) if you stop the blade, the $7 belts rather than the much more expensive motor suffer.
Definitely a saw that requires some upkeep, but it's done very well for me. (The 4x4 aspect's been really useful, much to my surprise.)
Yes, the BT3100 and BT3000 are belt-driven. The saw mentioned in my post above (in response to someone else, can't remember who) is the BTS20, which is a reasonably-configured direct-drive saw. Again, not a saw I would choose unless the budget absolutely demanded it, but if indeed that was the max amount of money available, it would be high on the list.
[edit: typos]
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 10/25/2003 11:18:03 AM ET by forestgirl
Ah - sorry. The post right above yours was on the BT3100, so I guess I just followed from there.
I'd have a hard time recommending the BTS20, I'm afraid, but in the low-low-low price range, it probably is a reasonable contender.
Thanks for the info. I'll check out the site...
Regards,
Buzzsaw
Hi Buzzsaw-
I am new to this forum, but not too new to woodworking.
Buying a TS is similar to buying either a Ford or a Chevy. Every owner has a bias on their brand. I highly favor the Ryobi BT3000 (now the BT3100). This saw sells at Home Depot for around $300, It is considered a bench top, but please don't let that full you. This machine features a sliding miter top, 15 amps of power, outstanding dust removal even without a vac. The closes comparable is the new JET for about $1,500 that got so so reviews in Fine Woodworking. I am able to cut a full 42" off the blade. When the blade is new, I am able to glue up without using the jointer. This meets my needs and more. Check out the Ryobi tool forum at ryobitools.com
Buzzsaw, Watch your digits and may all your cuts be straight!
Tommy Boy
P.S. When I first started woodworking, I told my wife that I needed $500 for all of the tools I needed. Now about $8,000 later, I think I told a lie :-)
Buzz
If you don't want to spend big money, the Ryobi BT3100 is actually a pretty good saw. If you want to play with it a little, it can be a great saw for a begginer. High capacity depth of cut, 2 belt drive and 15 amp motor. Sliding table (which you will find very useful), two point lock fence and a price of $300 or under new.
I'm a beginner also ( I began about 31 years ago.. ha..ha..) and I have one I picked up for $125 in a yard sale that was pretty much junked by the owner. He builds outside furniture and he ran it about 5 hours a day for 3 years. He's not too easy on saws as he uses a lot of pressure treat. He's a neighbor, BTW.
I enjoy mine and Norm from Fujini (Japan) loves his also. You might be surprised what you can do with the saw. I modified mine a tad ( 2 HP, 3 belt drive, beefed slider, crown gaurd, riving knife and a small shop refrigerator in the bottom.. ha..ha..).
You will get ribbed by others though. Don't let that bother you though, for the money it's a lot of bang for the buck. You can have a look at mine. Pic to follow...
Good luck...
sarge..jt
That's a really nice set up. I especially like the safety picture, and how you've creatively resused the miter fence slot on the sliding table for extra support at the fence.
One question - what's the big black thing with the knobs on the fence?
Simon
"What's the big black thing with the knobs on the fence"?
I'm not sure, but it looks impressive doesn't it? :>) Simon, that is known as a European "short fence". Mine is home-made and fits over the stock "long fence" as your used to. It's made of MDF with phonelic lamanited to the outside to avoid warp. The knobs on top attach it to a T-slot groove in the top of the Ryobi reg. fence. It can be adjusted front to rear and completly removed in about 30 seconds. I use it for all ripping except when sizing large panels.
This may take a minute but, I was en-lightened to the "short fence" by Sgain Dubh (Richard Jones) who post here. He is an English trained professional furniture maker and has just recently moved back to England to teach. These short fences are commom in Europe and for a purpose. Safety....
Clear your mind and I will explain it's purpose. When you rip stock, look closely at what happens with the relationship between the blade teeth, fence and the stock. Notice that the first 4 or 5 downward moving teeth cut the stock, the upper rear rising teeth are just getting to the front where they take thier turn. The tail end of the stock is completly cut when it clears those front teeth. The Danger in Kickback comes mainly from those rear rising teeth. On a long fence we usually push the stock all the way through. On a long fence the stock that has already been cut rides against the fence. If the stock spreads from the release of stress, it has nowhere to go but against the fence on the right side. If it spreads far enough the fence forces it back toward the blade causing pinch. Those rear rising teeth catch the already cut stock and all h*ll breaks loose. Kickback...
