Replies

1. 
   kevin_almeyda | Jul 31, 2019 02:07am | #1

   Consider using Osmo Polyx hard wax oil. Wipe it on, wipe it off, repeat. Easy to repair as you can do spot repairs without having to refinish the whole top.

2. 
   ThatThereTim | Aug 01, 2019 05:21pm | #2

   After doing a ton of research for the last few days (and asking a lot of forums/reddit/twitter/discord servers etc) I've come down to:

   Polyurethane varnish + mineral spirits 50/50 mix, use a lint free cloth to wipe it on, watch for any spots that soak it up, 12hrs to dry per coat, sand out any dusty bits, give it 4-6 coats = jobs done.

   Ok, so I'm thinking:

   Rustin's Satin Clear Varnish: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Rustins-POGC250-250ml-Gloss-Varnish/dp/B001GU2ETS/ref=sr_1_14?crid=VXB15O6TEE43&keywords=polyurethane%2Bvarnish&qid=1564673232&s=gateway&sprefix=polyurethane%2B%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-14&th=1

   Mineral Spirits: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Pebeo-Odourless-Mineral-Spirit-Transparent/dp/B00IHZP1AY/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2I2TY5ZVDAT3C&keywords=mineral+spirits+for+wood&qid=1564677353&s=gateway&sprefix=mineral+spirits+for%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-1

   Bucket to mix it in: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/litre-paint-kettle-lids-PACK/dp/B01DCB9CYS/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=mixing+pot&qid=1564677401&s=gateway&sr=8-7

   Rustin's Lint Free cloths to wipe it on: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Rustins-Lint-Free-Cloths-198686/dp/B00R36LM4M/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=202L4HMBJKE4M&keywords=lint+free+cloth&qid=1564677373&s=gateway&sprefix=lint+free%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

   And some sandpaper and sanding block...

   https://smile.amazon.co.uk/3000-Assorted-Grit-Sandpaper-36-Sheet/dp/B06XB674VK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1H9DOHA374RBO&keywords=600+sandpaper&qid=1564677768&s=gateway&sprefix=600+sand%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

   https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-282641-Cork-Sanding-Block/dp/B0015NSTUY/ref=pd_sbs_201_1/260-0962053-5107054?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0015NSTUY&pd_rd_r=95e78c42-c659-464a-8bda-6d32e0ec2279&pd_rd_w=WK8xE&pd_rd_wg=STl3b&pf_rd_p=7f9048ad-9bda-4493-8578-13e4eff8da65&pf_rd_r=RKWN3ZDNX96G6FHZS4N5&psc=1&refRID=RKWN3ZDNX96G6FHZS4N5

   ...does that sound about right?

   Will I need gloves and masks and stuff?

3. 
   mikaol | Jan 28, 2020 07:30pm | #3

   I only work with oils but make my own tabletops. Oils are intended to penetrate into the wood and my understanding is manufactured tabletops aren't meant for penetrating oils.
   Have you considered urethane or polycrylic. With a little light sanding to break the glaze of the tabletop, they might work because they aren't designed to penetrate
   Boiled linseed oil (BLO) is a personal preference. I have a pine cabinet coated with it from my experimental days and haven't noticed crystallization in 8 years.
   Best of luck whatever you choose,
   Mikaol

4. 
   rob_ss | Jan 29, 2020 02:19am | #4

   Whilst you Can use what you have, I would use a water based polyurethane and apply it with an artificial fibre brush.
   It is harder than the oil based, will resist almost any reasonable use, dries in an hour (2 to recoat) and is a water-cleanup.
   Thin the first coat 10% with water then sand with 180 grit.
   Light de-nib with 240 between coats. You'll have the desk ready to use before the first coat of oil based stuff has dried.

   Unlike the oil-based poly, this never becomes sticky and never changes colour. It will not tolerate a puddle of water on it overnight though.
   It is also a lot harder so does not scratch so easily.
   You will almost certainly manage a deeper, more syrupy shine with the oil based product if that is what you desire. It's also way easier to spray oil products as they don't dry on their way to the surface you are spraying.

   TBH, I can't see the point of BLO and other oil finishes. I only use oil on outdoor furniture and food grade products. Life is hard enough and polyurethane makes it way easier year after year.

5. 
   lat_axe | Jan 29, 2020 06:45am | #5

   Any varnish (hard skin-coat) finish is difficult to repair well when it inevitably gets damaged by water, scratches and so forth. Oil finishes are far easier as you can lightly sand any damaged area then apply the oil finish to that area. It shows as a lighter patch where sanded at first but will blend in as the wood underneath changes colour to match the unsanded/repaired area around it over time.

   As another noted up-thread, Osmo polywax (a mix of oils and waxes) is very tough too - tougher than most oil finishes. It resists spillages particularly well. I have oak kitchen worktops & splashbacks with 5 coats of the stuff and it is very resistant to not just water but many other kitchen liquids and gunks splashed on it. When there is some damage (such as a scratch or scuff) it repairs just like other oil finishes, as described above.

   When I first began woodworking, some decades ago now, I made the mistake of using varnishes. Every item had to eventually be stripped of the stuff and refinished, as the varnish flaked, discoloured and so forth. Patching it to invisibility is near impossible.

   Lataxe

6. 
   bilyo | Jan 31, 2020 08:43pm | #6

   Easiest and very durable is to sand wood through 180-220 grit. Blow and/or vacuum all the dust. Apply 2-3 coats of oil based polyurethane with light sanding w/ 220 grit in between coats. Let it cure 2-3 days and use it.
   Water based polyurethane is a little easier to use and dries faster but, will not bring out the color of the wood. If you want to use water based poly, I would start with a coat of danish oil. Let it dry for a day or two and then apply one coat of Seal Coat (dewaxed shellac). Let it dry 24 hours and apply 2-3 coats of water based poly sanding lightly in between coats. Done