Replies

1. 
   dukeone | Aug 29, 2005 11:15am | #1

   Just another newbe here but did you plane it down from both sides? Taking material off of only one side can cause problems. Good luck. KDM

   Kenneth Duke Masters
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   December 15 1791
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2. 
   BenM | Aug 29, 2005 03:32pm | #2

   After you have milled the individual pieces let them sit around in your shop for several days.  Store them horizontally, flat and with stickers between them.  If they want to move to acclimate to EMC they will do so in those first days.  Then you can re-mill them straight and glue up.

3. 
   baldmountain | Aug 29, 2005 03:40pm | #3

   This is going to be the blind leading the blind. Another newbie here.

   I would guess that the boards are expanding in different relations to each other. Most likely because of the wood's reaction and absorbtion of glue. (Different for the different kinds of wood.) Because they are reacting differently the final glued board is twinsting in odd ways.

   If you want to learn to join different kinds of woods you may want to get a book like: "Understanding Wood: A Craftsman's Guide to Wood Technology" Here is a link to amazon.com:

   http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1561583588

   I don't have this book, and have not read it, but it looks like a good one on the topic of wood properties. It's in my wish list and I will be getting it eventually.

   I guess this is why they make cutting boards out of just one wood. Since it is a cutting board it is going to be getting wet and drying so the wood is likely to move a LOT. You may want to abandon the idea of a cutting board with 3 different woods. Or just use a different wood as an accent around the outside. (A thin edge.)

4. 
   Ricks503 | Aug 29, 2005 04:06pm | #4

   Again, after assembly, did you let it sit for 1-2 days before planing? Did you plane both sides in equal increments? both of those can have effects that would cause warping.  Multiple woods can make a pretty cutting board, but if you look at professional boards, they are going to be solid maple.  If you insist on using differant wood species, do some research on the expansion/contraction properties of each species to be used and only use woods that are very close.  Maple and walnut are the 2 that are most used together in cutting boards. Also, stay away from woods with large pores - they can trap and harbor bacteria.

   Finally finish only with mineral oil.  (some people will use a mineral oil & paraffin mix. - personal prefeance)

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
1. 
   m3 | Aug 31, 2005 04:45am | #5

   Thank you for the advice, I believe at this point in my path, I will stick with the Hard Maple, maybe later when wood and I are better friends we will try something different.  Thanks.

   Marshall

1. 
   Glaucon | Aug 31, 2005 06:14am | #6

   I'd agree with using a single wood, but you should also heed the milling advice above:  after jointing the wood, mill it on either face from 4/4 to 7/8.  Sticker the wood for 3-5 days, then do the final milling to 3/4.  The wood will be more dimensionally stable if you do so.  You're asking a lot of wood that will frequently be in a wet environment.Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

1. 
   m3 | Aug 31, 2005 01:37pm | #7

   Thanks

   Marshall

    

5. 
   Malcolm | Aug 31, 2005 02:18pm | #8

   Think about breadboard ends. I did a couple of Christmas presents from single wide boards last year and used BB ends. They've stayed real flat, in spite of heat, cold, wet and dry!

   Malcolm

   http://www.macpherson.co.nz