With a "short fence" once the already cut stock passes the front cutting teeth, it has clearance to the right. The stock can spread all it wants or move right from an akward, un-intentional loss of control from the operator as the short fence only goes to about 1/2" of the front center of the blade. This provides a "free zone" instead of a "danger zone"from that point forward.
This along with a riving knife (or splitter, as all U.S. saws are not adapted for a riving knive) and crown gaurd greatly reduce the chance and effect of kick-back. A riving knife is like a splitter except it is not attached stationary to the back or inside the arbor housing. It attaches directly to the arbor mechanism itself allowing the front edge of the knife to stay within 1/8" of the blade. It moves up and down with the blade and tilts right or left with it. Still 1/8" from the blade. A crown gaurd sits bolted on top. If kickback were to occur, the crown (top-hat) keeps the stock from flying up and away. With the "lane clear" (operator stance directly in front or rear of the blade) chances of injury are greatly reduced. I did say greatly reduced, not totally eliminated. Operator attention, proper set-up and keeping the "lane clear" is highly important. The user is the biggest "safety factor" with any piece of machinery.
Will attach crown gaurd and riving knife pics so you can get "the picture" so to speak. ha..ha..
Any questions.... bring them on...
sarge..jt
Edited 10/26/2003 1:31:04 PM ET by SARGE
Very nice! I'll have to try the short fence for ripping. I've only had one kickback but that was enough. (No harm done, fortunately.)
I take it the BT3000's approach to the splitter makes the riving knife aspect easier - just put it in between the shims and it'll stay with the blade.
Simon
You can clamp a face plate to your current fence if you would like to try it. That will work. The face plate should end about 1/2" before dead center blade. Look at your stock when ripping and see where the acutal cut is completed. Go just beyond that point with the trailing end of the fence. Make the face plate an even figure thickness. Say 1". That way instead of having to add a new mesuring tape to the rail add 1". Keep in mind the thickness will throw off the current rail measurements. If you want to rip 2 1/2", set to 3 1/2" to compensate for the 1" thick faceplate added.
At first it will seem ackward. Stay alert and keep practicing. I ran almost 150 rips with scraps through before I felt comfortable. At that point, I wouldn't do it any other way with the exception of the larger panels.
The Ryobi BT3100 comes with a riving knife that is attached similar to a Euro saw on the arbor mechanism. All you have to do to the knife is drill proper holes and attach a crown gaurd to it.
sarge..jt
Sarge,
I checked out the Ryobi BT3100 over the weekend at Home Depot. It was going for $299. It appeared to be basic but should give me what I need for reasonable money. I am going to look into it a bit more but, I agree, for a novice especially, this may be the way to go. Thanks for the pictures and the post.
Regards,
Buzzsaw
Buzzsaw,
I don't think you can go wrong with the Ryobi. I owned one for 5 years and then my dad kidnapped it. When I finally settled down and bought a house he bought me a new one. Had that one for 6 years. I moved up to a Grizzley 1023, last year. Now, I'm building all the accesories that I originally just bought for the Ryobi.
I had no complaints about the Ryobi other than it was a bit loud. But you should be wearing hearing protection, anyway. Mine was set up similar to Sarge's but I had to break it down so I could park the car in the garage.
Good luck,
Len
Buzzsaw,
My 2cents. The portable motorized table saws are fine for occasional use with small projects. Don't expect to rip 2x10 oak planks or cut full sheets of cabinet grade plywood. The contractors type saws will handle these materials and add accuracy as well as offer the use of accessories as someone else mentioned. Of the various models available my vote is Rockwell or Delta. The 1 1/2hp motor can be wired 220 and will give the closest performance to a cabinet saw. A friend recently bought a Powermatic contractor saw. The table tops and the gold paint were beautiful but there was trouble with the motor mount and the belt guard simply did not fit. He complained and received a Jet cabinet saw as a free replacement! As far as used vs new, better know what you're getting with used.
If you intend to build small projects with softwoods such as bird houses, shelves, etc. a portable may be all you need. If you want to build furniture and do more exacting work go with a contractor saw. And learn how to use it correctly. One great old source-
Cabinetmaking and Millwork-John L. Feirer- Library of Congress # 67-10060.
Hammer
Five years ago I would have agreed with everything you said and still do to a degree. But, a few surprises have altered that opinion to some degree. I have no intention to argue and that is not the purpose I am posting. Just thought I might enlighten you an others to one of the surprises I discovered.
You stated that "do not expect to cut 2' x 10' oak or full panels with a portable." Can you cut these on your contractor saw without built-on extentions? I couldn't as I used contractor saws for 26 years.
"If you intend to build small projects with soft-woods such as bird houses, shelves, etc. a portable may be all you need." "If you intend to build furniture and do more exacting work, go with a contractor".
I am posting a picture of a project I just completed. It has 3 1/4' maple top and the legs and stretchers are also 3 1/4". All cut to size with a TS. (Depth of cut) When assembled the entire project was .007 out-of-square, easily corrected with a low angle block plane. (Exactness) It's not a bird-house and it's not soft-wood. It's not perfect by any means. It's just the best this old man could do with his portable TS.
I completed a 50' custom parts counter for my part-time work back in Jan. I would love to post a pic to demonstrate panels can be cut also, but don't have any. Can get them though.
I agree with most of your post. But, you might put an asterisk * by it when you say it next. There is a portable out there that I wouldn't trade for any contractor saw on the market. A cabinet saw, that's a different story. ha..ha..
Have a great day...
sarge..jt
Edited 10/27/2003 2:11:45 PM ET by SARGE
Sarge,
Fantastic bench. That would inspire me to make something even if all I owned was a broken Swiss army knife! My comments on saws were not to mean you can't. Only what would be prudently appropriate. I started with a pair of saw horses and a skill saw.
Hammer
Thank you for the compliment. I saw you only had 4 post and was reluctant to post, but I wanted to make the point that you can if you think you can. There are a lot of new folks here that might get the impression that you have to have high quality equipment to get high quality results. I think we tend to overlook the ability of the person operating the tool to find a way to get it done, even with not so hot tools in their hands.
BTW, welcome to the forum. If you haven't figured it out already, I'm Sarge. I think you will find that I don't wait for someone to make a mistake and then nail them as it might have occurred to you when you first read my post. I am a 31 year hobbyist and try to encourage new hobbyist as they are the future of this craft. I have been doing that on a local level for quite a while. I came to the forum about 2 1/2 years ago I think. This computer stuff is a great way to communicate ideas rapidly.
If you have been lurking before you posted, you are probably aware there are some that abuse congeniality. We all have "Prozac Moments", so don't take it personal if you run into that situation. Forest Girl will come rescue you. You can count on her help. She's going to kill me if she reads this. And she doesn't miss much. ha..ha..
Regards...
sarge..jt
Tom: Not to answer for Frenchy, but he didn't specifically mention a problem (although he did call it a turkey). As I mentioned, I did have a runout problem and Delta happily replaced the arbor. While I am surprised you had a problem with your Delta, these things happen occasionally. I like Delta because if and whenever they do occur, you can call the 800 # and they will help out gladly and quickly.
Not sure what the problem was with your TS, but if you called them, I would bet dollars to donuts that you would get it resolved - even if that meant replacing a fair amount of the saw.
Robbie
Buzzsaw you need to determine how serious you are going to be about woodworking, before you can decide how much to spend on tools/machines.
There are craftsman who can do the finest work imaginable with nothing more than a hammer and a hand saw. Most beginning woodworkers are not blessed with that ability.
Having progressed though the ranks of developing woodworkers my advice is to buy more than you want or need right now. I have wasted thousands of dollars upgading from what I thought I could afford to what I wanted. Bite the bullet and do it right the first time.
A General, Delta etc cabinet saw is your best bet, new or used these are the best saws you can get. It is impossible to wearout one of these saws so a used one would not be a bad idea.
Grizzly offers an off shore alternative for less money. A cabinet saw is your best bet in any case(more power, more accurate, less vibration)
If you're are not that serious, a Delta/others contractor saw would be a good bet. With a 1.5 H.P. motor you would be in good shape
P.S I've had a General for 17 years and it has been flawless
Makita, makita, makita..........can't go wrong. Durable, lightweight. Had mine for ten years, and still going strong after daily abuse. the ten inch TS is grand too. After you buy either uded or new but a rouseau stand to go with it and you will never regret it. NEVER. Rousseau, can be found along with the makita at Amazon/Toolcrib.
Check Ebay and look for a Delta contractors saw. Tonight a very nice one went for $385, list would be $600. I have a new (still in box) Jet JTS-10DD 10" I will list on Ebay for $300. I also have an older 12" Craftsman 3 HP 220V - works very well selling for $250. The freight cost must be considered with any ebay purchase. Its best if you can pick it up.
if your interested in either saw- I'll send pictures, and I'm located in Richmond VA.
Email me @ [email protected]
Good luck
Bill,
I think I've decided in the short-term to get my Dad's old table saw from my brother who is not using it. I think that might be the best way to go for the time being until I do more research...
Thanks,
Buzzsaw
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